ckuske Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 While working on my Speed Control, I noticed that the male (?) connector at C305A is not looking great. The retaining clips are broken off, and some of the male pins look damaged and slightly tarnished/corroded. While test driving my Speed Control the other day, I had to pull over because I signaled at a stop light and there was no "click" from the flasher, and the light didn't come on on the instrument cluster. I pulled over and pressed the connector together, and all was well. Right now, it is only working because of the friction in the connector holding it together, which is not good. All that being said, I can't find the part number for this connector. The female side of the connector is good because i put a new switch in last year. But I want to replace the male side of the connector, and I cannot find hide nor hair of it on the internet at all. I can't find the part number - maybe Gary will embarrass me and point me to it in the MPC , but I don't see it. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Even if we could find it in the MPC I don't think you'll find it NOS. Why don't I send you one? In the pic below I've circled the latches, which are on the part I wouldn't have called "female". But is that the one you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 Even if we could find it in the MPC I don't think you'll find it NOS. Why don't I send you one? In the pic below I've circled the latches, which are on the part I wouldn't have called "female". But is that the one you need? 2024 commentary aside, I see male pins in the side of the connector that is broken (in other words, the side of the connector that the switch pigtail plugs INTO). Even though the pins are male inside the connector, since they are recessed and "receive" the switch, that makes it female? Boy, these couple sentences have all sorts of unintended connotations. Short answer, yes, that's the one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 2024 commentary aside, I see male pins in the side of the connector that is broken (in other words, the side of the connector that the switch pigtail plugs INTO). Even though the pins are male inside the connector, since they are recessed and "receive" the switch, that makes it female? Boy, these couple sentences have all sorts of unintended connotations. Short answer, yes, that's the one. So, you have bad pins as well as a bad connector? Happy to send the connector with pins in and several inches of wire attached to them. How long do you want the wire to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 So, you have bad pins as well as a bad connector? Happy to send the connector with pins in and several inches of wire attached to them. How long do you want the wire to be? I don't think the pins are bad necessarily, they're just sort of ugly. When I remove the pins from the current connector, I'll look at them and replace them as needed. If you send the connector with three or four inches of wire, that will allow for extra layers of the onion to be addressed if they present themselves. I think the main issue is I just need those retaining clips to keep everything mated and happy. Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 I don't think the pins are bad necessarily, they're just sort of ugly. When I remove the pins from the current connector, I'll look at them and replace them as needed. If you send the connector with three or four inches of wire, that will allow for extra layers of the onion to be addressed if they present themselves. I think the main issue is I just need those retaining clips to keep everything mated and happy. Thank you!!! Welcome. I hope to get it out tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 While working on my Speed Control, I noticed that the male (?) connector at C305A is not looking great. The retaining clips are broken off, and some of the male pins look damaged and slightly tarnished/corroded. I had to pull over because I signaled at a stop light and there was no "click" from the flasher, and the light didn't come on on the instrument cluster. I pulled over and pressed the connector together, and all was well. Right now, it is only working because of the friction in the connector holding it together, which is not good. Are the females loose? If the pins are corroded try some De-Oxit D5 and work it on and off a few times then flush it out with the same tuner cleaner. Did you ever consider just running a ty-wrap around the connector, through the wires on each side? Thats what I have to do with my blower motor, because I've changed the pigtail twice and it keeps cracking the bail/latch off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 While working on my Speed Control, I noticed that the male (?) connector at C305A is not looking great. The retaining clips are broken off, and some of the male pins look damaged and slightly tarnished/corroded. I had to pull over because I signaled at a stop light and there was no "click" from the flasher, and the light didn't come on on the instrument cluster. I pulled over and pressed the connector together, and all was well. Right now, it is only working because of the friction in the connector holding it together, which is not good. Are the females loose? If the pins are corroded try some De-Oxit D5 and work it on and off a few times then flush it out with the same tuner cleaner. Did you ever consider just running a ty-wrap around the connector, through the wires on each side? Thats what I have to do with my blower motor, because I've changed the pigtail twice and it keeps cracking the bail/latch off. Yep, the pins seem to be stable when you check for loose wires, etc. Now that you mention it, connector just doesn’t seem to accept much of the connection. There isn’t much depth in the pins before it seems to bottom out and not go together anymore, which is what the connector come apart easily. I guess I need to check the pins again, and make sure there isn’t some junk at the bottom of each connector shell. Good suggestion on the toes, that was going to be my backup plan. And yep, I’ll be giving all the pins a bath in contact cleaner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Yep, the pins seem to be stable when you check for loose wires, etc. Now that you mention it, connector just doesn’t seem to accept much of the connection. There isn’t much depth in the pins before it seems to bottom out and not go together anymore, which is what the connector come apart easily. I guess I need to check the pins again, and make sure there isn’t some junk at the bottom of each connector shell. Good suggestion on the toes, that was going to be my backup plan. And yep, I’ll be giving all the pins a bath in contact cleaner! Use something that lubricates and leaves a film that protects against further oxidation . That's why I use tuner cleaner over contact cleaner 3/4 of the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 Use something that lubricates and leaves a film that protects against further oxidation . That's why I use tuner cleaner over contact cleaner 3/4 of the time I’ll do that, thanks for the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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