One Piece at a Time - Firewood truck project

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Guys!

I verified the granny gear on my T19 today. Turns out that paint marker and elbow grease are potent agents for truck diagnostics!

I put the Transmission in 1st and the transfer case in 2 hi, then lifted one rear wheel. I marked the balancer and the transfer case, then counted revolutions of the balancer. The Transmission had to be either 1:4, 1:5.1, or 1:6.3.

After 4 revolutions of the crank, the markings on the transfercase looked like:

After 5 revs of the crank the transfer case markings looked like this :

Id say its pretty safe to say that I have the 5.1:1 granny T19. That suits me fine. Cam selection and rear gears (4.11) should make this truck plenty stout for off road firewood duty. More to follow. Thanks Guys! This community is the best!

Glad to be of any help, John.

Your truck sounds like the way that mine came.

It is very strong with just the stock cam and a proper straight up timing chain set.

Laden with firewood your truck shouldn't have any problem with traction either!

Good tires are going to be the limiting factor.

[StraightSix]

Glad to be of any help, John.

Your truck sounds like the way that mine came.

It is very strong with just the stock cam and a proper straight up timing chain set.

Laden with firewood your truck shouldn't have any problem with traction either!

Good tires are going to be the limiting factor.

Thanks for the reassuring words Jim. It's good to know I'm on the right track, and satisfying to know that the boys at ford in the mid 80s were pretty close to the mark.

I Got the truck off the trailer today. I loaded it with comealongs, but I was hoping to avoid the manual work unloading.

Some of you may recall that my bronco has a winch mounted on a front receiver hitch. I built it that way way back when so it could be moved around and used different places. That really paid off today! It turns out that the tow rig I used to pull the truck has two recievers stacked ontop of eachother. I had the trailer hitched in the lower receiver and I slid the winch into the upper. A little help from the jumper cables and I was able to unload under power. Big improvement!

I'm sure the winch will make its way into the front receiver of "one piece at a time", and if the truck gets a flatbed I'm sure to add provisions to mount a winch to the rear bumper independent of the main receiver.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Jim!

Even with a first ratio of 5.11:1, Ill be pleased. If it's the 4:1 ratio, I'll be tempted to swap in an NP435 that is sitting in my shop floor. The transfer case has a tag that reads 1345

I dont know much about the 1345, if its considered strong, robust, etc. If it's not a good case I'll consider Tcase swaps to either a 205 or one of the later chain drive cases. I assume that an NP208 isn't really appropriate for heavy duty use.

I didnt think they made an F250 4X4 in this era that wasn't a D50. Maybe I'm off base?

The truck does have AC, and I'll want to preserve that for sure.

I'm not familiar with hot fueling, but it must have an electric fuel pump because there is a note on the visor about a fuel pump inertia switch.

The axle code is C5. The rear axle hang tag reads "V131C 10 10 2 7B16.

Seems like a 4.10 open diff.

The first digit is usually covered by the flange nut, and a LS would show starting with an L

I'm pretty familiar with the various iterations of hot fuel handling even though my truck has a mechanical pump.

The inertia switch may prove problematic in very rough terrain.

It's a yellow wire that passes through the box with a plunger, usually located on the right side of the trans tunnel.

I can take pictures of the pump wiring section if you like.

There is also an oil pressure safety, which is wired adjacent to the sender at the back of the block, behind the EGR valve.

Glad it worked out for you unloading the truck.

I spent a lot of time dragging vehicles onto flatbeds and having to shake them off ....

[StraightSix]

Seems like a 4.10 open diff.

The first digit is usually covered by the flange nut, and a LS would show starting with an L

I'm pretty familiar with the various iterations of hot fuel handling even though my truck has a mechanical pump.

The inertia switch may prove problematic in very rough terrain.

It's a yellow wire that passes through the box with a plunger, usually located on the right side of the trans tunnel.

I can take pictures of the pump wiring section if you like.

There is also an oil pressure safety, which is wired adjacent to the sender at the back of the block, behind the EGR valve.

Glad it worked out for you unloading the truck.

I spent a lot of time dragging vehicles onto flatbeds and having to shake them off ....

Hi Guys. Now that the truck has been here for more than a week and I've had some time to look at it, I'd like to share some thoughts on where this is going.

