Rembrant Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Cory, I struggled with deciding on LED vs original incandescent, and in going with the former, couldn't be more pleased. The current draw is much lower, the lights much brighter (the reverse lights are so good I can navigate from the rear view after the sun goes down), and the Grotes are so well potted, I don't think vibration will ever be a cause for failure. On the down side, at the time I shopped, Grote's Ford connectors were only offered on their incandescent model. Also, their wire color scheme was different for the LED's. Neither was an issue for me as I had to untangle and re-loom a mess for a trailer hack the PO had made. There's a thread entry somewhere on here with those details. Also, you lose some of the "warmth" of the fade in the on-off signal cycle with a no-load relay in the fuse panel. There are solutions for that, though too, with some no-load signal relays now for LED's that emulate the warm-fade incandescent cycle (or even offer a custom flash pattern). You'll need to replace the hazard relay, too if you go with an LED option. For the collective wisdom, the Grote (OEM manufacturer) LED options are: Grote G5212 Hi Count LED Box Lamp (Left side with license light) Grote G5202 Hi Count LED Box Lamp I've got a funny video of one one of my girls helping me secure the ground as the initial operations gave some unexpected results. (Both have the DOT-required side markers) Thank you for this information Dyn! Great stuff. I'll admit that tail light replacements are pretty low on my priority list right now, but I have been eyeing up the LED ones (in my mental wish list). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 Hi there, I went down this rabbit hole last year, and although I ended up going with some Grote LED's (non-Ford-specific connectors), I recorded most the info as I was comparing and contrasting. Whatever you decide on, you're on the right track by getting part numbers, which will allow you to verify and compare offerings. I found quite a range in prices between LMC, NPD, Grote direct, Granger and Amazon. I'll dig a little and see if I can find my notes. (Edit) I haven't looked for my notes yet, but I went to Shelf-o-Parts and realized I still have the original Grote pod with Ford's stamp on the back. No Ford part number, but it's Grote Model 5096, and although it's marked "RH" for right-hand, they are interchangeable, and it has a side marker and no license light. If you want it, it's yours for the cost of shipping. Fair warning, the leads are clipped close to the housing, but that's a pretty easy fix. There's a small nick out of the side marker (but no white light leakage), the lens is intact, and the housing is in good shape, if a bit of a patina from 35 years on the truck. Thanks Dyn! I'll message you to work out the details, I'll take what I can find haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 Cory, I struggled with deciding on LED vs original incandescent, and in going with the former, couldn't be more pleased. The current draw is much lower, the lights much brighter (the reverse lights are so good I can navigate from the rear view after the sun goes down), and the Grotes are so well potted, I don't think vibration will ever be a cause for failure. On the down side, at the time I shopped, Grote's Ford connectors were only offered on their incandescent model. Also, their wire color scheme was different for the LED's. Neither was an issue for me as I had to untangle and re-loom a mess for a trailer hack the PO had made. There's a thread entry somewhere on here with those details. Also, you lose some of the "warmth" of the fade in the on-off signal cycle with a no-load relay in the fuse panel. There are solutions for that, though too, with some no-load signal relays now for LED's that emulate the warm-fade incandescent cycle (or even offer a custom flash pattern). You'll need to replace the hazard relay, too if you go with an LED option. For the collective wisdom, the Grote (OEM manufacturer) LED options are: Grote G5212 Hi Count LED Box Lamp (Left side with license light) Grote G5202 Hi Count LED Box Lamp I've got a funny video of one one of my girls helping me secure the ground as the initial operations gave some unexpected results. (Both have the DOT-required side markers) Thank you for this information Dyn! Great stuff. I'll admit that tail light replacements are pretty low on my priority list right now, but I have been eyeing up the LED ones (in my mental wish list). Thanks to both of you! Thanks for the pictures too, Rembrandt. Super helpful. There's lots of conflicting pictures and parts out there that say they are the real deal but aren't, so it's hard after awhile to know what's what. I'll start with Dyn's offer and post when I have an update. It's great that everyone helps each other out on this board, I for one appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Thanks to both of you! Thanks for the pictures too, Rembrandt. Super helpful. There's lots of conflicting pictures and parts out there that say they are the real deal but aren't, so it's hard after awhile to know what's what. I'll start with Dyn's offer and post when I have an update. It's great that everyone helps each other out on this board, I for one appreciate it! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Ford+chassis+cab+tail+lights+NOS&_sacat=6028 All seem to be the same with clear plastic on the bottom. Instead of using black tape, as mentioned earlier, what about painting [either inside over the clear area or a uniform coating on the outside]? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 Thanks to both of you! Thanks for the pictures too, Rembrandt. Super helpful. There's lots of conflicting pictures and parts out there that say they are the real deal but aren't, so it's hard after awhile to know what's what. I'll start with Dyn's offer and post when I have an update. It's great that everyone helps each other out on this board, I for one appreciate it! Can any of you experts out there point me in the right direction to buy new pigtails from the lamp assembly to the connectors underneath the truck? It looks like it is fairly easy to put a new lamp socket and pigtail into an existing lamp assembly. I think I'm still adjusting being back to work after the Thanksgiving weekend, but most of the sockets I seem to be finding on the net don't seem to take the backup light socket into account as well. I just may be mis-remembering though, as I don't have the parts with me at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Can any of you experts out there point me in the right direction to buy new pigtails from the lamp assembly to the connectors underneath the truck? It looks like it is fairly easy to put a new lamp socket and pigtail into an existing lamp assembly. I think I'm still adjusting being back to work after the Thanksgiving weekend, but most of the sockets I seem to be finding on the net don't seem to take the backup light socket into account as well. I just may be mis-remembering though, as I don't have the parts with me at the moment. I replaced the lights on my '82 Flareside. As far as the clear lens on the bottom . . just paint it. The hardest part is the wiring and where it exits the light. I was able to work around it, but that was the trickiest part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 28, 2018 Author Share Posted November 28, 2018 I replaced the lights on my '82 Flareside. As far as the clear lens on the bottom . . just paint it. The hardest part is the wiring and where it exits the light. I was able to work around it, but that was the trickiest part. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I've found two original assemblies, but the wires were snipped right outside the housing so I need to replace this wiring. I've found this, but I'm not sure if this is right as there doesn't seem to be a provision to get power to the backup light socket... http://dennis-carpenter.com/taiilight-pigtail/p/B6C-13410-A/Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. I've found two original assemblies, but the wires were snipped right outside the housing so I need to replace this wiring. I've found this, but I'm not sure if this is right as there doesn't seem to be a provision to get power to the backup light socket... http://dennis-carpenter.com/taiilight-pigtail/p/B6C-13410-A/ Why not use the original pigtails from the lights you're replacing? There's usually some slack available, and you'd get to keep the connectors to the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Hi there, I went down this rabbit hole last year, and although I ended up going with some Grote LED's (non-Ford-specific connectors), I recorded most the info as I was comparing and contrasting. Whatever you decide on, you're on the right track by getting part numbers, which will allow you to verify and compare offerings. I found quite a range in prices between LMC, NPD, Grote direct, Granger and Amazon. I'll dig a little and see if I can find my notes. (Edit) I haven't looked for my notes yet, but I went to Shelf-o-Parts and realized I still have the original Grote pod with Ford's stamp on the back. No Ford part number, but it's Grote Model 5096, and although it's marked "RH" for right-hand, they are interchangeable, and it has a side marker and no license light. If you want it, it's yours for the cost of shipping. Fair warning, the leads are clipped close to the housing, but that's a pretty easy fix. There's a small nick out of the side marker (but no white light leakage), the lens is intact, and the housing is in good shape, if a bit of a patina from 35 years on the truck. I decided to resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one on a related topic: I was looking for some instrument LED's for a motorcycle project, and came across an offering for the Ford/Grote-style pods for the flaresides at the least expensive price point I've encountered from a reputable company. No affiliations with the vendor, but they've always been great for service and warranty. Their offering has a single choice for the license light, but for the cost, it's a bargain for those that aren't concerned with having the Grote brand on their ride: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/trailer-tail-brake-turn/multi-function-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-combo-box-universal-mount-led-braketurntail-lights-pigtail-connector/567/1775/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 I decided to resurrect this thread instead of starting a new one on a related topic: I was looking for some instrument LED's for a motorcycle project, and came across an offering for the Ford/Grote-style pods for the flaresides at the least expensive price point I've encountered from a reputable company. No affiliations with the vendor, but they've always been great for service and warranty. Their offering has a single choice for the license light, but for the cost, it's a bargain for those that aren't concerned with having the Grote brand on their ride: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/trailer-tail-brake-turn/multi-function-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-combo-box-universal-mount-led-braketurntail-lights-pigtail-connector/567/1775/ Those are nice, and half the price of others I've seen. Thanks for sharing this, Dyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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