Duraspark Conversion Fail

[Gary Lewis]

Yes the yellow wire goes straight to the coil horseshoe so I will hook that up. Currently I don't have a tach but I have a whole gauge cluster from eBay with a tack and trip odometer. I bought the blue LEDs you put in your truck, so I should be able to see it now. I do have a question on were I mounted the coil. I used the same bolt that the TFI was on but its right up against the plug wire boot. So should I move it to another location and would it make a difference if it is horizontal or vertical? AND on the TFI the plug gap is 44-46 will that be the same on the DS2? Thanks for the help…

The connector is plastic so it shouldn't be a problem up against the boot. Looks like you are good to go.

[844rd]

The connector is plastic so it shouldn't be a problem up against the boot. Looks like you are good to go.

Thanks for all the help!! I'm getting ready to fire it back up and take it down the road once I get it dialed in I will clean up the wires a little better and move on to the next thing, hopefully wont be so frustrating.

[1986F150Six]

Thanks for all the help!! I'm getting ready to fire it back up and take it down the road once I get it dialed in I will clean up the wires a little better and move on to the next thing, hopefully wont be so frustrating.

Take a 1/2" wrench with you. If you detect pinging, simply loosen the distributor hold down bolt and slightly rotate the distributor. Right [clockwise] retards on the 6 banger.

[844rd]

Take a 1/2" wrench with you. If you detect pinging, simply loosen the distributor hold down bolt and slightly rotate the distributor. Right [clockwise] retards on the 6 banger.

Thanks David, I have had in the road and boy it runs better than it has in 20 years!! There is still just a hint of light pinging when under load but I may wait till my starter solenoid comes in neat week to get back on the Hwy.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks David, I have had in the road and boy it runs better than it has in 20 years!! There is still just a hint of light pinging when under load but I may wait till my starter solenoid comes in neat week to get back on the Hwy.

Congrat's!

[FuzzFace2]

Thanks Gary, OK, so I will X the painless resistor and here the Painless pic.

Just trying to wrap my head around this a little.

To get it to run you did not hookup the white wire to anything?

You removed the brown? wire going to the "I" on the starter relay?

You removed the added on resister, hooked the 2 red wires together along with the stock power (resister wire?) wire to the red and all worked?

Trying to follow the Ford wiring picture is crazy. I don't know what they were thinking when they made them, you need like 5 other pages!

What kept the starter from working, was it 2 bad relays?

Dave ----

[844rd]

Thanks Gary, OK, so I will X the painless resistor and here the Painless pic.

Just trying to wrap my head around this a little.

To get it to run you did not hookup the white wire to anything?

You removed the brown? wire going to the "I" on the starter relay?

You removed the added on resister, hooked the 2 red wires together along with the stock power (resister wire?) wire to the red and all worked?

Trying to follow the Ford wiring picture is crazy. I don't know what they were thinking when they made them, you need like 5 other pages!

What kept the starter from working, was it 2 bad relays?

Dave ----

Hi Dave, Let me start what I tried first. I had a 3 point relay so trying to follow the Painless diagram I thought I would just use what I had so I put the white on "S" and brown on the starter side thinking it would do the same thing, activate when the starter is on. After hooking everything up even going through there resistor I hit crank and it turned over but the starter hung but did not crank (found later I was 180 off on the distributor) so first relay fried. I then got a 4 post relay, hooked it all back up hit crank and nothing not even a click. I hooked a meter to the "S" and would get 12.2-4 volts. I thought bad relay exchanged it, same thing. Turns out the brown wire has 7 volts on it with the key on (not start). Gary said I should not need the Painless resistor being I was using the factory hot wire at the plug, which I don't understand how there are 2 wires fused into 1 before the plug, which one is the pink resistor but the EEC IV somehow by-passes it???

Anyway I removed the Painless resistor and tied into that 2 to 1 hot wire, pulled off the brown wire and still nothing on the starter post. I get another relay (no one has a 3 point) so this time I don't hook the brown or the white wires up just to see what would happen, again nothing.Now I'm getting 12.4 volts to the original turn the key to start wire that is hooked to the "S" but nothing on the starter side. I put the meter on the white wire that is coming from the DS2 module but still unhooked and it is somehow getting 12.4 volts feeding back from the module??? Now I get jumper cables and put one end on the battery and hit the other end to the starter side, the truck fires right up and runs?? Must be another bad relay, I get yet another one (wow this makes 3) same thing, the only way to start the truck is to jump the relay? I have now ordered a 3 point relay and if it wont start with that I have know idea what to do. So it runs great with the brown and white unhooked and only the red side of the module has any power but I don't understand why the white wire has 12v coming from the module? I thought you fed it power from the relay? I don't understand how the thing runs and all of that works, I need a dumb down version of fords wiring.

[844rd]

Thanks Gary, OK, so I will X the painless resistor and here the Painless pic.

Just trying to wrap my head around this a little.

To get it to run you did not hookup the white wire to anything?

You removed the brown? wire going to the "I" on the starter relay?

You removed the added on resister, hooked the 2 red wires together along with the stock power (resister wire?) wire to the red and all worked?

Trying to follow the Ford wiring picture is crazy. I don't know what they were thinking when they made them, you need like 5 other pages!

What kept the starter from working, was it 2 bad relays?

Dave ----

The Standard relay is what I've tried 3 different ones and won't work. I even tried with the last one,with it hooked up I used jumper cables to go from battery + to the "S" stud and the relay would not make a sound I had even used new sheet metal screws and drilled through the frame with fresh holes?? Does anyone have and Idea? I have ordered a new Motorcraft just like the other one that hung open, at lest it would engage the starter.

[Gary Lewis]

The Standard relay is what I've tried 3 different ones and won't work. I even tried with the last one,with it hooked up I used jumper cables to go from battery + to the "S" stud and the relay would not make a sound I had even used new sheet metal screws and drilled through the frame with fresh holes?? Does anyone have and Idea? I have ordered a new Motorcraft just like the other one that hung open, at lest it would engage the starter.

It seems like you don't have a ground on the fender. Try running a jumper from the battery's ground to the solenoid's mounting screw. That will bypass the battery/frame/fender ground path, and if you then jumper to the S terminal a good solenoid will pull in.

[844rd]

It seems like you don't have a ground on the fender. Try running a jumper from the battery's ground to the solenoid's mounting screw. That will bypass the battery/frame/fender ground path, and if you then jumper to the S terminal a good solenoid will pull in.

Great idea Gary thank you! Maybe when I remove all the EEC wires it killed a frame ground. I've been banging my head on the thing so much I can't think straight anymore.