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Rough idle when getting hot


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1. I replaced the pcv valve since it’s only $3.

2. Never could find a video that illustrated what pinging sounds like so I don’t know.

3. When I say hot, I don’t mean over heated but just fully warmed, parked on a hot day ( still well within the normal range - let’s say over the “r”. )

4. i can assure you it is running lean since that’s the only way I can get it to pass emissions. I could enrichen the a/f screws on the carb to see if that helps?

5. I’ll try connecting vacuum directly to the distributer and see what happens.

I’ll add that I know squat about timing so I can’t really offer much in that department :/

since you have this tuned for the emissions test, It is a great time to verify vacuum leaks. they should be easier to sort out. one simple test, find the smallest direct vacuum port preferably manifold vacuum. and uncap it while running and warmed up. if it is truly lean then the idle will reduce. if it is rich it will speed up. in the best case you will have a timing light/ tach hooked up to watch. at this time you could adjust the idle mixture screws. And watch the tach. only adjust enough for it to smooth out then recap the port. if capped or uncapped no longer makes a difference, stop there.

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since you have this tuned for the emissions test, It is a great time to verify vacuum leaks. they should be easier to sort out. one simple test, find the smallest direct vacuum port preferably manifold vacuum. and uncap it while running and warmed up. if it is truly lean then the idle will reduce. if it is rich it will speed up. in the best case you will have a timing light/ tach hooked up to watch. at this time you could adjust the idle mixture screws. And watch the tach. only adjust enough for it to smooth out then recap the port. if capped or uncapped no longer makes a difference, stop there.

Matt - if I introduce an air leak the idle definitely stumbles. Are you saying to adjust the mixture screw while artificially inducing a leak? Why do that? ( just trying to understand what that accomplishes or diagnoses?)

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Matt - if I introduce an air leak the idle definitely stumbles. Are you saying to adjust the mixture screw while artificially inducing a leak? Why do that? ( just trying to understand what that accomplishes or diagnoses?)

I hooked up manifold vacuum to the distributor. This results in immediate increase in rpm’s. I wouldn’t say the engine idles smoother tho, just faster with the same slight lopsided-ness.

Interestingly, with the new pcv valve I can now hear it rattling very quickly with the engine running. Don’t recall hearing that before.

Also, I do have a timing gun, but I don’t really understand how to use it. Yet.

Vacuum pressure vid:

https://youtube.com/shorts/xzuh5YOWxI0?si=BGTWw-K0Q8SQSQGh

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Matt - if I introduce an air leak the idle definitely stumbles. Are you saying to adjust the mixture screw while artificially inducing a leak? Why do that? ( just trying to understand what that accomplishes or diagnoses?)

I'm assuming (and we all know better) that you unplugged a very small port. like 1/8". if you were to back out the idle mixture screws say 1/2 round each, does it smooth out? my concern is that it is leaned out too much in the attempt to pass the test. ironically this can lower one reading yet raise another.

are you certain that the egr valve is fully closed. at idle this will result in a vacuum leak. if this truck sat for an extended period before being resurrected there are many items like this to prove.

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I hooked up manifold vacuum to the distributor. This results in immediate increase in rpm’s. I wouldn’t say the engine idles smoother tho, just faster with the same slight lopsided-ness.

Interestingly, with the new pcv valve I can now hear it rattling very quickly with the engine running. Don’t recall hearing that before.

Also, I do have a timing gun, but I don’t really understand how to use it. Yet.

Vacuum pressure vid:

https://youtube.com/shorts/xzuh5YOWxI0?si=BGTWw-K0Q8SQSQGh

Video is not available

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Video is not available

I’ve tested the egr and actually installed it circa 2020.

I definitely did not induce a vacuum leak when I leaned the screws to pass deq. I basically turned it down so that it just barely ran in Feb.

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I’ve tested the egr and actually installed it circa 2020.

I definitely did not induce a vacuum leak when I leaned the screws to pass deq. I basically turned it down so that it just barely ran in Feb.

Brand new spark plugs ?

When was the last time you compression tested all cylinders ? I wonder if one of them is falling off the lower cliff when things get hot.

When I had Big Red, looking at my notes when things got hot all the cylinders lost some compression when hot (as might be typical).. cylinders 2 and 6 had barely over 80 PSI when things warmed up. I just don't think the valves seated all that well... maybe a over-torqued rocker arm?... I never got to the bottom of it before I sold Big Red. I actually put Big Red up for sale and someone wanted me to show compression values so thats when I realized things were close to cliff.

Big Red was still a torque monster... but was running real close to the cliff...

Rear

120 119

120 120

91 99

120 122

Front

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Brand new spark plugs ?

When was the last time you compression tested all cylinders ? I wonder if one of them is falling off the lower cliff when things get hot.

When I had Big Red, looking at my notes when things got hot all the cylinders lost some compression when hot (as might be typical).. cylinders 2 and 6 had barely over 80 PSI when things warmed up. I just don't think the valves seated all that well... maybe a over-torqued rocker arm?... I never got to the bottom of it before I sold Big Red. I actually put Big Red up for sale and someone wanted me to show compression values so thats when I realized things were close to cliff.

Big Red was still a torque monster... but was running real close to the cliff...

Rear

120 119

120 120

91 99

120 122

Front

3.5 turns but higher pressure and better idle….

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