vjsimone Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 When I was in the Army, working on electronics, most of the old tactical systems had their Circuit Boards coated with a clear-ish substance. I had to use a heat gun to soften and peal away the spot on the board where I had to replace a component or make a trace repair. You may want to find/make a Heat Sink to mount this device to.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neoniacin Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 When I was in the Army, working on electronics, most of the old tactical systems had their Circuit Boards coated with a clear-ish substance. I had to use a heat gun to soften and peal away the spot on the board where I had to replace a component or make a trace repair. You may want to find/make a Heat Sink to mount this device to.. How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? Ok guys & girls back about a month or so ago when my son was here and we were bleeding the brakes he pointed out to me the same thing. The module leaked goo out and down the fender liner. Now for all you that say wrong coil, I call bs on and the same if you were to say the key was left on bs. I say this because the truck has not been run other than in & out of the garage, maybe up to temp to test the temp gauge so not vary long run times. The coil has been on that motor before I bought the truck all be it with a different IGN box as this one came on the parts truck inner fender and it ran with a different motor. So I cant see it wrong coil and it never ran long enough. Oh I don't have a hood on the truck so cant trap any engine heat. As for leaving the key on, the battery cable is removed each time the motor is turned off because the head light switch is still pulled out from when I removed the knob and I don't want to install the knob yet as I have other dash work to be done yet. Now I can tell you it gets really hot in the garage. I would say many days it had to be over 100*f with it closed up as I have seen it mid 90's with everything open and a fan going. So I call the heat is why it leaked. I will run it till it stops / gives me issues and then will use the one that came with the truck. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Ok guys & girls back about a month or so ago when my son was here and we were bleeding the brakes he pointed out to me the same thing. The module leaked goo out and down the fender liner. Now for all you that say wrong coil, I call bs on and the same if you were to say the key was left on bs. I say this because the truck has not been run other than in & out of the garage, maybe up to temp to test the temp gauge so not vary long run times. The coil has been on that motor before I bought the truck all be it with a different IGN box as this one came on the parts truck inner fender and it ran with a different motor. So I cant see it wrong coil and it never ran long enough. Oh I don't have a hood on the truck so cant trap any engine heat. As for leaving the key on, the battery cable is removed each time the motor is turned off because the head light switch is still pulled out from when I removed the knob and I don't want to install the knob yet as I have other dash work to be done yet. Now I can tell you it gets really hot in the garage. I would say many days it had to be over 100*f with it closed up as I have seen it mid 90's with everything open and a fan going. So I call the heat is why it leaked. I will run it till it stops / gives me issues and then will use the one that came with the truck. Dave ---- I think the modules "run" from heat, but that heat can come from different sources. In David's case it came from too much current due to the wrong coil being used. But in my case, which is similar to yours, it appears to be a hot environment. The attic to my shop never gets over 100 degrees, but the module sure ran while up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotEnoughTrucks Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 When I was in the Army, working on electronics, most of the old tactical systems had their Circuit Boards coated with a clear-ish substance. I had to use a heat gun to soften and peal away the spot on the board where I had to replace a component or make a trace repair. You may want to find/make a Heat Sink to mount this device to.. Vinny, now that you mention it, I too recall that coating on circuit boards. It was called conformal coating if I recall correctly and the purpose was environmental protection. It is quite a bit different from what modules were sealed up with, which was some type of epoxy and was referred to as potting compound. I suppose one could use enough of the conformal coating to fill a box, but I recall it being used primarily on SMD boards and it came in a spray can. My experience was primarily in radio communications. Way back, there was also a paintable type of product called Glyptol. I recall using that on high power AM/FM commercial broadcast equipment back in the 70's. Anyways, I still was surprised to see the bottom of that module. Clearly, the compound did break down, liquefy and reharden on the inner fender. I agree with Dave that the ignition coil was not the culprit here. The very nature of what the ignition module has to do will generate heat. That is why I am surprised that the manufacturer of the ignition module would use a compound that would melt. Looks to be an original piece as well, so I can't even say they don't make 'em like they used to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 I think the modules "run" from heat, but that heat can come from different sources. In David's case it came from too much current due to the wrong coil being used. But in my case, which is similar to yours, it appears to be a hot environment. The attic to my shop never gets over 100 degrees, but the module sure ran while up there. I forgot to say the other box I will use if / when the leaky one fails has been outside on the fender and it has not leaked. I cant remember if either one is a true MC unit or aftermarket but am sure both have the blue retainer. I will have to check that out next time out in the garage. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 I think the modules "run" from heat, but that heat can come from different sources. In David's case it came from too much current due to the wrong coil being used. But in my case, which is similar to yours, it appears to be a hot environment. The attic to my shop never gets over 100 degrees, but the module sure ran while up there. Gary, I don’t know what the melting point of that resin is, but it can’t be ~too sensitive. I took my ‘81 to BHC this August and the ambient temp was 122*F, plus whatever the engine bay and coil current added. I am really wondering if there are electrical components inside that leak a chemical that interacts with the resin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Gary, I don’t know what the melting point of that resin is, but it can’t be ~too sensitive. I took my ‘81 to BHC this August and the ambient temp was 122*F, plus whatever the engine bay and coil current added. I am really wondering if there are electrical components inside that leak a chemical that interacts with the resin? There are probably electrolytic capacitors in there, and their fluid is very caustic and might cause the epoxy to melt. Years ago I had an inverter that took DC from a set of batteries and turned it into AC for the computers. It had 3 large electrolytic caps, each about the size of a 2 liter Coke bottle. The center one blew and took out the other two. Everything inside the cabinet, which was the size of a large refrigerator, was ruined - and the paint ran down the sides of the cabinet like paint thinner had been sprayed on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vjsimone Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 How is the module mounted? Would it be beneficial if I allowed more air flow underneath it? https://www.ebay.com/p/300x140x20mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-Heatsink-for-High-Power-LED-Amplifier-Transistor/23003357190?iid=292239720229&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D8a9cf6ad755d4d75be3f1f2dab17899f%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D263586792036%26itm%3D292239720229&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109 Or, tap into your A/C system; http://www.tran-tec.com/liquid-cooled-heat-sinks.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Gary, I don’t know what the melting point of that resin is, but it can’t be ~too sensitive. I took my ‘81 to BHC this August and the ambient temp was 122*F, plus whatever the engine bay and coil current added. I am really wondering if there are electrical components inside that leak a chemical that interacts with the resin? A quick Google search shows that Duraspark module melting issue has come up before. There's a picture at the bottom of this thread with the same green goo, as well as others saying they've melted them. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1221215-any-tips-preventing-a-melted-duraspark-ignition-module-2.html Bronco's... http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241854 Mustangs... http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?124077-5-0-ignition-control-module-epoxy-melting Interesting in the thread below the second comment regarding the voltage. https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/garage/462483-why-do-i-keep-burning-out-ignition-box.html This all reminds me that I need to clean up the spare 86 DSII box I purchased and throw it behind the seat for a spare...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts