ArdWrknTrk Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Thanks for that, I'll take a look. I guess if it's screwed up already and I'm looking for replacements, it doesn't hurt to try. My main issue with the aftermarket sliders is they are mainly grey or solar glass. I want the green tint, and after a bit of digging, I ran across this: https://www.dkhardware.com/oem-replacement-duo-vent-four-panel-slider-with-light-green-glass-for-1973-1996-ford-f-series-7130et-product-28289.html The only bummer as you mention is the different gasket. I would like to retain the chrome insert, and that won't be a possibility if I get the aftermarket slider. The other nitpicky thing is I like having the Carlite etching on the glass - I have found replacement door/vent glass, but obviously that will be missing from the replacements and won't match the rest of the car (can you tell this is more of a passion project than a work truck thing?! haha) So I think at the end of the day if the cerium oxide doesn't work out, I'm on the hunt for OE glass. If all else fails, then the aftermarket slider above will work, but I'll be pretty disappointed that I caused this... I have an aftermarket (CRL) slider and the 'chrome' locking insert.... I think I bought that setup (plus the stainless joiner clip from LMC. The window came from eBay. I use a magic eraser on dirty or paint over spray glass. It works well enough and the melamine foam won't scratch... 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 I think it is the other way around. The door glass is different because the vent window size changed. But the slider size was the same for many years. So I think the slider the guy has may be right. Classic Industries says they fit from 1973 - 97. Vent window changed and the door glass is shorter front to back due to the wider rear portion of the wing vent frame, which I believe started in 1987 (Jim may know) The 1990 parts truck had the wider rear part of the vent window frame. Wing vent changed due to the 1993-97 dash change (hump on driver's side) and the power side mirror option. Cab rear window opening is the same from 1980 to 1997, Darth has a rear power slider from a 1996 F350 installed. Old one piece window was left with the salvage yard (Pete's) to be used or sold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Vent window changed and the door glass is shorter front to back due to the wider rear portion of the wing vent frame, which I believe started in 1987 (Jim may know) The 1990 parts truck had the wider rear part of the vent window frame. Wing vent changed due to the 1993-97 dash change (hump on driver's side) and the power side mirror option. Cab rear window opening is the same from 1980 to 1997, Darth has a rear power slider from a 1996 F350 installed. Old one piece window was left with the salvage yard (Pete's) to be used or sold. Yes, my 87 is a good 1 1/2" between the vent and door glass. Bill is correct that it is the dash that made the vent window go away and the mirror got moved off the door skin where it was always tearing the sheet metal. The rear glass is consistent across the whole range until the refresh, where the 150 changed for '96, but the 250\350 had no 98 MY and became the Super Duty for '99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Yes, my 87 is a good 1 1/2" between the vent and door glass. Bill is correct that it is the dash that made the vent window go away and the mirror got moved off the door skin where it was always tearing the sheet metal. The rear glass is consistent across the whole range until the refresh, where the 150 changed for '96, but the 250\350 had no 98 MY and became the Super Duty for '99 Man, you guys know your windows. Thanks for all the background information. I see that there is a clear glass version of the CRL slider available out there. It's not as popular as the grey glass version (on LMC for example) but for the purist the option is out there! They offer a version (DY90035) with no gasket, and the catalog says the OEM gasket will work. Just putting this here for future readers. I'll hopefully post good news tomorrow night. Charging my drill batteries so I use it to polish a test spot on my slider. I'm kind of tempted at this point to just buy the new slider though for $176 (gasket excluded - picture is incorrect)! https://www.gordonglassusa.com/item/DVW950B-1972/CRL-Duo-Vent-Four-Panel-Truck-Slider-with-Clear-Glass-for-1973-1996-Ford-F-Series-DVW950B-1972.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Man, you guys know your windows. Thanks for all the background information. I see that there is a clear glass version of the CRL slider available out there. It's not as popular as the grey glass version (on LMC for example) but for the purist the option is out there! They offer a version (DY90035) with no gasket, and the catalog says the OEM gasket will work. Just putting this here for future readers. I'll hopefully post good news tomorrow night. Charging my drill batteries so I use it to polish a test spot on my slider. I'm kind of tempted at this point to just buy the new slider though for $176 (gasket excluded - picture is incorrect)! https://www.gordonglassusa.com/item/DVW950B-1972/CRL-Duo-Vent-Four-Panel-Truck-Slider-with-Clear-Glass-for-1973-1996-Ford-F-Series-DVW950B-1972.html OEM as in, the thin gasket that fits single glass? Because that's where the aftermarket windows differ from OEM. Factory sliders put the bypass channel in the gasket where C.R. Laurence hàs an aluminium fin and "fillers" in the corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 OEM as in, the thin gasket that fits single glass? Because that's where the aftermarket windows differ from OEM. Factory sliders put the bypass channel in the gasket where C.R. Laurence hàs an aluminium fin and "fillers" in the corners. I have the sliding rear window that was in my '97 F-250HD when I bought it. It's a pretty dark grey tint which is why I had it replaced (dark tinted rear windows become opaque when you put a topper on the truck). No idea what it would take to ship, and it sounds like you have better options. But throwing it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 I have the sliding rear window that was in my '97 F-250HD when I bought it. It's a pretty dark grey tint which is why I had it replaced (dark tinted rear windows become opaque when you put a topper on the truck). No idea what it would take to ship, and it sounds like you have better options. But throwing it out there. Much appreciated! The cerium oxide will be here in a few hours, and we will see if I can undo my mistake and go from there. I'd like to keep the original glass if possible - as stupid as it sounds, there is an outline on the rear window glass still from a sticker my Dad had on the back window through the early 90's. I'd hate to get rid of those little reminders of him being the original driver of the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Much appreciated! The cerium oxide will be here in a few hours, and we will see if I can undo my mistake and go from there. I'd like to keep the original glass if possible - as stupid as it sounds, there is an outline on the rear window glass still from a sticker my Dad had on the back window through the early 90's. I'd hate to get rid of those little reminders of him being the original driver of the truck. Chris - I understand the desire to keep the original glass so I hope the abrasive does the trick. But I do have an extra slider which I could pull the glass from and send it to you if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Chris - I understand the desire to keep the original glass so I hope the abrasive does the trick. But I do have an extra slider which I could pull the glass from and send it to you if you want. That's awesome, thanks Gary. I'll let you know if I end up needing it. Hopefully I can get mine fixed up and someone else in need can use it some day. But until then, stand by! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 That's awesome, thanks Gary. I'll let you know if I end up needing it. Hopefully I can get mine fixed up and someone else in need can use it some day. But until then, stand by! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif Ok, looks like some progress. I spent about 20 minutes on the passenger door window with the cerium oxide and a kit that included some 3" polishing pads to use with my drill. Definitely better! I also ordered some pads for my DA polisher, since I have 5 windows to go it should make things go a little faster and do better than my poor Dewalt cordless drill that only goes maybe 200 RPM. It seems lots of detailers use rotary tools with cerium oxide if you're *careful*. The dual action of the polisher I'm using is meant to help newbies not burn their paint, so that'll help with the blast radius http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif in case I mess up. Apparently you have to look out for heating up the glass and obviously applying even pressure so you take a uniform amount of material off the surface. I started with light pressure, and it basically did nothing. I applied medium to medium-heavy pressure and while it wore the drill out quickly, it did make a big difference. There is more to do on that window even, but I'm encouraged by the results and I think I didn't do irreversible damage. Before: After: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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