ArdWrknTrk Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 yes the new smog pump is working and turning, where the hose comes off the valve and into the carb its all rubber and split badly, lots of warm air coming out of the hole. Your signature shows on my phone. The Air Injection Reaction system is crucial to emissions whether carb or EFI. Added oxygen helps ignite unburnt fuel (CO) in the exhaust manifolds and to get the catalytic converter up to temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 would this make me run rich and be the cause of my failed DEQ? Can I buy a roll of some sized vacuum line and replace most of them myself or do you have to buy it piece by piece? This piece of tubing looks bigger of course but most of them are all pencil sized and sat for 15 years. http://www.rockauto.com/info/48/CX1378-FRO__ra_p.jpg Motorcraft CX1378 @ Rock Auto It would be very wise to replace all rubber and plastic vacuum hoses. It is not uncommon for these trucks to be found with at least some or all original tubing [31-37 years old!]. The hoses crack or come loose or people try to bypass things and put screws in the cut tubing. Look for unused vacuum ports on the intake manifold and firewall on the passenger side. These ports should have a rubber cap, which can crack or fall off.Without the system being complete [like designed], the computer cannot make the correct adjustments. If any part of the emission system is not complete, most times, the computer will go into what is referred as the "safe" mode. When this happens, the ignition timing is locked @ static [normally 10 degrees BTDC] and the carburetor is set to its richest setting. On the intake manifold, there is a vacuum "tree" which has about 6 (?) ports. There is one unused one hidden at the very back, near the engine block, pointing toward the cab. It is very hard to see due to all the vacuum lines running in that area. It is nearest the exhaust manifold, so is exposed to a lot of heat. It [rubber cap] dries out and cracks and creates a vacuum leak. It is difficult to find using typical brake cleaner spraying for leaks and you cannot hear the leak due to the proximity to the exhaust. Is your idle speed higher than desired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 http://www.rockauto.com/info/48/CX1378-FRO__ra_p.jpg Motorcraft CX1378 @ Rock Auto It would be very wise to replace all rubber and plastic vacuum hoses. It is not uncommon for these trucks to be found with at least some or all original tubing [31-37 years old!]. The hoses crack or come loose or people try to bypass things and put screws in the cut tubing. Look for unused vacuum ports on the intake manifold and firewall on the passenger side. These ports should have a rubber cap, which can crack or fall off.Without the system being complete [like designed], the computer cannot make the correct adjustments. If any part of the emission system is not complete, most times, the computer will go into what is referred as the "safe" mode. When this happens, the ignition timing is locked @ static [normally 10 degrees BTDC] and the carburetor is set to its richest setting. On the intake manifold, there is a vacuum "tree" which has about 6 (?) ports. There is one unused one hidden at the very back, near the engine block, pointing toward the cab. It is very hard to see due to all the vacuum lines running in that area. It is nearest the exhaust manifold, so is exposed to a lot of heat. It [rubber cap] dries out and cracks and creates a vacuum leak. It is difficult to find using typical brake cleaner spraying for leaks and you cannot hear the leak due to the proximity to the exhaust. Is your idle speed higher than desired? I think it idles well. Now with a proper exhaust at least I can hear the motor lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 would this make me run rich and be the cause of my failed DEQ? Can I buy a roll of some sized vacuum line and replace most of them myself or do you have to buy it piece by piece? This piece of tubing looks bigger of course but most of them are all pencil sized and sat for 15 years. Just use a piece of heater hose for the Thermactor line. If it has any tight or unusual bends you can probably find a molded hose for some other application that will fit with a little trimming. Bring the old one in to the store with you. ... It isn't doing anything for your truck right now anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Just use a piece of heater hose for the Thermactor line. If it has any tight or unusual bends you can probably find a molded hose for some other application that will fit with a little trimming. Bring the old one in to the store with you. ... It isn't doing anything for your truck right now anyhow. would it be worthwhile to fix and run it back down the hill to test? Could this be doubling my actual count? In other words could a large gaping hole in this hose cause me to fail and the results posted above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 would it be worthwhile to fix and run it back down the hill to test? Could this be doubling my actual count? In other words could a large gaping hole in this hose cause me to fail and the results posted above? Anything that is not working in the system could cause your issues.That is what a "system" is all about. Understand . . you have a carburetor, but the power system of the carburetor is controlled by the ECU. Really, its a lousy system. But . . I digress. A carburetor have 6 systems that are used to make your engine run under different situations. A carb can't do each of those things perfectly, but tries to be close with all of them. That is where EFI is immensely better. When you accelerate you cause the carb to react and engage it's power system. That is done by one of two ways. carbs with feedback systems use a rod that is lifted out of the jet. When the rod lifts, more