thelastkeg Posted October 15 Share Posted October 15 Welcome! Me personally, I would buy every bullnose I could find locally for $510 in that condition. Worst case scenario, you'd be surprised at how much you can make parting out an older truck locally and on ebay. But I agree with Gary, you buying it depends on your goals and your mechanical ability or at least your willingness to spend time and effort learning how to work on it. Spending more on something that already at least starts up results in a lot less headache up front. But, my dad says we all have our own form of brain damage, and my brain damage is dragging home cheap non-running stuff just like this. Which is why I have 11 vehicles at my house, only 6 of which currently run and drive. (7 of the 11 are Ford trucks, 4 of the 7 Fords run and drive and are road-legal.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelastkeg Posted October 15 Share Posted October 15 Also, look at that brake pedal, doesn't appear to be hardly worn which could indicate pretty low miles. And that camper shell? Might be hiding a pristine bed inside. It's way too far away for me, but I would enjoy seeing more pictures of this gem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted October 15 Author Share Posted October 15 Thanks for the comments. I’ll know in about a week if I get to bring it home! I’ll post if I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted October 16 Share Posted October 16 (edited) 7 hours ago, thelastkeg said: you'd be surprised at how much you can make parting out an older truck locally and on ebay. Sum of parts is usually more than 2-4x what the whole truck may bring -- that is the fate of a Bullnose that needs help. That much is clear.... I asked people on Facebook once if I should part out a truck with mild frame damage or not... and was told by someone on Facebook that "parting out a fixable truck with a title is a trip straight down" so that has haunted me for a while but I did part out that truck anyway as my Bronco needed an engine desperately... 😂 In my case, one truck helping another was my justification. Edited October 16 by viven44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Sunday at 08:39 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 08:39 PM So, as an update, I did end up buying the 1980 Lariat. Paid $360 US. Have to get it towed home some how. First question has to deal with the seized engine. I’ve read I could remove the plugs and put in diesel fuel, WD 40 specialist, ATF/Acetone mixture, Mystery Oil, among others. Any advice on what is best for this Ford? I’ll post a few photos of the truck when I get it home. It’s rough, but looking forward to putting some work into it with my dad. Also, needed a battery. Needs one with high CCA? Thanks to any knowledgeable advisor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelastkeg Posted Sunday at 08:48 PM Share Posted Sunday at 08:48 PM Nice! Great price. I’ve used Marvel mystery oil and PB Blaster and a combo of the two on several stuck engines. Only a flathead Ford V8 never freed up for me. One was a 351W that had been in a flood and was not emptied of the water until it went through auction and I got it. Used a pry bar on the flywheel for that one. Another was the inline 6 in my Chevelle. It was really stuck, and took a lot of patience and persuasion with a breaker bar on the crank nut, but it finally freed up. It clattered and smoked some when it first started up, but it’s been running fine with no smoke and no noise for almost a year since we freed it up. There’s hope. Just soak it and let it sit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Sunday at 10:16 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:16 PM Thanks! I’ll see what products are available in Canada. Any idea if I should be able to get the truck into neutral without the engine running? Turning the key (without battery) then trying to get it out of park (automatic) didn’t work. Thinking of what the towing guy might want, plus I’d like to be able to push it into my barn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Sunday at 10:47 PM Share Posted Sunday at 10:47 PM Any of those products are good. I like PB Blaster as it is designed to wick into rusty parts, and that may be what you have - rings rusted to the cylinder walls. As for getting the tranny out of Park, you can go under the truck and loosen the bolt where the shift linkage connects to the transmission. There's one bolt that is in a long slot and if you loosen that bolt you may be able shift the linkage going into the transmission. However, if the truck is up against the park pawl hard you may not even then be able to get it out of Park w/o pushing the truck forward or backward to ease the pressure on the pawl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincoln Posted Tuesday at 10:14 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 10:14 PM On 10/14/2024 at 2:55 PM, Gary Lewis said: You are now on the map. And you aren't that far into Canada. As for your father being 78, I'm 77 1/2 so I understand. He probably grew up needing to do mechanical things as the cars back then required it. So he might be able to guide you. About that truck, it is an early '80 as it has the clear turn signal lenses. Ford changed those to amber in early 1981. And the 1980 trucks are a bit different wiring wise. Not a problem but we just have to remember they are different. An F250 could have the 300 six or 351M or its big brother the 400 - and you can't really tell them apart from the outside. The tranny might be an NP435 4-speed manual or the venerable C6 automatic. The truck doesn't look to have serious rust problems, but that can be a huge issue so you should check it out. Above the rear wheel wells and the rear cab corners are the main spots in the body. And the frame around the rear spring hangers should be checked as well. On 10/14/2024 at 1:41 PM, Lincoln said: So, while not owning the 1980 F250 Ranger Lariat, but with the chance to buy it from a neighbour, am I in over my head and maybe should move along to something needing less work, if the pullies don’t move when trying to turn it over and can’t seem to get it out of park (with key in the ignition). So, I ended up buying it. First question for anyone: should I take off the grill, rad, and fan shroud so that I can get in with a breaker bar? There is no space otherwise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted Wednesday at 11:32 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:32 AM 13 hours ago, Lincoln said: So, I ended up buying it. Yeah! Congrats! About your question: 13 hours ago, Lincoln said: First question for anyone: should I take off the grill, rad, and fan shroud so that I can get in with a breaker bar? There is no space otherwise. I don't have answer but I'm sure some guys here will discuss the project with you. However, since you'll probably have multiple exchanges with Bullnose experts here, I suggest that you create a new topic in the main section about your project (Start New Topic red button). «New Member» is done, you're now plenty starting a Bullnose Journey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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