ArdWrknTrk Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 Thanks Jim. I used the jumper to probe for continuity in the wire. Maybe poking it changed something? I'll take a closer look at that connector. What do you mean "inject current" there? I could try that but I'm concerned the short (or whatever is happening) could be downstream of that... I was connecting battery (37) directly to start (262) at the ignition switch connector. Initially sparked and wire got hot with ammeter needle dipping. After some digging and poking, things went to normal and doing that caused engine to crank over... C262 is the ignition side, not 32, the red/blue starter wire. You were sending power to the coil and ignition module.... You mentioned using a momentary switch to crank the starter. I'm saying that you wouldn't need to tap into any wiring if you used one of those piggyback fuseholders and ran your switch to above your left knee where the clutch safety is already jumpered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 C262 is the ignition side, not 32, the red/blue starter wire. You were sending power to the coil and ignition module.... You mentioned using a momentary switch to crank the starter. I'm saying that you wouldn't need to tap into any wiring if you used one of those piggyback fuseholders and ran your switch to above your left knee where the clutch safety is already jumpered. Oh my bad, I read the diagram wrong. I was jumping to 32. Like I said it did eventually just crank (and not start since I didn't connect ignition). I hear you, it's just that tapping into the existing wiring might produce the same result if the damaged part is on the reused path... But I guess that would be narrowing it down some so could be invaluable. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 Oh my bad, I read the diagram wrong. I was jumping to 32. Like I said it did eventually just crank (and not start since I didn't connect ignition). I hear you, it's just that tapping into the existing wiring might produce the same result if the damaged part is on the reused path... But I guess that would be narrowing it down some so could be invaluable. Thanks Narrowing it down would be pulling the jumper shown in the first diagram and seeing if it's a really tarnished. I always like to apply Deoxit D5 and work the plug in and out, then give it a little flush with the same stuff.it works wonders on tuners and connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 Narrowing it down would be pulling the jumper shown in the first diagram and seeing if it's a really tarnished. I always like to apply Deoxit D5 and work the plug in and out, then give it a little flush with the same stuff.it works wonders on tuners and connectors. Pulled the jumper out and things looked clean and without corrosion... Cleaned it anyway (I'll have to get some DeOxit), and actually put a fuse instead for now. Of course this is the "everything works fine" phase so I'll have to wait for it to start acting up to continue the chase. Or not, but I'd like to understand what went on. Thanks all for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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