The driveline is good, it spins from the balancer to the rear axle cover. It's a desirable driveline that is quite possibly ready to run. I hope to conduct a compression test soon. If I make this driveline run as is, I'll rebuild the factory carburetor and attempt to have the EGR function. Ofcourse, Ill use the DS2 with the factory curve. I'll likely eliminate the air pumps, they are locked up and the exhaust needs to be redone anyways. The DS2 harness is mostly gone. I don't mind putting the DS2 setup back on but I ultimately swapped to an MDS 6AL on the bronco to get away from issues with DS2 boxes. Im skeptical of the modern production ICMs. I dont mind dropping the cash to put an MSD setup in this truck, but the end goal is fuel injection. Anything I do that is expensive needs to be inline with the fuel injection goal. It seems like an HEI module with the DS2 dizzy might be a more cost effective way to make this engine run for the next 10,000 miles. Before doing the compression test, would you all pull the dizzy and use a priming tool to prime the oiling system?? The truck has been sitting for 5+ years.

The frame is good. It has some rust, but its all surface rust. I wire brushed the frame clean in the bad spots and I'm fine with what was underneath.

I've been working on a design for a light duty 6'4"× 8' flat bed specifically designed to compliment the load capabilities of an 8600 gvwr truck. The bed, as designed would weigh 740lbs with a 1/8" steel deck. Thats about 250lbs more than the factory bed, gate and bumper. For me, "One piece at a time" needs to be a flatbed.

The cab has deep dents and a lot of surface rust. Im leaning in to building this driveline and frame, but with a different cab and front clip. Hopefully the donor truck will come with a good wiring harness. Ofcourse, if I stumble on a good deal on a 250/350 with an efi 300 or 460, Ill buy that truck. Otherwise, anything with clean sheet metal from 87-91 seems like a good bet.

I need to run a new exhaust. I have both factory manifolds, but the passenger manifold has one broken stud at the collector. Ive considered pulling the manifold to machine out the broken stud, headers, and a new set of factory manifolds. Everything downstream of the manifolds is gone. If I run a new exhaust, Id like it to be compatible with EFI 460 factory heads, but I know the exhaust port shape is different. The carb setup is worth fixing to me, but its temporary. What would yall do?

Thanks for listening to my ramblings. - John

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Guys. Now that the truck has been here for more than a week and I've had some time to look at it, I'd like to share some thoughts on where this is going.

The driveline is good, it spins from the balancer to the rear axle cover. It's a desirable driveline that is quite possibly ready to run. I hope to conduct a compression test soon. If I make this driveline run as is, I'll rebuild the factory carburetor and attempt to have the EGR function. Ofcourse, Ill use the DS2 with the factory curve. I'll likely eliminate the air pumps, they are locked up and the exhaust needs to be redone anyways. The DS2 harness is mostly gone. I don't mind putting the DS2 setup back on but I ultimately swapped to an MDS 6AL on the bronco to get away from issues with DS2 boxes. Im skeptical of the modern production ICMs. I dont mind dropping the cash to put an MSD setup in this truck, but the end goal is fuel injection. Anything I do that is expensive needs to be inline with the fuel injection goal. It seems like an HEI module with the DS2 dizzy might be a more cost effective way to make this engine run for the next 10,000 miles. Before doing the compression test, would you all pull the dizzy and use a priming tool to prime the oiling system?? The truck has been sitting for 5+ years.

The frame is good. It has some rust, but its all surface rust. I wire brushed the frame clean in the bad spots and I'm fine with what was underneath.

I've been working on a design for a light duty 6'4"× 8' flat bed specifically designed to compliment the load capabilities of an 8600 gvwr truck. The bed, as designed would weigh 740lbs with a 1/8" steel deck. Thats about 250lbs more than the factory bed, gate and bumper. For me, "One piece at a time" needs to be a flatbed.

The cab has deep dents and a lot of surface rust. Im leaning in to building this driveline and frame, but with a different cab and front clip. Hopefully the donor truck will come with a good wiring harness. Ofcourse, if I stumble on a good deal on a 250/350 with an efi 300 or 460, Ill buy that truck. Otherwise, anything with clean sheet metal from 87-91 seems like a good bet.

I need to run a new exhaust. I have both factory manifolds, but the passenger manifold has one broken stud at the collector. Ive considered pulling the manifold to machine out the broken stud, headers, and a new set of factory manifolds. Everything downstream of the manifolds is gone. If I run a new exhaust, Id like it to be compatible with EFI 460 factory heads, but I know the exhaust port shape is different. The carb setup is worth fixing to me, but its temporary. What would yall do?

Thanks for listening to my ramblings. - John

If it were me I'd go with an HEI.

It's simple to wire and GM modules are really cheap compared to a good DS-II box.

MSD AL6 is a bad joke for a street vehicle IMHO.

Stay away from headers.

Do add a P,MGR starter.

New manifolds can be had for $45 on eBay., if you can't drill it out...

"Compatable with EFI heads" doesn't exist.

You either buy heads and EFI manifolds or you make it work with what you have now.

The manifolds don't end in the same place, and the header pipes are different.

I have separate flanges at the muffler.

Bill's EFI exhaust has a single flange with two pipes.

