Bootybandit Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Well, you've got to fix the acc pump weight before you can diagnose anything else! I didn't know that they were stock rebuilt heads. We all have a variety of configurations from home porting, pro porting, aluminum performance heads to professionally ported Trick Flow heads like Gary's Dad's truck. I just want to be clear on what I'm dealing with. Sometimes, you can have all the best parts, but slapped together by Florida Man, like poor Vern. So much money and good parts destroyed by imbicles. :nabble_money-flying-23_orig: Well I prefer the term Amateur. I bought the intake and carb because it originally came with a motorcraft venturi style carb that was was broken. If I knew then what I know now I would have went 2bb and intake to match. I bought the HEI dizz because the motorcraft was cracked. Now Im stuck. I just want a good running 351w with no hassle. Got any suggestions on what to do now? Im waiting on a diaphragm and will try and straighten the pump cover tomorrow, it rained like crazy here today. FYI if I give it gas the roll will quit at high rmp when i let off she comes real close to dying then resumes here erratic idle. The carb worked fine until I rebuilt it. Im a little frustrated and really just want to rethink all of this to more user friendly set up. Im offline for tonight thanks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Well I prefer the term Amateur. I bought the intake and carb because it originally came with a motorcraft venturi style carb that was was broken. If I knew then what I know now I would have went 2bb and intake to match. I bought the HEI dizz because the motorcraft was cracked. Now Im stuck. I just want a good running 351w with no hassle. Got any suggestions on what to do now? Im waiting on a diaphragm and will try and straighten the pump cover tomorrow, it rained like crazy here today. FYI if I give it gas the roll will quit at high rmp when i let off she comes real close to dying then resumes here erratic idle. The carb worked fine until I rebuilt it. Im a little frustrated and really just want to rethink all of this to more user friendly set up. Im offline for tonight thanks for all the help. these were the standard for more years then efi has been. the kinks were well worked out. so, it is a very reasonable expectation to have it reliable. as with all things, there are good and bad. to each his own as to which you have. I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by plugging the port and rpm going up. I know the process, but did you mean that you had an uncapped plug before? if so, why? uncapping a manifold vacuum port gives the plenum a bit more air and leans out the mixture showing a lean carb setting. possibly only on one venturi. I do not know the intake, spacer/ no spacer, ported or open plenum. etc. uncapping a port at the carb base gives a balanced fuel trim test but if it is on one runner it could give a very lean cylinder and cause a variation in rpm. yet not as sensitive for a vacuum gauge as it's not a vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Well I prefer the term Amateur. I bought the intake and carb because it originally came with a motorcraft venturi style carb that was was broken. If I knew then what I know now I would have went 2bb and intake to match. I bought the HEI dizz because the motorcraft was cracked. Now Im stuck. I just want a good running 351w with no hassle. Got any suggestions on what to do now? Im waiting on a diaphragm and will try and straighten the pump cover tomorrow, it rained like crazy here today. FYI if I give it gas the roll will quit at high rmp when i let off she comes real close to dying then resumes here erratic idle. The carb worked fine until I rebuilt it. Im a little frustrated and really just want to rethink all of this to more user friendly set up. Im offline for tonight thanks for all the help. I don't mean you. I just meant to say that we've seen it all! "Florida Man. is a meme here on the forum. (Look at the 400 or so page saga of Gary's Big Blue!) The 4160 is a good carb in 500 or 600 cfm for a 351. I think an HEI is an easy 'all in one' solution to have a functional ignition inexpensively, but you must wire it properly, with a relay and 30A fuse. There is a tutorial under "Bullnose Upgrades" in the menu at the top of the page..... If it clears up at higher rpm and then starts blubbering and popping on trailing throttle, those are both signs of a bad power valve. It may be that you didn't get the gasket seated quite properly. I've seen that more than once. It's easy to miss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 these were the standard for more years then efi has been. the kinks were well worked out. so, it is a very reasonable expectation to have it reliable. as with all things, there are good and bad. to each his own as to which you have. I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by plugging the port and rpm going up. I know the process, but did you mean that you had an uncapped plug before? if so, why? uncapping a manifold vacuum port gives the plenum a bit more air and leans out the mixture showing a lean carb setting. possibly only on one venturi. I do not know the intake, spacer/ no spacer, ported or open plenum. etc. uncapping a port at the carb base gives a balanced fuel trim test but if it is on one runner it could give a very lean cylinder and cause a variation in rpm. yet not as sensitive for a vacuum gauge as it's not a vacuum leak. Leaning out the carb would help compensate for a bad powervalve.... 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootybandit Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 Leaning out the carb would help compensate for a bad powervalve.... 