ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Jim, Darth's jack will lift the 10.25" rear axle high enough to get a blow 215/85R-16 off and on. It also worked pretty well to get the spare down on it's carrier (remembering that I have the dually rims with their deep offset). I'm not sure why my jack won't unscrew far enough to lift a stock 32" tire. Maybe my jack has erectile dysfunction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 I'm not sure why my jack won't unscrew far enough to lift a stock 32" tire. Maybe my jack has erectile dysfunction? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif Maybe it's the wrong jack? The blue one that was in the F-350 was definitely bigger than the one I pulled from an 83 F-150 in the junk yard. The blue one is stamped SMP the grey one from the F-150 is stamped with an "A". Gary is going to need a sub section in the documents for jacks lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 I'm not sure why my jack won't unscrew far enough to lift a stock 32" tire. Maybe my jack has erectile dysfunction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 I'm not sure why my jack won't unscrew far enough to lift a stock 32" tire. Maybe my jack has erectile dysfunction? Maybe it's the wrong jack? The blue one that was in the F-350 was definitely bigger than the one I pulled from an 83 F-150 in the junk yard. The blue one is stamped SMP the grey one from the F-150 is stamped with an "A". Gary is going to need a sub section in the documents for jacks lol. It's the one it rolled off the line with. 🤷♂️ I'm not sure if bigger wheels got bigger jacks, and they just screwed up on my truck? Hardly makes any sense to have multiple models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 I'm not sure why my jack won't unscrew far enough to lift a stock 32" tire. Maybe my jack has erectile dysfunction? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif Maybe it's the wrong jack? The blue one that was in the F-350 was definitely bigger than the one I pulled from an 83 F-150 in the junk yard. The blue one is stamped SMP the grey one from the F-150 is stamped with an "A". Gary is going to need a sub section in the documents for jacks lol. Working this harness that Inpulled out. The yellow wires I have marked up with areas of concern. Either damaged or the twist/bends seem compromising. I have a full 1000ft of SXL 16AWG in 10 colors (100' ea) enroute. These yellow wires(W37) are the ones that go to the inertia interrupter switch in the cab to cut off the fuel pumps. They run right from the switch through the firewall grommet to connecter C144. Because the jacket damage goes through into the conductor about 3 inches from the grommet, AND I want to pot the grommet when I'm done for fluid protection, I am going to splice in a repair wire on the cab side. C144 is corroded and crumbly so I'll replace that with a waterproof 2 pin connector. It drives me nuts that most of these single wire connectors are just glorified blade terminals completely exposed to the elements. If possible I will replace these to, but I think they are required in this configuration. If I remember correctly this green and purple stripe wire and black wire go to a connector that was by the accumulator (label fell off). I depinned the "connectors" because the blade terminals were rusted and wire was corroding. I have had these corrode completely through and it's hard to remove. Not to mention water will wick down the wire strands compromising the wire. This is why all the open wires, or jacket nicks to troubleshoot are so detrimental. Corrosion= resistance=heat/badsignal=fire or electricak failures. Any open connector left is getting cleaned and then the dielectric treatment. My original school of thought was a harness disconnect at the firewall. I still want to do that but I want to put it in a more ergonomic spot. Essentially everything under the hood at a minimum is going to be custom but still color coded as close as possible. I want to control the routes and keep them clean and direct instead of just laying over everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 Working this harness that Inpulled out. The yellow wires I have marked up with areas of concern. Either damaged or the twist/bends seem compromising. I have a full 1000ft of SXL 16AWG in 10 colors (100' ea) enroute. These yellow wires(W37) are the ones that go to the inertia interrupter switch in the cab to cut off the fuel pumps. They run right from the switch through the firewall grommet to connecter C144. Because the jacket damage goes through into the conductor about 3 inches from the grommet, AND I want to pot the grommet when I'm done for fluid protection, I am going to splice in a repair wire on the cab side. C144 is corroded and crumbly so I'll replace that with a waterproof 2 pin connector. It drives me nuts that most of these single wire connectors are just glorified blade terminals completely exposed to the elements. If possible I will replace these to, but I think they are required in this configuration. If I remember correctly