Either it goes to a collector (EFI) and a catalytic, or the muffler is 2x 2 1/2" in and single 3" out (carbed)

I made my system from a discontinued school bus muffler and a stainless universal Magnaflow tail pipe.

 

[Gary Lewis]

If it were me I'd go with an HEI.

It's simple to wire and GM modules are really cheap compared to a good DS-II box.

MSD AL6 is a bad joke for a street vehicle IMHO.

Stay away from headers.

Do add a P,MGR starter.

New manifolds can be had for $45 on eBay., if you can't drill it out...

"Compatable with EFI heads" doesn't exist.

You either buy heads and EFI manifolds or you make it work with what you have now.

The manifolds don't end in the same place, and the header pipes are different.

I have separate flanges at the muffler.

Bill's EFI exhaust has a single flange with two pipes.

Either it goes to a collector (EFI) and a catalytic, or the muffler is 2x 2 1/2" in and single 3" out (carbed)

I made my system from a discontinued school bus muffler and a stainless universal Magnaflow tail pipe.

I agree with Jim. If the goal is EFI I'd go HEI now to get it running. But I'd not go with EEC-IV, I'd go EEC-V as it will tell you via the OBD-II port what the problems are. And with the MAF input it really doesn't matter what you do with the engine.

I'm running L&L headers on Big Blue, but in truth the exhaust manifolds would have been as good - and quieter.

[salans7]

I agree with Jim. If the goal is EFI I'd go HEI now to get it running. But I'd not go with EEC-IV, I'd go EEC-V as it will tell you via the OBD-II port what the problems are. And with the MAF input it really doesn't matter what you do with the engine.

I'm running L&L headers on Big Blue, but in truth the exhaust manifolds would have been as good - and quieter.

Regarding cabs, my truck is technically a 1990 F350, but I went crazy and ditched all of the Bricknose stuff with exception to the rear seatbelts and the A/B-pillar moldings. I'm running the Bullnose sheet metal and dash/wiring from a 1986 donor truck.

Unless you're a die-hard Bullnose guy, keep the 1987 interior in the new cab (if it's an 87-91). Stay away from the 92-96 cabs as the firewall and dash mounts are pretty different and would require extra work to make the cab fit your interior/steering column.

I built my truck essentially from the ground up. It was a 351W/C6/4x2 truck that I converted to 460/T19/4x4. It's very easy to get carried away when you're building the truck you want/envision.

It's interesting that you have a 1345. I'm running a 1987 T-19 (5:1) from an F350 4x4 and it came with a BW1356 transfer case.

[StraightSix]

Regarding cabs, my truck is technically a 1990 F350, but I went crazy and ditched all of the Bricknose stuff with exception to the rear seatbelts and the A/B-pillar moldings. I'm running the Bullnose sheet metal and dash/wiring from a 1986 donor truck.

Unless you're a die-hard Bullnose guy, keep the 1987 interior in the new cab (if it's an 87-91). Stay away from the 92-96 cabs as the firewall and dash mounts are pretty different and would require extra work to make the cab fit your interior/steering column.

I built my truck essentially from the ground up. It was a 351W/C6/4x2 truck that I converted to 460/T19/4x4. It's very easy to get carried away when you're building the truck you want/envision.

It's interesting that you have a 1345. I'm running a 1987 T-19 (5:1) from an F350 4x4 and it came with a BW1356 transfer case.

Thank you all for the ideas, your experience with these vehicles definitely shows.

It sounds like I need to do some research on HEI ignition swaps.

on the factory carburetor - Ive read around on this forum and on four eye pride, it seems like this carb is essentially an annular booster vacuum secondary 600. From what I can tell, the carb is desirable for low rpm truck use, and in conjunction with the EGR and factory timing hopefully it will be able to produce double digit fuel economy unloaded on the highway. I have read that the rebuild kits for these carbs are no longer made with the 2 stage power valve being difficult to obtain. Does anyone know if a standard rebuild kit for a 1850 will supply the correct gaskets and small parts? Is there an option for a replacement 2 stage power valve, or do I need to plan to run a single stage? I recognize that a lot of the value of this carb is in the factory settings, but are there any factory settings/emissions features that are worth defeating during a rebuild? I think I read that the idle mix cannot be adjusted on these.

Ill focus my efforts on factory manifolds. If I have to rerun portions of the exhaust when the EFI heads come along down the road, that can just be a part of the plan. I know that I want to use the factory EFI intake, heads and manifolds. I still have a lot to learn about EMS.

on cab interchange - will 1980-1991 cabs all swap readily? I assume that putting an 87-91 dash in an 80-86 cab and front clip would not work because of issues with harness compatibility. I vastly prefer the looks of the bullnose trucks, and it seems that most of the difference is in the hood and front clip. can a bullnose front clip be installed with a bricknose cab/fire wall?

because I have a good dash and interior for a bricknose, Ill probably focus my efforts on those years for cab donors.

what do you all think about priming the oiling system before running a compression check?

