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Questions regarding duraspark conversion


eternaltruck

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Carter YF 4901 S

David, can you tell us again where you suggested to buy a rebuild carburetor that tests for shaft play and actually delivers a quality unit? I looked through our emails but I’m not finding the place you mentioned...

Rockauto; the Autoline carburetors. They are remanufactured in Canada and mine came with new bushings.

Ok, I got a response from Tim Meyer and he says he can do a one-wire dizzy for the 300 six. Not that anyone right here is planning to buy one, but he'd like a good pic of a DS-II dizzy for the 300. Anyone have a good pic they want to submit?

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The non-EGR carb spacer is a tough item to find, and was mostly (if not exclusively?) a Canadian thing. It has a little “tongue” that covers the EGR hole on the intake manifold.

An older non-EGR intake manifold can be used, but the stud spacing is closer together. If you want to run a Carter YF series carburetor on it you will have to oval out the holes in the aluminum base plate with a rat tail file. The carb sits directly on the intake manifold (no spacer) on those years:

By far, the vast majority of EGR deletes out there involve some kind of block-off of the EGR port in the intake and/or spacer. You can plug the hole in the intake with an Allen head pipe plug, or cut a thin metal gasket that covers the hole as Gary suggested. However, with this method you still need to leave the pipe from the exhaust and the valve in place or else the spacer will have a huge vacuum leak. On my truck, the previous owner put a pipe plugs in the exhaust manifold and EGR spacer, and fabricated an aluminum block off plate to bolt on in place of the EGR valve:

Mr.Ford F834,

Do you remember the size of the plug used on the exhaust manifold?

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Mr.Ford F834,

Do you remember the size of the plug used on the exhaust manifold?

Also, thank you all for the pictures posted, and your contributions to the thread.

If I found a F series truck in the junkyard prior to the EGR being added, would the non egr spacer work from it? The junk yard I pay tribute to is quite massive in size, over 100+ acres, so I feel like I might have a better shot than others.

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Ok, I got a response from Tim Meyer and he says he can do a one-wire dizzy for the 300 six. Not that anyone right here is planning to buy one, but he'd like a good pic of a DS-II dizzy for the 300. Anyone have a good pic they want to submit?

Here is a link to a NOS one on eBay with multiple photos from different angles:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Motorcraft-DA-1925-Distributor-1983-4-9L-300-I6-ONLY-Ford-E3UZ-12127-G/182341717137?hash=item2a7469cc91:g:24cAAOSw4GVYG14G:rk:3:pf:0

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Ok, I got a response from Tim Meyer and he says he can do a one-wire dizzy for the 300 six. Not that anyone right here is planning to buy one, but he'd like a good pic of a DS-II dizzy for the 300. Anyone have a good pic they want to submit?

Here is a link to a NOS one on eBay with multiple photos from different angles:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Motorcraft-DA-1925-Distributor-1983-4-9L-300-I6-ONLY-Ford-E3UZ-12127-G/182341717137?hash=item2a7469cc91:g:24cAAOSw4GVYG14G:rk:3:pf:0

To add to this thread on blocking the EGR port I did it in the intake using a freeze plug and left the EGR plate & valve in place. This way if anyone wants to look if in place it is (less vacuum hose).

20170128_103552.jpg.9b8a1c3f5752a628b0adfd932267e778.jpg

20170201_174106.jpg.60c85ff01cd7c4f9f15483c67af7d18c.jpg

I am running EFI exh manifolds and used a pipe plug screwed into the hole left when I removed the tube.

20170128_174004.jpg.38be06bd724699571b21ab10dd21392c.jpg

Mine is an 81 F100 w/300 six so non-feed back system to start with.

Dave ----

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Mr.Ford F834,

Do you remember the size of the plug used on the exhaust manifold?

I will see if I can measure it. Mine was done by the previous owner, and the one I plugged before that was about 22 years ago on my ‘66 truck build and my memory isn’t ~that good 🤪

Regarding the non-EGR spacer, just be sure to measure the distance between studs for the carb. Usually if you go old enough to not have EGR, it will be the closer together studs and no spacer. The wider spacing for the carter YFA carb kind of went hand in hand with the introduction of EGR, so only a few applications got the special spacer to block off the hole. You might get lucky, but it isn’t that hard to work around if you don’t.

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Since David is not usually online on the weekends... I will relay what he told me via email.

On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order.

Regarding the Duraspark II conversion itself, most of the write ups are for upgrading an older points style ignition to electronic ignition... (not retro converting a feedback system), but the wiring is going to be the same. You may find this link helpful. (Note, it says V8 engines, but everything is the same for a I6 except the distributor):

http://www.suddenlink.net/pages/jonknapek/fordv8/duraspark.html

As you can see here the system is pretty well self contained:

https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor-Cylinder-1975-1982-D5TZ9510AG/dp/B076BWL7T9/ref=asc_df_B076BWL7T9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241994092016&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1862179647718690087&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023282&hvtargid=pla-466719355908&psc=1

will this carb work with deleting smog pump from late 85/ early 86?

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Kyle - Do you know anything about that carb? Did you buy one?

I ask because it is hard to believe it could cover all the years and applications properly. Supposedly it works on a 240 to a 300 w/o rejetting? One reviewer said it worked well on his 240, but another said it had a "funny spot" when accelerating, which would probably indicate it is lean then. And that would be expected if it was right for a 240 and used on a 300.

But, I'm intrigued by the statement at the bottom:

Notice:

The oil channels of carburetors will be blocked without cleaning.

Please clean up the oil channels and air filters as well as use the clean fuel before installing the carburetors.

:nabble_anim_confused:

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will this carb work with deleting smog pump from late 85/ early 86?

The carb itself does not really have anything to do with the EGR system. *Except calibration. That is why David ordered one for a 1970 F350. Because that year and gvwr was exempt from the emissions requirement of having EGR and the carb would have been tuned accordingly. I would agree with Gary that since they claim this carb is for 240,250,300 CID engines from ‘75-‘82 that the calibration is generic at best. It will fit and work, but it may not give you optimal performance. I’ve run some Carter YF’s from 300’s on my 240 when I had it and had no issues. I’ve run a few junkyard take-off’s on my 300 and it does okay but it would probably do better if I had a properly rebuilt and calibrated unit. It might be a few bucks more, but I’d look into the company that David suggested through rock auto. Most “rebuilt” carbs are actually worn out and the chem clean and carb kit that they put in doesn’t cut it. The Autoline place David got his from rebushes the shafts and brings it back into spec.

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