Rockhauler Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 and how many people even keep a car that long anymore? I know I'm an oddball, i bought my first truck in 1991 and I'm still driving it. gotta go, I got brakes to bleed! Ha odd ball guess I'm in the club not sure which year but bought my first truck in the early 90's and my second one in early 2000. Still have and drive both and no plans to replace either, just every 10 years or so freshen them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Ha odd ball guess I'm in the club not sure which year but bought my first truck in the early 90's and my second one in early 2000. Still have and drive both and no plans to replace either, just every 10 years or so freshen them up. I don't know how y'all felt buying those trucks new back then... but today's trucks are not for the faint of heart with the amount of custom technology in them (OEM chips/modules only -- no aftermarket replacement) and the cost of simple repairs in the future can be high due to monopoly of parts. From that perspective, I feel like I missed the boat on owning a new truck and using it for a long time..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirlye Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 Thanks guys for all of your advice. I plan on redoing whole brake system. I'll start with the master cylinder for now, that way I'll be safe out on the road. My goal for the truck is to have a new old truck. Completely as reliable as possible. I'm not a fan of these new computer controlled vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Thanks guys for all of your advice. I plan on redoing whole brake system. I'll start with the master cylinder for now, that way I'll be safe out on the road. My goal for the truck is to have a new old truck. Completely as reliable as possible. I'm not a fan of these new computer controlled vehicles. If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor. U-haul surplus still had one listed last week, but I think it's the big bore 250/350 model. They ship fast, and if course there's no core charge. 👍 Edit to add: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173280150780?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S3BjJ0E7SWC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY $52.18 + $4.95 shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 U-haul surplus still had one listed last week, but I think it's the big bore 250/350 model. They ship fast, and if course there's no core charge. 👍 Edit to add: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173280150780?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S3BjJ0E7SWC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY $52.18 + $4.95 shipping The newly-made Raybestos one I used when I upgraded wasn't all that expensive if memory serves. Also no core charge. Despite what Raybestos says, mine did have the hard-to-find valve thingy on it (along with the level switch, which I added to my brake warning circuit because I'm an overachiever!). Pretty sure I bought mine from RockAuto? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor. Gary, other than the bleeding advantages, do we know if the newer master cylinders increase pressure in the lines ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirlye Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor. Yes I would love that information. I was going to buy everything at once, then take a weekend and replace everything. But I think I'll replace the master cylinder first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 U-haul surplus still had one listed last week, but I think it's the big bore 250/350 model. They ship fast, and if course there's no core charge. 👍 Edit to add: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173280150780?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=S3BjJ0E7SWC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY $52.18 + $4.95 shipping It possible the mounting stud spacing may also be different between 1/2 tons (F150, Broncos), and the HDs (F250 HD, F350, +)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 It possible the mounting stud spacing may also be different between 1/2 tons (F150, Broncos), and the HDs (F250 HD, F350, +)... Yes, that and the slightly larger bore makes the pedal stiffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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