ratdude747 Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 Now that I'm using my Bullnose for boat dipping, one possible issue is that it's a 1WD truck. Since a 4x4 isn't in the cards (I'd have to sell the Bullnose and even then still be in the hole for anything decent), I figure upgrading the axle might be a viable option to prevent getting stuck on the ramp. I've read of people doing this upgrade 8.8's without re-shimming if they keep the gears the same; while I have toyed with re-gearing to something in the 3.2x range, I've concluded that 3.08 is fine (and if I need more, I really just need to get a beefier truck at the point). So, assuming that the above holds true, what's the best of these options: 1. Find a used Limited Slip carrier set and rebuild it (I've seen these on eBay on occasion for around $100-$150) 2. Buy a new carrier and swap that ($300+ IIRC) I'd also want to do axle bearings and seals at the same time, right? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 I'm not one for used gears and I feel that you'd probably be even money by the time you replaced the frictions and springs, but I don't know 8.8's. I know 9's and the bigger stuff like 10.25, D60/70/80, so I may be way off base. Not sure why you'd need to replace any bearings or seals unless the lip has worn a groove. In that case you'll be getting SpeediSleeve's as well. With a new carrier you're certainly going to shimming (not so bad if you know someone with a set and you just 'swap') I used to do that for friends with Holley jets and springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I'm not one for used gears and I feel that you'd probably be even money by the time you replaced the frictions and springs, but I don't know 8.8's. I know 9's and the bigger stuff like 10.25, D60/70/80, so I may be way off base. Not sure why you'd need to replace any bearings or seals unless the lip has worn a groove. In that case you'll be getting SpeediSleeve's as well. With a new carrier you're certainly going to shimming (not so bad if you know someone with a set and you just 'swap') I used to do that for friends with Holley jets and springs. this is the type of thing the trac loc is for. another good option is an auburn gear unit where traction goes to the path of most resistance as opposed to least. not really cheap to do it correctly yet far less than a new truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 this is the type of thing the trac loc is for. another good option is an auburn gear unit where traction goes to the path of most resistance as opposed to least. not really cheap to do it correctly yet far less than a new truck. I like a T-2 Torsen. They have them for the 8.8, but probably too much $$$ (nice in the snow, though!) https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Torsen-Limited-Slip-Differential-C157.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I like a T-2 Torsen. They have them for the 8.8, but probably too much $$$ (nice in the snow, though!) https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Torsen-Limited-Slip-Differential-C157.aspx any type of load balancing diff should do very well here. do NOT try a mini spool no matter how attractive the price may be. until you decide which way to go you might try the old trick of applying a "little" parking brake to crawl up the boat ramp. balancing the resistance whether by the brake drums or internally at the diff is very similar. but you do need enough grunt to overcome braking in general. just don't leave it on. get the boat up and out then release the brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 I like a T-2 Torsen. They have them for the 8.8, but probably too much $$$ (nice in the snow, though!) https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Torsen-Limited-Slip-Differential-C157.aspx Actually, they're about the same price as an auburn ($850-$900). Torsens are good indeed. New "traditional" LSDs are in the $450 range it seems. While I can get used carriers from late model mustangs (Still 8.8 31 spline) for $125 right now. Such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285926320074 (low miles too, but being a parted out /upgraded mustang, who knows what kind of miles ) But, $160-$225 for a new set of clutches that isn't generic Chinese ($120 if you go that route on eBay)... so I dunno. Seems the answer is "if it aint broke, don't fix it" and "buy an actual towing rig"... Is it really $400+ worth of improvement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Actually, they're about the same price as an auburn ($850-$900). Torsens are good indeed. New "traditional" LSDs are in the $450 range it seems. While I can get used carriers from late model mustangs (Still 8.8 31 spline) for $125 right now. Such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285926320074 (low miles too, but being a parted out /upgraded mustang, who knows what kind of miles ) But, $160-$225 for a new set of clutches that isn't generic Chinese ($120 if you go that route on eBay)... so I dunno. Seems the answer is "if it aint broke, don't fix it" and "buy an actual towing rig"... Is it really $400+ worth of improvement? to me yes! but it really depends on the user and the use. I have more than one truck, so I have a couple different options.one size does not fit all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Actually, they're