Rolling Idle

[Bootybandit]

All of you!! (a) I owned a Holley warehouse, authorised service center in the late 60s through 1978. (b) Holley changed from the steel check ball accellerator pump inlet, to a Ford styel elastomer valve somewhere around the introduction of the Spreadbore (Q-jet replacement).

The elastomer valve is pulled into the bowl carefully, preferably with some lubricant on the stem. After it is seated it is a good idea to cut the stem off above the ball inside the bowl (like you do with a Ford 2150).

Power valve, first be sure the gasket is fairly firm, a soft gasket will squeeze out and leak. Screw the valve into the metering block, torque, 25 in-lbs (hold the block in your hand and tighten the valve with a wrench) unless you have the strength of a gorilla, you won't strip it.

Floats, externally adjustable needles and seats, with the bowls inverted, set the floats parallel to the top of the bowls, secondary a bit lower. Fixed needles and seats, set by the spec sheet with a gauge that should be in the kit. Adjustment is done by bending the tang on the float.

Ok, spot on. To be clear there is no place on this carb for a ball bearing check? Moving forward. I will trim the little tab off the umbrella check valve. Then adjust the float, however there is no access for the seat! There is a cap on the top of the bowl covering it. Should I pry that off?

[Bootybandit]

Ok, spot on. To be clear there is no place on this carb for a ball bearing check? Moving forward. I will trim the little tab off the umbrella check valve. Then adjust the float, however there is no access for the seat! There is a cap on the top of the bowl covering it. Should I pry that off?

Also see LOCK SCREW? That on mine is capped giving no access, and according to others its a non adjustable float too. FYI I looked at the accelerator pump diaphragm that came with my 24$ amazon rebuild kit with a flashlight and there is a hole in it, you get what you pay for. AND is it possible I have a marine carb?

[Gary Lewis]

When you say "the secondary should be set a bit lower" ... I'm clear on this, but the float should be higher, when inverted, correct?

I'm just trying to make a distinction for the OP.

Who's on first, What's on second, I Don't Know's on third.

[85lebaront2]

When you say "the secondary should be set a bit lower" ... I'm clear on this, but the float should be higher, when inverted, correct?

I'm just trying to make a distinction for the OP.

Yes. That is correct sir. Apparently they can't read.

 

[85lebaront2]

Also see LOCK SCREW? That on mine is capped giving no access, and according to others its a non adjustable float too. FYI I looked at the accelerator pump diaphragm that came with my 24$ amazon rebuild kit with a flashlight and there is a hole in it, you get what you pay for. AND is it possible I have a marine carb?

DID YOU READ MY POST EXPLAINING HOW TO SET THE FLOATS WITHOUT THE EXTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS???

"Fixed needles and seats, set by the spec sheet with a gauge that should be in the kit. Adjustment is done by bending the tang on the float."

FWIW, here is a kit I just received for a Holley R4609, Ford PN C9AF-9510-U:

The last image is the secondary diaphragm and the small parts, including power valve, gasket, 3 inlet gaskets, 0.110 needles and seats, new throttle plate screws. This is what Holley called a "master kit". The company I ordered it from specialises in Ford Holley performance carbs, he does not support the 4180C carbs.

[85lebaront2]

DID YOU READ MY POST EXPLAINING HOW TO SET THE FLOATS WITHOUT THE EXTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS???

"Fixed needles and seats, set by the spec sheet with a gauge that should be in the kit. Adjustment is done by bending the tang on the float."

FWIW, here is a kit I just received for a Holley R4609, Ford PN C9AF-9510-U:

The last image is the secondary diaphragm and the small parts, including power valve, gasket, 3 inlet gaskets, 0.110 needles and seats, new throttle plate screws. This is what Holley called a "master kit". The company I ordered it from specialises in Ford Holley performance carbs, he does not support the 4180C carbs.

Here is the setting procedure from Holley's website:

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR ADJUSTING BRASS AND NITROPHYL FLOATS

Two methods of float adjustment are provided for with Holley performance carburetors depending on the style of float bowl and needle and seat assembly employed. They are the internal (dry) setting and the external (wet) setting. The internal float adjustment is accomplished with the fuel bowl off the carburetor. With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl surface, just underneath. An initial dry setting can also be accomplished with “externally adjustable” needle and seats. To achieve this, invert the fuel bowl and turn the adjusting nut until the float surface lies parallel to the fuel bowl casting surface underneath.

Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits, are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float furthest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the float closest to the point where the arm is attached.

 

[Bootybandit]

Here is the setting procedure from Holley's website:

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR ADJUSTING BRASS AND NITROPHYL FLOATS

Two methods of float adjustment are provided for with Holley performance carburetors depending on the style of float bowl and needle and seat assembly employed. They are the internal (dry) setting and the external (wet) setting. The internal float adjustment is accomplished with the fuel bowl off the carburetor. With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl surface, just underneath. An initial dry setting can also be accomplished with “externally adjustable” needle and seats. To achieve this, invert the fuel bowl and turn the adjusting nut until the float surface lies parallel to the fuel bowl casting surface underneath.

Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits, are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float furthest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the float closest to the point where the arm is attached.

Ok, got I really appreciate all the help. I'll adjust the float and as far is this “externally adjustable” I don't have access to that. I'll post a pic of it later.

[85lebaront2]

Ok, got I really appreciate all the help. I'll adjust the float and as far is this “externally adjustable” I don't have access to that. I'll post a pic of it later.

I understand what you have, get the float setting from the kit spec sheet and follow the instructions in your kit (if there are any). Here are the procedures for setting your float levels:

With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl surface, just underneath.

Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits, are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float furthest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the float closest to the point where the arm is attached.

[Bootybandit]

I understand what you have, get the float setting from the kit spec sheet and follow the instructions in your kit (if there are any). Here are the procedures for setting your float levels:

With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl surface, just underneath.

Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits, are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float furthest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the float closest to the point where the arm is attached.

ok just now seeing this, I adjusted with it inverted and level with the bottom of the bowl. Then replaced the old power valve. I now have a drip from the left Primary squirter, and a very rough idle that when I pull a vac line and give it air it revs up. I adjusted the mix screws for more air but still bad idle. Ill pull it again and adjust the float with the specs you sent me. Any idea why it leaks into the manifold from a squirter?

[85lebaront2]

ok just now seeing this, I adjusted with it inverted and level with the bottom of the bowl. Then replaced the old power valve. I now have a drip from the left Primary squirter, and a very rough idle that when I pull a vac line and give it air it revs up. I adjusted the mix screws for more air but still bad idle. Ill pull it again and adjust the float with the specs you sent me. Any idea why it leaks into the manifold from a squirter?

That tells me you are quite rich. Dripping from one side of the accelerator pump nozzle. Did you install the weighted needle under the pump nozzle? Can you listen to the air flow through the primary barrels at idle (a piece of 1/8 - 3/16" vacuum hose works well)? If there is a difference, even a small one, the throttle shaft may be twisted slightly. Also look for raw gas in the secondary throttle area with the engine running. That will make it rich as will a bad power valve or gasket.