ArdWrknTrk Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 interesting subject about. I just last week noticed a small leak steaming from the aluminum side if my plastic tanked rad that I put in over 20 years ago. so now am looking for one. most likely going with a Murray or spectra depending on availability. havent looked yet. Matt, have you considered a pair of locking pliers to pinch the 20 yo gasket tighter into the head tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Matt, have you considered a pair of locking pliers to pinch the 20 yo gasket tighter into the head tank? yes, I have done that trick before, but this one is not coming through the tank to core gasket. it's coming through the area that looks to be epoxied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 yes, I have done that trick before, but this one is not coming through the tank to core gasket. it's coming through the area that looks to be epoxied. Because of a cracked seam/weld, or did something drill a hole in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Because of a cracked seam/weld, or did something drill a hole in it? well, it has not been messed with in over 20 years. and as I have not even pulled the shroud back, I'm not certain of much more than it was coming out through the core under the shroud. too many projects being juggled at this time. is not low and it's not freezing so I pulled it to the side to do the next trans. three trans and five v8s in line right now. trying to get three blocks to machine shop before I take five days to go to Maine. then back to assembly. actually, busier than I want to be. the only block currently there is a sbc getting ready for the 383 stroker build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 And you think aluminum is less prone to corrosion than brass? Keep the coolant changed every 5 years and if your water is hard use distilled. I see brass and bronze all over vintage yachts and powerboats. Never aluminum, even though it was everywhere leading up to WWII Chrome, because chrome oxide is self healing and creates a shell. But shiny surfaces don't shed heat. That's why any good aluminum radiator is anodized black. Speaking of galvanic corrosion between engine block (iron) and the radiator, Aluminum should fare better than Brass or copper. As you said, fresh coolant should prevent this so it probably doesn't matter on a well maintained vehicle. Speaking of environmental corrosion, I agree aluminum is probably worse vs copper or brass/bronze. His issue appears to be a fatigue crack related failure though from all the heating and cooling cycles. Aluminum is just about the worst metal when it comes to accumulating "plastic deformation". Copper or Brass will be significantly more robust in that department. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Speaking of galvanic corrosion between engine block (iron) and the radiator, Aluminum should fare better than Brass or copper. As you said, fresh coolant should prevent this so it probably doesn't matter on a well maintained vehicle. Speaking of environmental corrosion, I agree aluminum is probably worse vs copper or brass/bronze. His issue appears to be a fatigue crack related failure though from all the heating and cooling cycles. Aluminum is just about the worst metal when it comes to accumulating "plastic deformation". Copper or Brass will be significantly more robust in that department. Up here the mag chloride brine the DOT puts on the road will eat the fins right out of the heat exchanger. Plastic deformation is literally the ability if a metal to yield without failure, whereas elastic deformation is the ability to flex or otherwise shift, and return to normal (prior) state. Plastic deformation does not equal failure, unless the point is rigidity. (In which case they should me using magnesium/beryllium or something stiff like that) While aluminum can work harden and become brittle, proper choice of alloy, filler and annealing after welding would virtually eliminate that possibility. You are suggesting that Champion uses crap material and has poor process control. (which may be the case. I've never had to deal with one) But they should stop blowing their own horn, if they have this sort of failure rate, are informed of it, don't do anything about it, and send out another batch that are just as bad as they know the first ones are/were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Up here the mag chloride brine the DOT puts on the road will eat the fins right out of the heat exchanger. Plastic deformation is literally the ability if a metal to yield without failure, whereas elastic deformation is the ability to flex or otherwise shift, and return to normal (prior) state. Plastic deformation does not equal failure, unless the point is rigidity. (In which case they should me using magnesium/beryllium or something stiff like that) While aluminum can work harden and become brittle, proper choice of alloy, filler and annealing after welding would virtually eliminate that possibility. You are suggesting that Champion uses crap material and has poor process control. (which may be the case. I've never had to deal with one) But they should stop blowing their own horn, if they have this sort of failure rate, are informed of it, don't do anything about it, and send out another batch that are just as bad as they know the first ones are/were. A picture of “passenger side tank to fin joint” would help… looks to be a weld… what could go wrong in process controls on a weld Copper is vastly superior to aluminum on creep resistance. Aluminum is just not a good material to be temperature cycled unless it’s adequately designed. I’m running the original radiators on all the vehicles I have. Probably good to start hoarding these when I find parts ruins. I know the dentside radiator is copper. Is the bullnose factory radiator copper ? Haven’t paid attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 A picture of “passenger side tank to fin joint” would help… looks to be a weld… what could go wrong in process controls on a weld Copper is vastly superior to aluminum on creep resistance. Aluminum is just not a good material to be temperature cycled unless it’s adequately designed. I’m running the original radiators on all the vehicles I have. Probably good to start hoarding these when I find parts ruins. I know the dentside radiator is copper. Is the bullnose factory radiator copper ? Haven’t paid attention. But aluminum is a better heat sink than brass. If we wanted to get stupid we would make them of silver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 A picture of “passenger side tank to fin joint” would help… looks to be a weld… what could go wrong in process controls on a weld Copper is vastly superior to aluminum on creep resistance. Aluminum is just not a good material to be temperature cycled unless it’s adequately designed. I’m running the original radiators on all the vehicles I have. Probably good to start hoarding these when I find parts ruins. I know the dentside radiator is copper. Is the bullnose factory radiator copper ? Haven’t paid attention. Where the fin tubes are crimped and sealed to/in the tank end. Not a weld location as far as I know... same construction as a plastic tanked radiator. M 1984 radiator was black painted brass... I think the 1985-1986 was as well (based on pics I've seen) despite the newer mounting which was used on plastic tanked 1987+ radiators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Where the fin tubes are crimped and sealed to/in the tank end. Not a weld location as far as I know... same construction as a plastic tanked radiator. M 1984 radiator was black painted brass... I think the 1985-1986 was as well (based on pics I've seen) despite the newer mounting which was used on plastic tanked 1987+ radiators. Darth's was/is aluminum with crimped on plastic tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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