this green and purple stripe wire and black wire go to a connector that was by the accumulator (label fell off). I depinned the "connectors" because the blade terminals were rusted and wire was corroding. I have had these corrode completely through and it's hard to remove. Not to mention water will wick down the wire strands compromising the wire. This is why all the open wires, or jacket nicks to troubleshoot are so detrimental. Corrosion= resistance=heat/badsignal=fire or electricak failures. Any open connector left is getting cleaned and then the dielectric treatment. My original school of thought was a harness disconnect at the firewall. I still want to do that but I want to put it in a more ergonomic spot. Essentially everything under the hood at a minimum is going to be custom but still color coded as close as possible. I want to control the routes and keep them clean and direct instead of just laying over everything. Armorall cleaning wipes do well in the grommets. Flexibility is back and it looks darn near new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 Armorall cleaning wipes do well in the grommets. Flexibility is back and it looks darn near new. Well got this what I'll call a fuel harness sorted out and piece mealed back together. The tan striped wire is very much the pink striped resistance wire. It caught fire at some point. The yellow wire is the cut off form the interior switch. It should be fuse linked at the starter contactor but it was just cut and hanging. So that wire had no power. At some part near that relay it should be at a splice with a run going to the ignition switch (S110). I'll have to crawl under the hood and sniff that out. Essentially 3 splices in this harness (S110, S112 and S160) were either cut open and corroded or just plain cut out. There is a black wire in the same terminal as the pink and black hashed wire of the cut off relay. I have not found any documentation on what this one was for. S160 S112 S110 - completely gone but these wires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 Well got this what I'll call a fuel harness sorted out and piece mealed back together. The tan striped wire is very much the pink striped resistance wire. It caught fire at some point. The yellow wire is the cut off form the interior switch. It should be fuse linked at the starter contactor but it was just cut and hanging. So that wire had no power. At some part near that relay it should be at a splice with a run going to the ignition switch (S110). I'll have to crawl under the hood and sniff that out. Essentially 3 splices in this harness (S110, S112 and S160) were either cut open and corroded or just plain cut out. There is a black wire in the same terminal as the pink and black hashed wire of the cut off relay. I have not found any documentation on what this one was for. S160 S112 S110 - completely gone but these wires For some reason Ford chose to run this harness around the front of the engine bay over the radiator. It's not going back in that way. The pink and yellow wires hook up to the starter contactor and then can make their way into the firewall. I am going to be adding a fuse/relay box on the passenger side which will facilitate this even more. This keeps the yellow wire from needing to cross the engine bay at all because the relay is on the same side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Author Share Posted July 14 For some reason Ford chose to run this harness around the front of the engine bay over the radiator. It's not going back in that way. The pink and yellow wires hook up to the starter contactor and then can make their way into the firewall. I am going to be adding a fuse/relay box on the passenger side which will facilitate this even more. This keeps the yellow wire from needing to cross the engine bay at all because the relay is on the same side. I'm really digging how these dash frames are looking. I have the support bars and the heat shield for the passenger fire wall harness drying now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Well got this what I'll call a fuel harness sorted out and piece mealed back together. The tan striped wire is very much the pink striped resistance wire. It caught fire at some point. There is a black wire in the same terminal as the pink and black hashed wire of the cut off relay. I have not found any documentation on what this one was for. That's one tricky thing about the EVTM. In order to 'simplify' it only shows the wires of the circuit being discussed. There may be connectors that have multiple circuits, or cases where a splice is shown, but they usually show a wire circuit # and "see pg 123" with a figure like a triangle. Someone really went to town! 🤡 🙄 I don't know how it could have run with the inertia switch disconnected. Be glad they weren't a meth fiend looking for where it was possessed! 🤣 We used to have an avionics guy that was really good at building harnesses. Vipertech was his username, I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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