ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 You'se guys are doing great! If he's running a GM 1-wire wouldn't the easiest fix be a 3G? We shouldn't assume that the shunt/ammeter has been bypassed, but hopefully it has. Adam - Have you noticed the ammeter move, either positive or negative? Yep 3G. Get the wiring *and* the fuse/holder assembly off the relay box on the driver's side. Tap the adjuster ear 3/8"-16 NC. Hammer the existing adjuster arm a little flatter so it lines up with the 3G. Splice the lt. green/yellow exciter wire to key on power. Loop the yellow to the output stud with a ring terminal. Make the charge cable fit somehow, with copper lugs torched on. Tell me if I missed something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Yep 3G. Get the wiring *and* the fuse/holder assembly off the relay box on the driver's side. Tap the adjuster ear 3/8"-16 NC. Hammer the existing adjuster arm a little flatter so it lines up with the 3G. Splice the lt. green/yellow exciter wire to key on power. Loop the yellow to the output stud with a ring terminal. Make the charge cable fit somehow, with copper lugs torched on. Tell me if I missed something... I think you have it all, Jim. But, just in case here's the 3G page: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 I think you have it all, Jim. But, just in case here's the 3G page: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html Yes, I looked at your instructions and even mentioned them earlier. So... Swap the pulley, with shim. Bill says get the right pivot bolt (and spacer) instead of the janky stud that's there. I'm thinking may be better/cheaper for Adam to get a 3G retrofit regulator pigtail (eBay, 119851 under/around $10) than buy crimpers, terminal set and that pricey little stator plug.... which also fits a compressor clutch. -you know the one- Then he only needs to connect green to key on power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 You'se guys are doing great! If he's running a GM 1-wire wouldn't the easiest fix be a 3G? We shouldn't assume that the shunt/ammeter has been bypassed, but hopefully it has. Adam - Have you noticed the ammeter move, either positive or negative? BTW, not to be pedantic, I noticed your tutorial says 8.125" mounting, but it is 8.25" as shown in Ryan's pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86-350-460-dually Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 I think you have it all, Jim. But, just in case here's the 3G page: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html Holy smokes! Haha. Sounds like I have some work to do? I understand Gary's tutorial fairly well, the two things that I'm not understanding is the janky stud (what do you mean by that?) And can you explain what you mean by the fuse box connector thingy? I'm not quite understanding that. Also, Gary, you asked about my ammeter? I assume that's the D&G meter in the dash? No, mine does not work one bit. Here's a pic of what I have, it's out of focus and I can get another if you need a clearer picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Holy smokes! Haha. Sounds like I have some work to do? I understand Gary's tutorial fairly well, the two things that I'm not understanding is the janky stud (what do you mean by that?) And can you explain what you mean by the fuse box connector thingy? I'm not quite understanding that. Also, Gary, you asked about my ammeter? I assume that's the D&G meter in the dash? No, mine does not work one bit. Here's a pic of what I have, it's out of focus and I can get another if you need a clearer picture. In your first picture the alternator is pivoting from a *stud*, with a nut and washer at the front. That needs to be a long bolt. So you can pull it out and swap the alternator. Also notice the free space behind the alternator pivot boss. You can clearly see in the rust of the mounting bracket where there used to be a spacer sleeve that kept the alternator from shifting back on the bolt. When you find a 3.8 liter Taurus you will take all the wiring -back to the power distribution center (box) on the driver's side. The thick charge cable should connect to a fuse similar to what Gary shows. This fuse *should be* in a small box (holder) attached to the front of the PDC. I'm not sure if all model years were set up this way, but I have taken the holder with the fuse and the cable leading into the box. This saves having to buy an aftermarket holder like Gary's picture. Yes, you have an ammeter. Follow Steve's advice and eliminate the big coil of wire up inside the dashboard before you start a fire in the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86-350-460-dually Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Yes, you have an ammeter. Follow Steve's advice and eliminate the big coil of wire up inside the dashboard before you start a fire in the cab. I'm sorry, which one is Steve and I think I missed his suggestion about a coil of wire in the dash...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 ...not needing to remove the shunt to the ammeter.The shunt doesn't really go to the ammeter - it goes to the battery & all the electrical loads. The ammeter is ACROSS the shunt (it reads the voltage developed by current passing through the shunt's resistance, but displays that as an inferred amperage). So regardless of the alternator type (1G, 2G, 3G, 4G, Leece-Neville...), it's a poor circuit design and should be converted ASAP to a low-resistance wire (shorter & without all the connectors) & a true voltmeter. Most especially if you've swapped to a HO alt. This.... The shunt doesn't really go to the ammeter - it goes to the battery & all the electrical loads. The ammeter is ACROSS the shunt (it reads the voltage developed by current passing through the shunt's resistance, but displays that as an inferred amperage). So regardless of the alternator type (1G, 2G, 3G, 4G, Leece-Neville...), it's a poor circuit design and should be converted ASAP to a low-resistance wire (shorter & without all the connectors) & a true voltmeter. Most especially if you've swapped to a HO alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86-350-460-dually Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 This.... The shunt doesn't really go to the ammeter - it goes to the battery & all the electrical loads. The ammeter is ACROSS the shunt (it reads the voltage developed by current passing through the shunt's resistance, but displays that as an inferred amperage). So regardless of the alternator type (1G, 2G, 3G, 4G, Leece-Neville...), it's a poor circuit design and should be converted ASAP to a low-resistance wire (shorter & without all the connectors) & a true voltmeter. Most especially if you've swapped to a HO alt. Ah! Sorry, I did read that. Thanks. I'll have to look into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 I agree that the shunt needs to be removed if you go to a high-output alternator...I'm saying the alternator doesn't matter, period. I advise everyone to re-wire the charge circuit like a stock 3G's for better performance, more safety, and more functionality - even with a stock 40A alt. And this.....I'm saying the alternator doesn't matter, period. I advise everyone to re-wire the charge circuit like a stock 3G's for better performance, more safety, and more functionality - even with a stock 40A alt. It's not a joke when you have a resistance wire glowing red hot up inside the dash where you can't get at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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