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1981 straight six manual 4x4 project


Ford F834

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Ahhh. Got it. Looks like you have the EFI valve cover which has a separate filler cap. It is different than mine. I do not have a spare 90* that is inside the air cleaner then, but I may be able to get one. I will look for you next time I go to the junkyard.

The 90* fits on the outside of the air filter housing.

This 90* has a flange that the clip holds this 90* and the breather to the main housing.

Wish I had a picture and I am sure when see it it will click and that light bulb will go on LOL

If you can find one would be nice but don't knock yourself out doing so what I got now is working.

Thanks

Dave G

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One thing I have had on the back burner is changing my air cleaner assembly to the remote “tear drop” style. David gave me one of the regular style air cleaners and it has served me well. However it occurred to me that the tear drop does not cover the choke area of the carburetor and would allow me to extend the choke lever and fix the short throw cable issue that the manual conversion kits have. Also, after having my carburetor vibrate in half on the back roads of Death Valley it seems that it might be preferable to have the weight of the air cleaner at least partially supported by a bracket instead of resting completely on top of the carburetor body.

I have looked through the Garagemahal pages and I can’t make heads or tails of which trucks originally got the tear drop. It says 80-86, while the flat type was 82-86 and both came in F100-350. Regardless, the tear drop has to be what originally came on my ‘81.

When switching, I want to do it right and return everything to working order. I bought the heat collector for the exhaust manifold. It looks like I can buy the aluminum pre heater duct new from any parts house.

As far as the vacuum / emissions aspect, I am striving to make it functionally and visually as close as possible to the Canadian non-catalyst non-EGR configuration. According to the Canadian emissions label there is no TVS in the air cleaner, just the bi/metal valve in the air cleaner base, the cold weather modulator on the wall of the canister, and the pre heat diverter in the snorkel. That’s it. And the distributor advance of course...

I have been seeing fewer and fewer of the tear drop air cleaners in the junkyards, and when I went to look for one I was quite lucky in that I happened to find one from a ‘79 F150 has only one hole in the side for the cold weather modulator, not two like all the bullnose ones I have run across. Very extremely minor detail with no real benefit, but it put a smile on my face. I guess we’ll see how long the smile lasts... it does seem like a hassle when you go to remove the tear drop and have all the bracket fasteners to deal with.

The only last thing I need to complete my set up is a Canadian non-EGR carburetor spacer. If anyone has one of these that they would part with please let me know 🙂

Quick update:

I have my AC parts on order along with the filter element for the tear drop. Hopefully I will have functioning AC sooner than later as it’s getting pretty warm here in Arizona.

The visor shelf shelf is a success and much appreciated by my wife. My only complaint is it does seem to absorb engine vibrations. There is no rattling or buzzing or any sound whatsoever, but it does move in my upper peripheral field of vision. I might experiment with wedging a foam block between the shelf and the headliner, but it is a very minor annoyance and a small price to pay.

I found a good condition black carpet for it at the junkyard. It is aftermarket. Fitment isn’t perfect, and it’s thinner than stock but for the price I’m not going to complain. It’s good enough “for now” while this truck waits it’s turn for a full makeover. Installing it is on my to do list this week.

NotEnoughTrucks sent be a superb condition metric speedometer head. I have not installed it yet, but I did mess with the speedometer gears trying to get km to read as mi. I had a pink 19 tooth gear and tried that, but it still didn’t slow it down enough. I did the math and found out I need exactly a 22 tooth gear which does not exist... there is a 21 tooth gear from Ford and a 23 tooth gear from a company called Steeda. But no 22 tooth. I am leaning toward using the 21 tooth just because it would be better to have the speedometer read a little high than a little low, and word is that the 23 tooth gears wear pretty quickly. I’m not as bummed about the speedometer being off as I am about the odometer, as it complicates navigation by distance and mpg calculations. I may buy a correction gear box one day, but adding an overdrive is still not completely ruled out in which case I will be working with different drive gears and driven gears all together (in the overdrive unit) so a cheap 21 tooth Ford gear will have to be “good enough for now”. We will see how far off it is in real world use once I get one and install the km speedometer.

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Quick update:

I have my AC parts on order along with the filter element for the tear drop. Hopefully I will have functioning AC sooner than later as it’s getting pretty warm here in Arizona.

The visor shelf shelf is a success and much appreciated by my wife. My only complaint is it does seem to absorb engine vibrations. There is no rattling or buzzing or any sound whatsoever, but it does move in my upper peripheral field of vision. I might experiment with wedging a foam block between the shelf and the headliner, but it is a very minor annoyance and a small price to pay.

I found a good condition black carpet for it at the junkyard. It is aftermarket. Fitment isn’t perfect, and it’s thinner than stock but for the price I’m not going to complain. It’s good enough “for now” while this truck waits it’s turn for a full makeover. Installing it is on my to do list this week.

NotEnoughTrucks sent be a superb condition metric speedometer head. I have not installed it yet, but I did mess with the speedometer gears trying to get km to read as mi. I had a pink 19 tooth gear and tried that, but it still didn’t slow it down enough. I did the math and found out I need exactly a 22 tooth gear which does not exist... there is a 21 tooth gear from Ford and a 23 tooth gear from a company called Steeda. But no 22 tooth. I am leaning toward using the 21 tooth just because it would be better to have the speedometer read a little high than a little low, and word is that the 23 tooth gears wear pretty quickly. I’m not as bummed about the speedometer being off as I am about the odometer, as it complicates navigation by distance and mpg calculations. I may buy a correction gear box one day, but adding an overdrive is still not completely ruled out in which case I will be working with different drive gears and driven gears all together (in the overdrive unit) so a cheap 21 tooth Ford gear will have to be “good enough for now”. We will see how far off it is in real world use once I get one and install the km speedometer.

I understand the A/C issue. I'm even contemplating having the A/C on Big Blue charged once to see if it'll hold as I want to take it to the Fordification show in MO in June. It's 230 miles round trip, and since Janey is going with me.....

On the speedo, Big Blue's is about 5 mph slow across the board, which is hard to believe but seems to be the case. And that's dangerous as I have to keep reminding myself that I'm going faster than I think. So I do agree that showing faster is better than showing slower.

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Quick update:

I have my AC parts on order along with the filter element for the tear drop. Hopefully I will have functioning AC sooner than later as it’s getting pretty warm here in Arizona.

The visor shelf shelf is a success and much appreciated by my wife. My only complaint is it does seem to absorb engine vibrations. There is no rattling or buzzing or any sound whatsoever, but it does move in my upper peripheral field of vision. I might experiment with wedging a foam block between the shelf and the headliner, but it is a very minor annoyance and a small price to pay.

I found a good condition black carpet for it at the junkyard. It is aftermarket. Fitment isn’t perfect, and it’s thinner than stock but for the price I’m not going to complain. It’s good enough “for now” while this truck waits it’s turn for a full makeover. Installing it is on my to do list this week.

NotEnoughTrucks sent be a superb condition metric speedometer head. I have not installed it yet, but I did mess with the speedometer gears trying to get km to read as mi. I had a pink 19 tooth gear and tried that, but it still didn’t slow it down enough. I did the math and found out I need exactly a 22 tooth gear which does not exist... there is a 21 tooth gear from Ford and a 23 tooth gear from a company called Steeda. But no 22 tooth. I am leaning toward using the 21 tooth just because it would be better to have the speedometer read a little high than a little low, and word is that the 23 tooth gears wear pretty quickly. I’m not as bummed about the speedometer being off as I am about the odometer, as it complicates navigation by distance and mpg calculations. I may buy a correction gear box one day, but adding an overdrive is still not completely ruled out in which case I will be working with different drive gears and driven gears all together (in the overdrive unit) so a cheap 21 tooth Ford gear will have to be “good enough for now”. We will see how far off it is in real world use once I get one and install the km speedometer.

A different kind of junkyard haul for today. Needs cleaning, hatch struts and maybe new latches, but the price was very decent and it matches the truck fairly well. Summer camping soon! 😀

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A different kind of junkyard haul for today. Needs cleaning, hatch struts and maybe new latches, but the price was very decent and it matches the truck fairly well. Summer camping soon! 😀

Looks great! Fits well and seems to match the truck. But the rear door is different from those I've seen.

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Looks great! Fits well and seems to match the truck. But the rear door is different from those I've seen.

It dose look good.

Gary, that door opens the full width & top to bottom.

If you look at the others they make the opening smaller so you can't get in large loads.

Look at ATV's or garden tractors they sit high so no go with the other types.

Dave - - - -

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Looks great! Fits well and seems to match the truck. But the rear door is different from those I've seen.

It dose look good.

Gary, that door opens the full width & top to bottom.

If you look at the others they make the opening smaller so you can't get in large loads.

Look at ATV's or garden tractors they sit high so no go with the other types.

Dave - - - -

Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense.

I've actually thought about a shell/topper for Big Blue. It would protect whatever I put back there, and would give a place to sleep for overlanding. But the jury is still out on that.

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Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense.

I've actually thought about a shell/topper for Big Blue. It would protect whatever I put back there, and would give a place to sleep for overlanding. But the jury is still out on that.

I got a topper for my first truck ('85 F-250 regular cab) to keep the dog inside on hunting trips. Never liked the looks of a pickup with a topper as well as a plain pickup, so I only had the topper on that truck during hunting season.

Then my next truck was a SuperCab ('95 F-150) so it became the family trip vehicle. That truck needed a topper during hunting season and on family trips (including almost every weekend to the cabin in the summer). I was never as stoked about the lines of a SuperCab short box. With the topper it almost looked better to me (just like an SUV). Between that and (mostly) the utility of it, I almost never took the topper off that truck.

Since then I've had three different trucks, all crew cab short boxes ('08 F-250, '02 F-350, '97 F-250, in that order). They've all had toppers that rarely come off. I've got so used to having a topper I really can't see not having one on most of the time now.

But I still like the lines of a regular cab long box with no topper the best.

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