Salans7 - how did you accomplish your front axle swap to 4x4? I need to find your thread!

Thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you all for the ideas, your experience with these vehicles definitely shows.

It sounds like I need to do some research on HEI ignition swaps.

on the factory carburetor - Ive read around on this forum and on four eye pride, it seems like this carb is essentially an annular booster vacuum secondary 600. From what I can tell, the carb is desirable for low rpm truck use, and in conjunction with the EGR and factory timing hopefully it will be able to produce double digit fuel economy unloaded on the highway. I have read that the rebuild kits for these carbs are no longer made with the 2 stage power valve being difficult to obtain. Does anyone know if a standard rebuild kit for a 1850 will supply the correct gaskets and small parts? Is there an option for a replacement 2 stage power valve, or do I need to plan to run a single stage? I recognize that a lot of the value of this carb is in the factory settings, but are there any factory settings/emissions features that are worth defeating during a rebuild? I think I read that the idle mix cannot be adjusted on these.

Ill focus my efforts on factory manifolds. If I have to rerun portions of the exhaust when the EFI heads come along down the road, that can just be a part of the plan. I know that I want to use the factory EFI intake, heads and manifolds. I still have a lot to learn about EMS.

on cab interchange - will 1980-1991 cabs all swap readily? I assume that putting an 87-91 dash in an 80-86 cab and front clip would not work because of issues with harness compatibility. I vastly prefer the looks of the bullnose trucks, and it seems that most of the difference is in the hood and front clip. can a bullnose front clip be installed with a bricknose cab/fire wall?

because I have a good dash and interior for a bricknose, Ill probably focus my efforts on those years for cab donors.

what do you all think about priming the oiling system before running a compression check?

Salans7 - how did you accomplish your front axle swap to 4x4? I need to find your thread!

Thanks!

The carb is closer to 635-650 CFM.

I have owned this truck since 1988 and never saw double digits with 4.10's and a T-19.

You really need the 4180 rebuild kit.

The gaskets on the metering plates are different and the factory carb is just different in many little ways.

Yeah Holley doesn't have a 2stage powervalve listed.

It doesn't really matter unless you have it to the floor all the time.

Just choose an 8-9 and you'll be fine.

I used to refer people to the Flemworld tutorial on tuning the 4180 (Mustang GT site)

It's gone, but you might dig it up on the way back machine or find the Hot Rod article it was based on.

Definitely drill & pull the idle mixture screws.

Or be an animal and chisel two chunks out of the base flange to get at them.

You want to be sure those passages are clean!

The other big difference between the 4180 and a generic 1460 like the 80457-S is the vented float bowls.

If you don't have ALL the vacuum/emissions/charcoal stuff the bowl vents are a liability that will dump fuel on a hot engine instead of into the carb throat..

The front clip swaps.

You have to change the mounting points for the lower rear of the fenders (bricks bolt through the front of the rocker)

I hope this helps.

If there's anything I didn't address plz LMK

 

[StraightSix]

The carb is closer to 635-650 CFM.

I have owned this truck since 1988 and never saw double digits with 4.10's and a T-19.

You really need the 4180 rebuild kit.

The gaskets on the metering plates are different and the factory carb is just different in many little ways.

Yeah Holley doesn't have a 2stage powervalve listed.

It doesn't really matter unless you have it to the floor all the time.

Just choose an 8-9 and you'll be fine.

I used to refer people to the Flemworld tutorial on tuning the 4180 (Mustang GT site)

It's gone, but you might dig it up on the way back machine or find the Hot Rod article it was based on.

Definitely drill & pull the idle mixture screws.

Or be an animal and chisel two chunks out of the base flange to get at them.

You want to be sure those passages are clean!

The other big difference between the 4180 and a generic 1460 like the 80457-S is the vented float bowls.

If you don't have ALL the vacuum/emissions/charcoal stuff the bowl vents are a liability that will dump fuel on a hot engine instead of into the carb throat..

The front clip swaps.

You have to change the mounting points for the lower rear of the fenders (bricks bolt through the front of the rocker)

I hope this helps.

If there's anything I didn't address plz LMK

Thank you Jim. Coming to a new platform is like drinking from a fire hose, your info and knowledge is extremely helpful. Thanks for helping me get my expectations on fuel economy in line.

I'm looking for a factory fit y pipe for this engine and struggling to find a P/N. I had just assumed walker would make a y pipe. I can fit everything from there back, but making a Y is probably beyond my fabrication limits. Does anyone know off hand if such a y pipe is made, or possibly have a P/N?