ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Thanks Guys! Im learning as I go. Ill try to positively ID the transfer case today. I may also try to determine the granny ratio by lifting a tire, marking the output yoke on the transfer case and seeing how many engine revs are required to turn the shaft over. From what I can tell, I have a Ford 10.25 full float limited slip axle in the rear. If it says 1345, then it is a 1345. Yes, anything between '85-95 or so is a 10.25 full floater. There is also a semi floater, but it doesn't have hubs that stick way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Thanks Guys! Im learning as I go. Ill try to positively ID the transfer case today. I may also try to determine the granny ratio by lifting a tire, marking the output yoke on the transfer case and seeing how many engine revs are required to turn the shaft over. From what I can tell, I have a Ford 10.25 full float limited slip axle in the rear. If there is a metal tag on one of the cover studs that starts with 'L' it is limited slip. Or you could look on the door jamb tag for the rear axle code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Thanks Guys! Im learning as I go. Ill try to positively ID the transfer case today. I may also try to determine the granny ratio by lifting a tire, marking the output yoke on the transfer case and seeing how many engine revs are required to turn the shaft over. From what I can tell, I have a Ford 10.25 full float limited slip axle in the rear. Based on pedal condition, Im a little hopeful that the odometer (79,600 miles) actually hasn't rolled over yet. Does anyone have any tips on the best way to unlock the steering wheel? That would make life so much easier when it comes to moving the vehicle in the driveway. Im trying to avoid spending cash on the truck, but if a new ignition barrel w/key is a good fix, that's probably worth while just to be able to move the truck. Is there any way to get an ignition key if you don't have one to copy? Locksmith? Or I can take the column apart and disable the steering lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Based on pedal condition, Im a little hopeful that the odometer (79,600 miles) actually hasn't rolled over yet. Does anyone have any tips on the best way to unlock the steering wheel? That would make life so much easier when it comes to moving the vehicle in the driveway. Im trying to avoid spending cash on the truck, but if a new ignition barrel w/key is a good fix, that's probably worth while just to be able to move the truck. Is there any way to get an ignition key if you don't have one to copy? Locksmith? Or I can take the column apart and disable the steering lock. It is pretty simple! I will send you an email, as I'm not going to discuss this on an open forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Based on pedal condition, Im a little hopeful that the odometer (79,600 miles) actually hasn't rolled over yet. Does anyone have any tips on the best way to unlock the steering wheel? That would make life so much easier when it comes to moving the vehicle in the driveway. Im trying to avoid spending cash on the truck, but if a new ignition barrel w/key is a good fix, that's probably worth while just to be able to move the truck. Is there any way to get an ignition key if you don't have one to copy? Locksmith? Or I can take the column apart and disable the steering lock. Go to the page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Steering Wheels and then go to the Instructions tab followed by the Factory Shop Manual Section tab. When the shop manual section opens scroll down to Page 8 and on the right you'll find "Ignition Lock Cylinder (Without Key)". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Go to the page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns & Steering Wheels and then go to the Instructions tab followed by the Factory Shop Manual Section tab. When the shop manual section opens scroll down to Page 8 and on the right you'll find "Ignition Lock Cylinder (Without Key)". Of course...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Of course...... Only your hairdresser curator knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Only your hairdresser curator knows. Thanks guys. This forum is the undisputed best. On radiators - are all V8 radiators the same? I'm sure there was an HD radiator package for the 250/350 trucks. A radiator is one of the items I hope to find in the other donor truck but I dont know if say, a 351W radiator would work. The path to getting the engine running will include -at minimum - a radiator with hoses, working ignition (DS2 distributor and coil in place, ICM box has connectors cut off), wiring the starter motor, and a carb rebuild. Jim, To answer your question from yesterday yes, the engine harness is effectively gone. They cut the wires off at the big bulkhead connector under the break booster, all of the wires on the passenger wheel well by the battery/starter solenoid are gone, headlight wires are clipped off at the bulbs, and pretty much every little but of wire you'd expect to find is cut and gone. Intact wires are the rare exception. Oddly enough, the under dash wiring in the cab seems to be fine. All of this is why a roller/donor for a full truck harness is on my mind. It's nauseating to think about how little money the thief made at the scrap yard for those wire, and worse to imagine how his meager earnings were likely spent. Ill refrain from saying any more on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 Thanks guys. This forum is the undisputed best. On radiators - are all V8 radiators the same? I'm sure there was an HD radiator package for the 250/350 trucks. A radiator is one of the items I hope to find in the other donor truck but I dont know if say, a 351W radiator would work. The path to getting the engine running will include -at minimum - a radiator with hoses, working ignition (DS2 distributor and coil in place, ICM box has connectors cut off), wiring the starter motor, and a carb rebuild. Jim, To answer your question from yesterday yes, the engine harness is effectively gone. They cut the wires off at the big bulkhead connector under the break booster, all of the wires on the passenger wheel well by the battery/starter solenoid are gone, headlight wires are clipped off at the bulbs, and pretty much every little but of wire you'd expect to find is cut and gone. Intact wires are the rare exception. Oddly enough, the under dash wiring in the cab seems to be fine. All of this is why a roller/donor for a full truck harness is on my mind. It's nauseating to think about how little money the thief made at the scrap yard for those wire, and worse to imagine how his meager earnings were likely spent. Ill refrain from saying any more on the topic. The case truly is a 1345. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Thanks guys. This forum is the undisputed best. On radiators - are all V8 radiators the same? I'm sure there was an HD radiator package for the 250/350 trucks. A radiator is one of the items I hope to find in the other donor truck but I dont know if say, a 351W radiator would work. The path to getting the engine running will include -at minimum - a radiator with hoses, working ignition (DS2 distributor and coil in place, ICM box has connectors cut off), wiring the starter motor, and a carb rebuild. Jim, To answer your question from yesterday yes, the engine harness is effectively gone. They cut the wires off at the big bulkhead connector under the break booster, all of the wires on the passenger wheel well by the battery/starter solenoid are gone, headlight wires are clipped off at the bulbs, and pretty much every little but of wire you'd expect to find is cut and gone. Intact wires are the rare exception. Oddly enough, the under dash wiring in the cab seems to be fine. All of this is why a roller/donor for a full truck harness is on my mind. It's nauseating to think about how little money the thief made at the scrap yard for those wire, and worse to imagine how his meager earnings were likely spent. Ill refrain from saying any more on the topic. The 460 has a unique and convoluted lower radiator hose, to fit around the oil filter. But the inlet/outlet of all GAS V-8's is the same. I would suggest trying to find another '87 DS-II truck 351HO or 460 and carefully disconnecting that bulkhead fitting. Much easier and cleaner than making a million splices and not having the colour coded wire to go by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts