grumpin Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 I shifted the wires 1 terminal counter-clockwise. I also took a grinder to the water fitting to get full range of movement. Guess what, I drove it around the block for the first time. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 I shifted the wires 1 terminal counter-clockwise. I also took a grinder to the water fitting to get full range of movement. Guess what, I drove it around the block for the first time. Thanks guys. Congratulations! That is such a good feeling!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 I shifted the wires 1 terminal counter-clockwise. I also took a grinder to the water fitting to get full range of movement. Guess what, I drove it around the block for the first time. Thanks guys. Glad the HEI is working for you! Do you have a tach, and is that wire hooked up? Where is the initial spark set now that you can turn the distributor? Does the starter labour on hot restarts without spark retard? Do you intend to do any tuning of weights, springs and vacuum can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 Glad the HEI is working for you! Do you have a tach, and is that wire hooked up? Where is the initial spark set now that you can turn the distributor? Does the starter labour on hot restarts without spark retard? Do you intend to do any tuning of weights, springs and vacuum can? Hi Jim I have a factory tach. Once I locate the wire to it I will hook it up. Yes, I will get to messing with the springs to get max timing eventually. Keep in mind, I didn't get a light on it at all yet. It got late. My #1 is on the first terminal clockwise of the power/tach connector now. I get full range. No, the starter isn't laboring on hot starts. Still, being such a cheap unit, I will keep spare parts in my toolbox. The thing is, Jegs, Summitt, Autozone, B.Graveyard, none of them make clear why theirs are better that the Amazon cheapos. So I am stuck with the old you get what you pay for thing. I will say this though, from messing with it so much, the nub for indexing the cap is almost worn off because the plastic is so soft. Also, the attachment screws are so cheap that they are starting to strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 Hi Jim I have a factory tach. Once I locate the wire to it I will hook it up. Yes, I will get to messing with the springs to get max timing eventually. Keep in mind, I didn't get a light on it at all yet. It got late. My #1 is on the first terminal clockwise of the power/tach connector now. I get full range. No, the starter isn't laboring on hot starts. Still, being such a cheap unit, I will keep spare parts in my toolbox. The thing is, Jegs, Summitt, Autozone, B.Graveyard, none of them make clear why theirs are better that the Amazon cheapos. So I am stuck with the old you get what you pay for thing. I will say this though, from messing with it so much, the nub for indexing the cap is almost worn off because the plastic is so soft. Also, the attachment screws are so cheap that they are starting to strip. Sounds like they used the best Chineseum on the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 Hi Jim I have a factory tach. Once I locate the wire to it I will hook it up. Yes, I will get to messing with the springs to get max timing eventually. Keep in mind, I didn't get a light on it at all yet. It got late. My #1 is on the first terminal clockwise of the power/tach connector now. I get full range. No, the starter isn't laboring on hot starts. Still, being such a cheap unit, I will keep spare parts in my toolbox. The thing is, Jegs, Summitt, Autozone, B.Graveyard, none of them make clear why theirs are better that the Amazon cheapos. So I am stuck with the old you get what you pay for thing. I will say this though, from messing with it so much, the nub for indexing the cap is almost worn off because the plastic is so soft. Also, the attachment screws are so cheap that they are starting to strip. Some of these HEI units have a separate wire for tach. In the harness it's the same bk/gr ground as goes back to the DS-II Module. Edit EVTM image: Caps w/ coils are cheap enough. 👍 The 5 pin GM modules will retard spark if that 5th (H) pin is grounded, so you can wire a micro relay to the (I) terminal of the fender relay and have it retard when cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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