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Down and Dirty (fast) Rag Joint Cure


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I ordered a replaceable type rag joint from Summit - about $30 with shipping. I soon discovered I had the one where you are supposed to replace the whole lower shaft with the new rag joint marvelously riveted to it. In short, I cut off the old rag joint and their attaching ears and made a new plate to fit the replaceable joint that I got in the mail. I welded it on - works great!IMG_7969.jpg.eae0c9d6ee9632ac7d6d663338904e46.jpgIMG_7972.jpg.6426daef4837a78abcd34a88cd8e0e4a.jpgIMG_7977.jpg.0f7205c54096d27fcc6d08a45becd581.jpgIMG_7979.jpg.6d65b777f0cab963e4c7cdbe700a31a5.jpgIMG_7981.jpg.ef390b309fdb40fd097bc477b07d6853.jpgIMG_7969.jpg.eae0c9d6ee9632ac7d6d663338904e46.jpg
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Well done! 👍

I think I ground the rivets out and used elevator bolts when I first did mine (my 87 may be slightly different)

Ultimately I got hold of a 2009 F-150 lower shaft that has universals at each end and welded the pinch spline onto that.

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Well done! 👍

I think I ground the rivets out and used elevator bolts when I first did mine (my 87 may be slightly different)

Ultimately I got hold of a 2009 F-150 lower shaft that has universals at each end and welded the pinch spline onto that.

I did the same thing once with nuts and bolts after grinding off the rivets. It was like a puzzle getting everything back together. They riveted those suckers for a reason.

 

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I did the same thing once with nuts and bolts after grinding off the rivets. It was like a puzzle getting everything back together. They riveted those suckers for a reason.

Rivets expand to absolutely fill the hole.

That's why all the crossmember TSB's require you to ream the hole to size and drive the bolt in with a drilling hammer.

 

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