ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Darth melted the rubber mud flap on the right side with the tailpipe. That is around 15 feet from the engine and has passed through probably 10 feet of dual pipes, the muffler and about 5 feet of tailpipe. This is a non-catalyst truck, but I did still have both smoke grinders installed. After converting to EFI, I no longer have a smoke grinder as it's only function on EFI is to pump air into the catalytic converter and pre 1988 trucks do not have a catalytic converter on a 460. The heat from the right side manifold melted two vacuum lines that pass between th engine and two reservoirs on the right inner fender. These are probably 18" above the manifold on that side. Left side motor mount has a heat shield on top of it so the manifold heat won't melt it. I wire brushed the one for the new engine and painted it with high temperature aluminum paint. Exactly why I say use the slave cylinder heat shield and a reflective blanket on a smaller PMGR if you really want to run headers. Otherwise you're just setting yourself up for failure. Note that both of these are reflective (IR) and have as little thermal mass as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullnose Gator Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 Exactly why I say use the slave cylinder heat shield and a reflective blanket on a smaller PMGR if you really want to run headers. Otherwise you're just setting yourself up for failure. Note that both of these are reflective (IR) and have as little thermal mass as possible. Is the heat an issue only with headers, or am I going to now have lava running through the current exhaust manifolds? Also, any expectations for how much adjusting ill need to so to the 4180 carb to get the idle right? I just want to have an idea so I don't go to far with it when there could be something unrelated wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Is the heat an issue only with headers, or am I going to now have lava running through the current exhaust manifolds? Also, any expectations for how much adjusting ill need to so to the 4180 carb to get the idle right? I just want to have an idea so I don't go to far with it when there could be something unrelated wrong. Heat is always an issue with 460's. Moreso with thinwall headers than cast manifolds. The 4180 is a federally compliant tamperproof carb. About the only adjustment you have (without modifications) is to pull or chisel out the hardened plugs covering the idle mixture screws. Then, like Gary said you're either going to have to run premium, retard the ignition advance, or both. Honestly, you'd be better served by a 600 cfm 1460, 80457-S or a 650 AVS like I gave to Vivek. At least these options are easy to tune and well supported in the aftermarket. 💡 Headers aren't going to change much of anything unless you get a hotter cam installed correctly and an intake that can flow on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullnose Gator Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 Heat is always an issue with 460's. Moreso with thinwall headers than cast manifolds. The 4180 is a federally compliant tamperproof carb. About the only adjustment you have (without modifications) is to pull or chisel out the hardened plugs covering the idle mixture screws. Then, like Gary said you're either going to have to run premium, retard the ignition advance, or both. Honestly, you'd be better served by a 600 cfm 1460, 80457-S or a 650 AVS like I gave to Vivek. At least these options are easy to tune and well supported in the aftermarket. 💡 Headers aren't going to change much of anything unless you get a hotter cam installed correctly and an intake that can flow on top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe they already drilled out those hard plugs when they rebuilt this carb... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe they already drilled out those hard plugs when they rebuilt this carb... It looks like they ground through the base flange to get the plugs out 🤔 While this is fine, it is a violation of federal law to tamper with emissions. And while I'm sure it's fine in the bayou, that wouldn't fly in Kaliphornia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 It looks like they ground through the base flange to get the plugs out 🤔 While this is fine, it is a violation of federal law to tamper with emissions. And while I'm sure it's fine in the bayou, that wouldn't fly in Kaliphornia. Why would the idle mixture be blocked off for emissions reasons? Wouldn't it be beneficial to periodically re-calibrate to a good idle mixture ? The truck I saw today with a 4180 wouldn't idle under any kind of load.. I am wondering if its a bad idle mixture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullnose Gator Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 Why would the idle mixture be blocked off for emissions reasons? Wouldn't it be beneficial to periodically re-calibrate to a good idle mixture ? The truck I saw today with a 4180 wouldn't idle under any kind of load.. I am wondering if its a bad idle mixture I think I'm starting to confuse a few things you guys have said so far...and to be clear, I plan to leave the EGR as is. Since the idle mixture screws appear to be accessible now (thanks to the felons that rebuilt it ), should I start by adjusting those, or start with the distributor advance adjustment instructions that Gary kindly linked above? P.S. I've been running ethanol free gas, so switching to premium would actually be cheaper here. I just thought that ethanol gunked up carbs, but let me know if that's a legit concern or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 I think I'm starting to confuse a few things you guys have said so far...and to be clear, I plan to leave the EGR as is. Since the idle mixture screws appear to be accessible now (thanks to the felons that rebuilt it ), should I start by adjusting those, or start with the distributor advance adjustment instructions that Gary kindly linked above? P.S. I've been running ethanol free gas, so switching to premium would actually be cheaper here. I just thought that ethanol gunked up carbs, but let me know if that's a legit concern or not. $45,000 if a company, and $45,000 A DAY for records keeping/falsified testing etc.. The violation for individuals is closer to $4,300 'per event' whatever that means.. If you have an adjustable advance, like Crane explains in their instructions, then start by following the directions on the emissions/vacuum diagram located on the radiator support. I usually adjust the mixture for highest vacuum, open up another 1/8-1/4 turn and set the curb idle speed per the sticker, then get into adjusting the distributor. Sometimes the slot is just too wide and you have to take it apart and either weld up the slot or bush the stop pin. Scotty has good recurve instructions! 👍 https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullnose Gator Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 $45,000 if a company, and $45,000 A DAY for records keeping/falsified testing etc.. The violation for individuals is closer to $4,300 'per event' whatever that means.. If you have an adjustable advance, like Crane explains in their instructions, then start by following the directions on the emissions/vacuum diagram located on the radiator support. I usually adjust the mixture for highest vacuum, open up another 1/8-1/4 turn and set the curb idle speed per the sticker, then get into adjusting the distributor. Sometimes the slot is just too wide and you have to take it apart and either weld up the slot or bush the stop pin. Scotty has good recurve instructions! 👍 https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html Well first, I assumed all 4 plugs were drilled out, but just checked the two in the back and they are NOT. So replacing the carb with one you recommended is sounding better and better. Second, I'm not sure I trust myself to do that recurve properly, and for the price he is selling them already done, it is probably worth every penny in time, frustration, and confidence that it was done right. Third, I've seen mention elsewhere of replacing the distributor with a "straight up" one, but haven't looked into what that means. Is that similar to recurving the stock dist, or completely different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Well first, I assumed all 4 plugs were drilled out, but just checked the two in the back and they are NOT. So replacing the carb with one you recommended is sounding better and better. Second, I'm not sure I trust myself to do that recurve properly, and for the price he is selling them already done, it is probably worth every penny in time, frustration, and confidence that it was done right. Third, I've seen mention elsewhere of replacing the distributor with a "straight up" one, but haven't looked into what that means. Is that similar to recurving the stock dist, or completely different? You want to replace the timing chain set with one that's "straight up" (crank keyway pointing directly at the camshaft) This is how these engines were first built, before 1970's emissions regulations had ford holding the exhaust valve closed to allow more time for the charge to burn. I recommend a stock double roller timing set for an EFI 460 (1988 & later) These are longer lasting than a Hy-Vo type chain and factory approved! As for buying a distributor, you're going to have to give Scott all the information about your truck, how you intend to drive it & its engine. Weight, gearing, tire size, carburetor, intake, headers, compression ratio, cam, cam timing, etc... It might be wise to get all that in place before ordering. 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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