about the same price as an auburn ($850-$900). Torsens are good indeed. New "traditional" LSDs are in the $450 range it seems. While I can get used carriers from late model mustangs (Still 8.8 31 spline) for $125 right now. Such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285926320074 (low miles too, but being a parted out /upgraded mustang, who knows what kind of miles ) But, $160-$225 for a new set of clutches that isn't generic Chinese ($120 if you go that route on eBay)... so I dunno. Seems the answer is "if it aint broke, don't fix it" and "buy an actual towing rig"... Is it really $400+ worth of improvement? I vote for a second 4x4 truck. Your truck appears to be in too nice a running shape to be sold to someone who may not appreciate its merits and pay top dollar. With Hagerty insurance and occasional boat pulling use it should be justifiable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I vote for a second 4x4 truck. Your truck appears to be in too nice a running shape to be sold to someone who may not appreciate its merits and pay top dollar. With Hagerty insurance and occasional boat pulling use it should be justifiable I've said this before, but I'm not a fan of clutch-type limited slips. In my experience before they are tight enough to be useful they are too tight to not be annoying. The issue I have with them too tight is cornering in snow. They try to scuff tires (like a spool) in turns until there's enough torque to slip the clutches. In snow there's not always enough torque so they cause a spin-out. I know that a lot of others aren't fans of automatic lockers, so I'm not going to say that you SHOUD go that route. But if it were me I'd put in a lunchbox locker as the low-buck option. Their on-road manners take some adjusting to, but personally I find them pretty easy to deal with. Certainly not invisible. But not hard to accept. But again, there are a lot of people who don't like them, so I'm not saying you would. Like Jim, I'd pick a Torsen (or Truetrac, same thing, different manufacturer) as the best option for this type of use. Pretty much completely invisible most of the time and quite effective when you need it. And when it isn't enough the trick of a few clicks on the e.brake works GREAT with them. This is what I have in Oswald. If you are replacing the carrier but not the gears you at least won't have to adjust the pinion depth, and that's probably the worst part of setting up gears. And I've heard of people not worrying about pattern, but just getting the backlash the same as it was before. That does take shimming, but if you get the same backlash (having not moved the pinion) that means you have the ring gear in the same place as it was before, so that should mean you'd have the same pattern. I'm not saying setting up gears is for everyone. I've done it twice now and I get why it's worth paying a shop to do it. But replacing the carrier without replacing the gears is about the easiest gear setup situation you'll get, so it's not a terrible place to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 I've said this before, but I'm not a fan of clutch-type limited slips. In my experience before they are tight enough to be useful they are too tight to not be annoying. The issue I have with them too tight is cornering in snow. They try to scuff tires (like a spool) in turns until there's enough torque to slip the clutches. In snow there's not always enough torque so they cause a spin-out. I know that a lot of others aren't fans of automatic lockers, so I'm not going to say that you SHOUD go that route. But if it were me I'd put in a lunchbox locker as the low-buck option. Their on-road manners take some adjusting to, but personally I find them pretty easy to deal with. Certainly not invisible. But not hard to accept. But again, there are a lot of people who don't like them, so I'm not saying you would. Like Jim, I'd pick a Torsen (or Truetrac, same thing, different manufacturer) as the best option for this type of use. Pretty much completely invisible most of the time and quite effective when you need it. And when it isn't enough the trick of a few clicks on the e.brake works GREAT with them. This is what I have in Oswald. If you are replacing the carrier but not the gears you at least won't have to adjust the pinion depth, and that's probably the worst part of setting up gears. And I've heard of people not worrying about pattern, but just getting the backlash the same as it was before. That does take shimming, but if you get the same backlash (having not moved the pinion) that means you have the ring gear in the same place as it was before, so that should mean you'd have the same pattern. I'm not saying setting up gears is for everyone. I've done it twice now and I get why it's worth paying a shop to do it. But replacing the carrier without replacing the gears is about the easiest gear setup situation you'll get, so it's not a terrible place to start. Honestly, if the standard LS diff were any good I'd say just buy an 8.8 in the right ratio complete and swap it in for the price of a couple of U-bolt's... How much could one of these cost? There were probably billions of 150 pick-ups and Broncos with this venerable axle 🤷♂️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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