Danny G Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 That ultrasonic cleaner sure seems to have done a number on those chromed pieces! I don't think I've ever seen a factory option for a gooseneck ball, but that one looks like a clean installation. Maybe Gary can confirm? Your wiper motor is the exact opposite of Vivek's rebuilt power steering pump, where they just polished the shaft, leaving it too small for a good press fit. "Damned if you do, damned if you don't"... I guess? Cardone has never had a good reputation, but tbf they're working with scrap to begin with. They used to offer a "upgraded" (Saginaw) power steering pump that fit the Ford C2 bracket and had a smaller shaft, so you could use your existing pulley. There was a little 'horseshoe' adapter bracket, and their longer shaft put the pulley in the right place. AFAIK, those haven't been seen in over 15 years, and I understand why there wouldn't be enough demand to keep on making them. Well gentleman I think I found the reason the PO couldn't swap fuel tanks or at least someone in the past took it apart to troubleshoot it and didn't realize that was a bad idea. The PO only had it a year so could have been anyone prior. Also found why no dash air potentially. The blend door here was closed and when I pressed on it it seems to be missing a hinge point. Asy cleaning up these gummy vac lines and labeling before I disconnect anything I am curious if these are supposed to be open or not. mm My secret weapon for cleaning these lines.. baby wipes 😂  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Well gentleman I think I found the reason the PO couldn't swap fuel tanks or at least someone in the past took it apart to troubleshoot it and didn't realize that was a bad idea. The PO only had it a year so could have been anyone prior. Also found why no dash air potentially. The blend door here was closed and when I pressed on it it seems to be missing a hinge point. Asy cleaning up these gummy vac lines and labeling before I disconnect anything I am curious if these are supposed to be open or not. mm My secret weapon for cleaning these lines.. baby wipes 😂 There is a member that makes a 3D printed hinge repair kit. I've never had to do mine, but it seems a lot easier than screwing around with pop rivets and a piano hinge. I hope you can find that selector. If you look in the MPC, the Motorcraft # will be listed alongside the actual P/N It's usually easier to turn one up that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 There is a member that makes a 3D printed hinge repair kit. I've never had to do mine, but it seems a lot easier than screwing around with pop rivets and a piano hinge. I hope you can find that selector. If you look in the MPC, the Motorcraft # will be listed alongside the actual P/N It's usually easier to turn one up that way. If I can't find a reasonable selector I may be able to fabricate something using the factory housing hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 If I can't find a reasonable selector I may be able to fabricate something using the factory housing hopefully. Went ahead and ordered AC parts and the tank selector switch from Rock Auto. $70 for the selector switch there and $88 at LMC. Got through the wiring under the dash got it cleaned labeled and sorted. Found some cut wires on the harness for the door switches. On the main harness in the same location, two wires at the light switch I believe to be the headlight power wires as there is added wires through the firewall related to this. For some reason a t tap was used to tie into the brake switch wire. I think this is the same spade terminal/red wire shoved into the fuse block. Most of the daisy chain of butt splices looks to be after market radio related. There is a zip wire running aft with one wire black with an orange line. May be a cargo light wire or something. I'll find out eventually. Green wire to the high beam switch is torn open and was rubbing on the cab metal. I'll splice that as well. A couple factory shut/short plugs on here. Wonder what options they were for. This pink electrical tape makes me feel like I need to open it up and look for shenanigans. Don't remember there being pink on my other factory harness lol. Dash side mounting brackets and driver door armrest support went through the ultrasonic cleaner today then prime and paint with some gloss black ceramic. I was going to nickel plate these but didn't have the salt and vinegar I needed to do it. So black it is. The rest of the dash supports are resting after being treated several times with acid. I will clean and paint those tomorrow. I'll be able to work more in the heat tomorrow as I discovered that the rear door window fits a 5000BTU AC that I propped in there tonight while doing the wiring and cleaning. I need to find a replacement firewall grommet or feed through style grommet for this oval hole the choke was punched through. Also... I need to find the correct chicken cable and mount for the truck, u less it didn't have one originally. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 There is a member that makes a 3D printed hinge repair kit. I've never had to do mine, but it seems a lot easier than screwing around with pop rivets and a piano hinge. I think I may mess with this with just a piece of seal material like a flap of epdm or rubber in lieu of a hinge. Should be able to use adhesive to bond it or even maybe a flexible piece of plastic welded on. What's the worst that could happen right lol. Just need to flex a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 There is a member that makes a 3D printed hinge repair kit. I've never had to do mine, but it seems a lot easier than screwing around with pop rivets and a piano hinge. I think I may mess with this with just a piece of seal material like a flap of epdm or rubber in lieu of a hinge. Should be able to use adhesive to bond it or even maybe a flexible piece of plastic welded on. What's the worst that could happen right lol. Just need to flex a little bit. T-tap into brake wire and holes under dash sounds like a trailer brake controller to me.... As for the plenum door, it needs to seal (both sides) geometry is pretty critical and access is impossible when installed. There's more than a couple of threads about members adventures with that one, I think Gary even did his own writeup. But if it's not attached at all now it can't be any worse, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 T-tap into brake wire and holes under dash sounds like a trailer brake controller to me.... As for the plenum door, it needs to seal (both sides) geometry is pretty critical and access is impossible when installed. There's more than a couple of threads about members adventures with that one, I think Gary even did his own writeup. But if it's not attached at all now it can't be any worse, right? I did report on repairing mine, but the writeup we have in the documentation section is from James191145. You can see it at Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair. And there's info on purchasing the hinge that Chris/ckuske and his friend designed in there. If I were to do it again that's what I'd do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 7 Author Share Posted July 7 I did report on repairing mine, but the writeup we have in the documentation section is from James191145. You can see it at Documentation/HVAC/Blend Door Repair. And there's info on purchasing the hinge that Chris/ckuske and his friend designed in there. If I were to do it again that's what I'd do. Further workin on getting this ductwork apart and pulled back the carpet and I could smell that musty wet dog smell. I knew when I found any rust cancer this is where I would find it since everything else was clean for the most part. Door drains are salvageable. And so is this. It's not bad at all. Some grind work and some new coating and we are golden. Started digging out the old dry crumbly seam sealer as well so I can get that cleaned out and nee seal applied. To be expected on these old trucks they just drove screws through the floor without any sealant. Water does what water does after that. This access door though is rusted straight through. I'll need to find a replacement. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 Further workin on getting this ductwork apart and pulled back the carpet and I could smell that musty wet dog smell. I knew when I found any rust cancer this is where I would find it since everything else was clean for the most part. Door drains are salvageable. And so is this. It's not bad at all. Some grind work and some new coating and we are golden. Started digging out the old dry crumbly seam sealer as well so I can get that cleaned out and nee seal applied. To be expected on these old trucks they just drove screws through the floor without any sealant. Water does what water does after that. This access door though is rusted straight through. I'll need to find a replacement. also pay close attention to the lower part of the cowl. with the duct out and firewall insulation removed, this is the time to find out whether the cowl caulking has failed and allowed rusting to get started. this can be a real pain the get seam sealer out through what access is available but still very important. treat to whole seam for rust before re sealing. the cab side of the cowl and firewall are one piece with the engine bay side of the cowl welded to it. this seam can rust through and often it rusts through to the interior. most common in bullnose trucks parked near or under trees and left to die. some die! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 also pay close attention to the lower part of the cowl. with the duct out and firewall insulation removed, this is the time to find out whether the cowl caulking has failed and allowed rusting to get started. this can be a real pain the get seam sealer out through what access is available but still very important. treat to whole seam for rust before re sealing. the cab side of the cowl and firewall are one piece with the engine bay side of the cowl welded to it. this seam can rust through and often it rusts through to the interior. most common in bullnose trucks parked near or under trees and left to die. some die! Yep. Pull the rubber drains right off and flush the down out with a garden hose to remove the muck. Look with an inspection camera, or a mirror if you don't have one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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