Clocking A 3G? Help!

[mat in tn]

I have dozens of hammers from tiny chasing hammers for engraving to a #24 beast of a rock splitting maul!

(more than a few rubber mallets and dead blows)

I had a 20 lb. sledge, but I only used it as a novelty door stop. I gave it to my sil when i moved here.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had a 20 lb. sledge, but I only used it as a novelty door stop. I gave it to my sil when i moved here.

I bet he has big shoulders and a strong back!

[Tarheel Blue]

If I remember correctly, you’re trying to clock the wrong half. The casing that has the mounting ears is the half that rotates. And yes, they can be quite a challenge. Imagine how it was mounted, and the bottom of the circle is where condensation will collect and form rust. That’s going to be the problem area although the entire windings assembly is a very tight fit, even when new. Took me 3-4 days of Seafoam Deep Creep and a little tap tap every time I walked by.

[Gary Lewis]

If I remember correctly, you’re trying to clock the wrong half. The casing that has the mounting ears is the half that rotates. And yes, they can be quite a challenge. Imagine how it was mounted, and the bottom of the circle is where condensation will collect and form rust. That’s going to be the problem area although the entire windings assembly is a very tight fit, even when new. Took me 3-4 days of Seafoam Deep Creep and a little tap tap every time I walked by.

Thanks, Kurt. I am trying to turn the casing with the mounting ears, but you are exactly right - the point in the casing that is down when mounted is where it is binding. I'd not thought about that being where the water gathers, but it makes sense.

So I'll do as you did - hit it again with PB Blaster and a deadblow hammer each time I walk by and eventually it'll come loose.

Thanks!

[Tarheel Blue]

Thanks, Kurt. I am trying to turn the casing with the mounting ears, but you are exactly right - the point in the casing that is down when mounted is where it is binding. I'd not thought about that being where the water gathers, but it makes sense.

So I'll do as you did - hit it again with PB Blaster and a deadblow hammer each time I walk by and eventually it'll come loose.

Thanks!

Patience is a virtue!

And maybe try a very small metal hammer to “tap” with. Metal to metal will transfer better shock waves than rubber to metal.

Very light taps over however many days it takes. It’ll come loose.

[Gary Lewis]

Patience is a virtue!

And maybe try a very small metal hammer to “tap” with. Metal to metal will transfer better shock waves than rubber to metal.

Very light taps over however many days it takes. It’ll come loose.

My father was wont to say "Patience is my one long suit" with a wry smile that meant "I know that's not true". I can't say that he passed much patience on to me, maybe 'cause he didn't have much to spare after I came along. But I have a can of PB Blaster and a small ball pein hammer and I'll give the thing a squirt and a whack each time I pass by.

[ArdWrknTrk]

My father was wont to say "Patience is my one long suit" with a wry smile that meant "I know that's not true". I can't say that he passed much patience on to me, maybe 'cause he didn't have much to spare after I came along. But I have a can of PB Blaster and a small ball pein hammer and I'll give the thing a squirt and a whack each time I pass by.

My father had a cartoon on the wall of his workshop with two buzzards sitting on a branch.

One buzzard was turned to the other saying "Patience my a**, I'm gonna kill something!"

I wish I had it today! ❤️

[Tarheel Blue]

My father had a cartoon on the wall of his workshop with two buzzards sitting on a branch.

One buzzard was turned to the other saying "Patience my a**, I'm gonna kill something!"

I wish I had it today! ❤️

I re-read your opening post and it confuses me when you ask about the 3/16” and the red arrow. You don’t want, nor need, separation there. You want to separate the casing on the right from the black center section. The black winding portion stays with the back casing. The front casing has a bearing that is held in by a retainer w/ 3 screws which you can’t get to until the case has been pulled off of the armature, so the armature needs to slide out of the inner race of that bearing in order to get the case to separate from the winnings. This is an additional point of friction that is adding to the friction of potential rust within the front case.

Sounds confusing, I’ll try to post a pic. of a disassembled 3G

[Tarheel Blue]

I re-read your opening post and it confuses me when you ask about the 3/16” and the red arrow. You don’t want, nor need, separation there. You want to separate the casing on the right from the black center section. The black winding portion stays with the back casing. The front casing has a bearing that is held in by a retainer w/ 3 screws which you can’t get to until the case has been pulled off of the armature, so the armature needs to slide out of the inner race of that bearing in order to get the case to separate from the winnings. This is an additional point of friction that is adding to the friction of potential rust within the front case.

Sounds confusing, I’ll try to post a pic. of a disassembled 3G

Also, I’d go ahead and remove the regulator now so that you don’t screw up the brushes should the back bearing be the one that frees up before the front bearing.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Also, I’d go ahead and remove the regulator now so that you don’t screw up the brushes should the back bearing be the one that frees up before the front bearing.

Just pull the pulley and whack the shaft.

It will push the rear bearing into the back case and separate the halves as far as the bolts allow