ArdWrknTrk Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 I will be back Friday. If the weather holds out on Saturday its going to be pressure wash the under carriage then change the rear diff oil and leaking seal, the C6 filter and leaking seal, and the oil/oil pan seal. With everything changed out and cleaned up it will make seeing any other leaks easier. Anything requiring dropping the transmission or pulling the engine will have to wait. Heads, manifold and valve covers will be replaced at some point for aluminum (less the valve covers) so those get to wait too. That gets me running and feeling more comfortable about it. I need to also pull the passenger tire and check the hub. I'm thinking I have a bearing going bad, hopefully there is a hub set on the front because I don't think I have the tooling to press out and press in a new bearing into the axle 😂. I hear it's possible to change a pan gasket in-situ with a 2x4 460. Just not able to if you have TTB in the way of dropping the pan. I got pretty nice aluminum valve covers for (I think) $60 by watching eBay, and throwing in a last second bid. Those and some red silicone gaskets work SO much better at keeping the oil in, it's amazing 🤩 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 I hear it's possible to change a pan gasket in-situ with a 2x4 460. Just not able to if you have TTB in the way of dropping the pan. I got pretty nice aluminum valve covers for (I think) $60 by watching eBay, and throwing in a last second bid. Those and some red silicone gaskets work SO much better at keeping the oil in, it's amazing 🤩 Hope the oil pan seal can wait. It is a chore... can be done without pulling the engine on a RWD..... but the oil pump needs to be dropped. Also I recommend the 1 piece Ford racing gasket for the 460. I have a couple of videos on this. Great time to address rear main seal leak.... IF ANY... else don't wake up that beast ;) When I had my 460 on the stand, I didn't touch the rear main seal as it wasn't leaking. Jim had the same thoughts back then. My other 460 on Big Blue 2WD was a different story. The rear main seal was POURING OUT. Was losing a quart every 50 miles, and he drove it that way from Washington state!! The previous owner used to call the truck Exxon Valdez... ... Had to be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 Hope the oil pan seal can wait. It is a chore... can be done without pulling the engine on a RWD..... but the oil pump needs to be dropped. Also I recommend the 1 piece Ford racing gasket for the 460. I have a couple of videos on this. Great time to address rear main seal leak.... IF ANY... else don't wake up that beast ;) When I had my 460 on the stand, I didn't touch the rear main seal as it wasn't leaking. Jim had the same thoughts back then. My other 460 on Big Blue 2WD was a different story. The rear main seal was POURING OUT. Was losing a quart every 50 miles, and he drove it that way from Washington state!! The previous owner used to call the truck Exxon Valdez... ... Had to be done. Rope style RMS. You really need to drop the crank to pull it through. I wouldn't want to attempt this with the engine in the truck, but I don't like any more frustration than I already get every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 Rope style RMS. You really need to drop the crank to pull it through. I wouldn't want to attempt this with the engine in the truck, but I don't like any more frustration than I already get every day. I think the 83 and newer 460s used a 2 piece rubber seal.. the seal I used was actually metal core + rubber https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=122691&cc=1126257&pt=5604&jsn=976&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 It was a painful job to say the least with engine in the truck. The previous guy who did the seal installed it flush with the block... hence the major leak. The bottom half of course came with the bearing cap. The top half was stuck in the block. I had to loosen all main bearing caps and still no bueno. I kept hitting the metal core with a punch for a good 10-15 mins and when it broke loose, my heart rate finally dropped. To facilitate thetop half installation, Felpro gives you a paper/plastic guide to push the seal so the block doesn't rip the seal. I ripped the first seal since I didn't follow instructions... had a backup one that came with the truck. The seal was installed with the customary 3/8" overlap. The first drive after the job was done was nerve wracking, but I got lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 I think the 83 and newer 460s used a 2 piece rubber seal.. the seal I used was actually metal core + rubber https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=122691&cc=1126257&pt=5604&jsn=976&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 It was a painful job to say the least with engine in the truck. The previous guy who did the seal installed it flush with the block... hence the major leak. The bottom half of course came with the bearing cap. The top half was stuck in the block. I had to loosen all main bearing caps and still no bueno. I kept hitting the metal core with a punch for a good 10-15 mins and when it broke loose, my heart rate finally dropped. To facilitate thetop half installation, Felpro gives you a paper/plastic guide to push the seal so the block doesn't rip the seal. I ripped the first seal since I didn't follow instructions... had a backup one that came with the truck. The seal was installed with the customary 3/8" overlap. The first drive after the job was done was nerve wracking, but I got lucky. The block changed in '79 when it became external balance. D9TE. While not technically a 'rope' it does need to be installed *before* the crank main caps, or you have to pull it through with a special tool, and the ends NEED to be offset from the joint or it WILL leak. (trust me on this) Dropping the crank while still in the truck is damn near impossible with 4wd. No matter, I don't want to think about doing it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 The previous owner used to call the truck Exxon Valdez... http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif... Had to be done. That made me laugh out loud in the airport. Here's what I saw when I crawled under the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 The previous owner used to call the truck Exxon Valdez... ... Had to be done. That made me laugh out loud in the airport. Here's what I saw when I crawled under the truck. Up north we call that automatic rust proofing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 Up north we call that automatic rust proofing! When I bought the truck, I knew there was a RMS leak... I told him... "no big deal"... My 302 on the Bronco leaks a little too... I'll live with that.... After I brought it home, I noticed the entire underside.. I mean every nook and cranny was covered with oil, except moving parts (like driveshaft, hub) I asked the PO if he had undercoated the truck... He had a big laugh and said when he drove it from Washington, he also towed his project Camaro on a UHAUL trailer and the entire UHAUL trailer and the Camaro's bumper was a complete mess... He had to pressure wash the UHAUL trailer before turning it in ... when I realized how bad the leak was (quart/50 miles), I knew I was dealing with a different animal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 When I bought the truck, I knew there was a RMS leak... I told him... "no big deal"... My 302 on the Bronco leaks a little too... I'll live with that.... After I brought it home, I noticed the entire underside.. I mean every nook and cranny was covered with oil, except moving parts (like driveshaft, hub) I asked the PO if he had undercoated the truck... He had a big laugh and said when he drove it from Washington, he also towed his project Camaro on a UHAUL trailer and the entire UHAUL trailer and the Camaro's bumper was a complete mess... He had to pressure wash the UHAUL trailer before turning it in ... when I realized how bad the leak was (quart/50 miles), I knew I was dealing with a different animal. Wow! 🤯 I thought my truck was bad when I had to add a quart every couple of thousand miles.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 Wow! 🤯 I thought my truck was bad when I had to add a quart every couple of thousand miles.... Here we go. Definitely have parasitic drain in this truck with the shape of the wiring. Ductwork is actually out. The heater core looks newer but I'm not going to trust it. The coolant looks nasty anyway. Speaking of coolant there are all these hard nodules everywhere on this core. Pulled the junk out of the whole here. Not too bad, don't see anything so far of major concern other than the sharp metal I found with my finger... Scrubbed that out with a brush and Iodine. I never knew there was a rubber boot down here. I'm going to have to spray this out with water and a scrub brush. It seems the kick panel access door would have been a maintenance hatch for this. Say every oil change open and clean out this cavity. Ford could have used a leveling compound to seal and direct everything out that hole... Which looks to just fall onto the quarter panel/rocker anyway Some rust to deal with at the top mounting points for the heater core box. The way it was installed, not surprised. Disconnect and you guarantee liquid to sit here, including rain and water from car washing. IDK what area/part this is but it's holding dirt as well and I need to clean it out. I may have to pull the wheel well liner to access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts