viven44 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 Gary linked the cylinder removal (without key) just the other day. I think it's in the steering column section. Are you sure that you have the rubber boot attached to the MC cap? You are looking at the port in the bottom? I would look at the pedal linkage and firewall flex/tearing before I got into the hydraulics. These systems are a bear to bleed, without the now unavailable slave that has an actual bleed nipple.... I need to find that link that Gary posted you are referring to I bought a lock raking set on alibaba a few months ago. Came from china. Apparently these locks are really easy to rake. I tried once and wasn’t successful on the one lock I had on hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 I need to find that link that Gary posted you are referring to I bought a lock raking set on alibaba a few months ago. Came from china. Apparently these locks are really easy to rake. I tried once and wasn’t successful on the one lock I had on hand. You don't need to pick it if you're replacing the cylinder. Just follow the instructions from the FWSM, they're posted right on the site.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 You don't need to pick it if you're replacing the cylinder. Just follow the instructions from the FWSM, they're posted right on the site.... Yeah I know. I have replaced several without needing to pick. If key was available it’s no issue; If key is missing, picking would allow it to be moved into a position where the cylinder can be released But this is new to me. If there is a service manual procedure for removal without key (that doesn’t involving drilling) that is awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 Yeah I know. I have replaced several without needing to pick. If key was available it’s no issue; If key is missing, picking would allow it to be moved into a position where the cylinder can be released But this is new to me. If there is a service manual procedure for removal without key (that doesn’t involving drilling) that is awesome https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns--steering-wheels.html 13-05-8 Again, who cares if you need to break it when it needs replacing anyhow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns--steering-wheels.html 13-05-8 Again, who cares if you need to break it when it needs replacing anyhow? when removing a bad cylinder or sans key I just drill the tumblers out. but that's old tech. I will definitely look for a less barbaric way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns--steering-wheels.html 13-05-8 Again, who cares if you need to break it when it needs replacing anyhow? Thanks! I would go find it usually but I’m not on a computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted July 20 Author Share Posted July 20 Thanks! I would go find it usually but I’m not on a computer. I've just reviewed the instructions in the FSM link that Jim and Gary have posted. Essentially, the FSM seems to be instructing me to continue disassembling the colum until I have the flange casting in hand. After that, it only seems to say "remove lock cylinder assembly" and doesn't elaborate on how to accomplish that if the cylinder will not turn. Is it implied that you would drill out the cylinder at that point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 I've just reviewed the instructions in the FSM link that Jim and Gary have posted. Essentially, the FSM seems to be instructing me to continue disassembling the colum until I have the flange casting in hand. After that, it only seems to say "remove lock cylinder assembly" and doesn't elaborate on how to accomplish that if the cylinder will not turn. Is it implied that you would drill out the cylinder at that point? It's the (non) destructive way.... You can twist that casting right off with a decent sized pair of Channellocks Can't have dealership bay mechanics wrenching locks out with a slide hammer or a chunky screwdriver! What would it do to the billable hours??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 It's the (non) destructive way.... You can twist that casting right off with a decent sized pair of Channellocks Can't have dealership bay mechanics wrenching locks out with a slide hammer or a chunky screwdriver! What would it do to the billable hours??? He already has the chrome casting off of the lock cylinder. I think the flange casting the service manual refers to is the one the lock cylinder sits inside. Those are a pain to replace so prevent damage to them at all cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted July 20 Author Share Posted July 20 It's the (non) destructive way.... You can twist that casting right off with a decent sized pair of Channellocks Can't have dealership bay mechanics wrenching locks out with a slide hammer or a chunky screwdriver! What would it do to the billable hours??? He already has the chrome casting off of the lock cylinder. I think the flange casting the service manual refers to is the one the lock cylinder sits inside. Those are a pain to replace so prevent damage to them at all cost. Hi guys, I have the lock barrel out, and the new one should be here tomorrow. I'll try it out when it gets here, I think everything is still serviceable. Agreed, replacing the housing that the lock barrel and blinker assembly live in would be a huge pain I made this video detailing what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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