fuel can leave. By using a throttle position sensor, a temp sensor, an oxygen sensor and such, your ECU tries to determine how much extra fuel you need. Then a solenoid at the carb lifts the metering rod to allow more to enter the air stream. There's more going on, but this is the short version. Of all the sensors involved, the oxygen sensor is the one that needs to be replaced often as it degrades from use. The other sensors will work or not work, the O2 will degrade. That means it can give an inaccurate signal. Most people do not realize this, but an O2 sensor should be considered art of a tune up and replaced often. You should fix al your vacuum lines and hoses for sure, then get a new O2 sensor, it will only help and will never hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Anything that is not working in the system could cause your issues.That is what a "system" is all about. Understand . . you have a carburetor, but the power system of the carburetor is controlled by the ECU. Really, its a lousy system. But . . I digress. A carburetor have 6 systems that are used to make your engine run under different situations. A carb can't do each of those things perfectly, but tries to be close with all of them. That is where EFI is immensely better. When you accelerate you cause the carb to react and engage it's power system. That is done by one of two ways. carbs with feedback systems use a rod that is lifted out of the jet. When the rod lifts, more fuel can leave. By using a throttle position sensor, a temp sensor, an oxygen sensor and such, your ECU tries to determine how much extra fuel you need. Then a solenoid at the carb lifts the metering rod to allow more to enter the air stream. There's more going on, but this is the short version. Of all the sensors involved, the oxygen sensor is the one that needs to be replaced often as it degrades from use. The other sensors will work or not work, the O2 will degrade. That means it can give an inaccurate signal. Most people do not realize this, but an O2 sensor should be considered art of a tune up and replaced often. You should fix al your vacuum lines and hoses for sure, then get a new O2 sensor, it will only help and will never hurt. Ok I ran home at lunch to see what I would need to make this "simple repair" UGH!!! The air valve checker thing is junk twisted right off the pipe itself and is hollow except for a piece that looks like it was a spring on a diaphragm maybe at one time? I have no knowledge of a way to get the bolt out of the carb itself, it is a very tight spot and Im not sure which tool to use, a crescent wrench did nothing and had maybe a 1/16th of play to turn if I could have budged it at all which I could not :-(. But dont worry I made sure its broke real good so I have to fix it ugh again! And finally while looking for your missing vacuum lines I noticed a very large line that is ripped or torn and hanging there, I don't see where it could or would have went anywhere close. And a metal port looking thing that comes up from around the manifold area I'm on the left side of the motor and see what I think is the black vacuum line connected to what looks like another check valve down there. big metal one up close thanks for putting up with my question after question I really am trying to learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Ok I ran home at lunch to see what I would need to make this "simple repair" UGH!!! The air valve checker thing is junk twisted right off the pipe itself and is hollow except for a piece that looks like it was a spring on a diaphragm maybe at one time? I have no knowledge of a way to get the bolt out of the carb itself, it is a very tight spot and Im not sure which tool to use, a crescent wrench did nothing and had maybe a 1/16th of play to turn if I could have budged it at all which I could not :-(. But dont worry I made sure its broke real good so I have to fix it ugh again! And finally while looking for your missing vacuum lines I noticed a very large line that is ripped or torn and hanging there, I don't see where it could or would have went anywhere close. And a metal port looking thing that comes up from around the manifold area I'm on the left side of the motor and see what I think is the black vacuum line connected to what looks like another check valve down there. big metal one up close thanks for putting up with my question after question I really am trying to learn Ok, so the A.I.R. check valve is just that. A spring loaded disc that only allows the pump to push air into the exhaust but does not allow exhaust to come out. The big metal outlet allows a flexible aluminum tube to connect the air cleaner. This preheats incoming air in cold weather, eliminating carb icing and warming up the engine quicker. If you have a large line missing it may be the red rubber line to the choke warmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristopherdb Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Ok, so the A.I.R. check valve is just that. A spring loaded disc that only allows the pump to push air into the exhaust but does not allow exhaust to come out. The big metal outlet allows a flexible aluminum tube to connect the air cleaner. This preheats incoming air in cold weather, eliminating carb icing and warming up the engine quicker. If you have a large line missing it may be the red rubber line to the choke warmer. Where does the other end of the aluminum tube go? Any idea what the rubber line is supposed to attach too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Where does the other end of the aluminum tube go? Any idea what the rubber line is supposed to attach too? The air tube directs the air from the pump to the catalytic converter. It passes by the check valve, then down to the converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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