💡 Lol my brother lives in FL When he does something dumb I call him FLA Man. I'll check the power valve today, I also failed to mention I bought a cheap rebuild kit on amazon with a new power valve, I kept the old. Should I go back to it?? I was also told that accelerator pump would have an effect on the idle but I don't see how it couldn't when its leaking during idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Lol my brother lives in FL When he does something dumb I call him FLA Man. I'll check the power valve today, I also failed to mention I bought a cheap rebuild kit on amazon with a new power valve, I kept the old. Should I go back to it?? I was also told that accelerator pump would have an effect on the idle but I don't see how it couldn't when its leaking during idle. Shaun lives somewhere near Ocala. I think he started it when I made a comment about 'bath salts' Gary bought (and BROUGHT) Big Blue from a guy -Vern- in FL who finally gave up on having his ultimate truck after being fleeced and having the truck butchered by almost everyone there. It's a long saga, and then rescued and risen from the ashes by Gary, who I convinced to do a SAS & RSK, also a Scotty Johnson motor. Yeah, the accelerator pump check weight HAS to be free, or it will dribble like grandpa, all the time. I can't say what your old powervalve looks like but if it's from 2002 it's lived a good life. I will only buy the blue Teflon kits from Holley or QFT. 😉 You can usually find them on eBay and Amazon. The original H.O. 4180 took a unique kit that people always got wrong and then wondered why their truck (or Mustang) didn't run right. IIRC it is 1346. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Lol my brother lives in FL When he does something dumb I call him FLA Man. I'll check the power valve today, I also failed to mention I bought a cheap rebuild kit on amazon with a new power valve, I kept the old. Should I go back to it?? I was also told that accelerator pump would have an effect on the idle but I don't see how it couldn't when its leaking during idle. One of the issues with the Holley 4160 series is the secondary metering system. The metering body (a plate with main and idle circuits in it) is attached to the main body with 6 scews, originally clutch heads. The lower outboard corners were a good distance from the screws. This, with high underhood temperatures, resulted in the zinc alloy metering body warping. Since Holley, at that time had a fairly standard casting for a given carburetor size, the main body had some lower holes into the secondary idle and transfer passages. As the body warped, it would open these passages into the secondary float bowl causing a very rich idle mixture. You could actually look down the carburetor and see the raw gas coming out over the secondary throttle plates. Holley and Chrysler released a modification kit that changed the gasket sequence and replaced the small steel seperator plate with a large one that matched the rear bowl gasket in size and shape. The issue was such a problem, the Chrysler and Carter released complete replacement kits that installed either and AFB or AVS inplace of the Holley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Shaun lives somewhere near Ocala. I think he started it when I made a comment about 'bath salts' Gary bought (and BROUGHT) Big Blue from a guy -Vern- in FL who finally gave up on having his ultimate truck after being fleeced and having the truck butchered by almost everyone there. It's a long saga, and then rescued and risen from the ashes by Gary, who I convinced to do a SAS & RSK, also a Scotty Johnson motor. Yeah, the accelerator pump check weight HAS to be free, or it will dribble like grandpa, all the time. I can't say what your old powervalve looks like but if it's from 2002 it's lived a good life. I will only buy the blue Teflon kits from Holley or QFT. 😉 You can usually find them on eBay and Amazon. The original H.O. 4180 took a unique kit that people always got wrong and then wondered why their truck (or Mustang) didn't run right. IIRC it is 1346. Jim, right now I have a Holley R4209 (735 CFM from a 428 CJ) to rebuild that was originally going to a friend's Ranchero with either a 429 or 460 (size not determined). I just received the kit from a company called Air Fuel Spark and it is very comprehensive, even new throttle plate screws. I have accumulated the special fuel line (missing) and 1/4" inverted flare inlets for it. I have a 7 volt Ford/Holley choke cover as his truck has headers. Friend has not been heard from since Covid, he called once and sounded terrible and no activity from him on either of his two FB profiles. Truck is in storage in a container in Newport News, owned by Donnie Medlin at Pete's. Neither Donnie, John Gleason, nor myself have been able to reach Del. He was in West Jordan Utah when last heard from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Jim, right now I have a Holley R4209 (735 CFM from a 428 CJ) to rebuild that was originally going to a friend's Ranchero with either a 429 or 460 (size not determined). I just received the kit from a company called Air Fuel Spark and it is very comprehensive, even new throttle plate screws. I have accumulated the special fuel line (missing) and 1/4" inverted flare inlets for it. I have a 7 volt Ford/Holley choke cover as his truck has headers. Friend has not been heard from since Covid, he called once and sounded terrible and no activity from him on either of his two FB profiles. Truck is in storage in a container in Newport News, owned by Donnie Medlin at Pete's. Neither Donnie, John Gleason, nor myself have been able to reach Del. He was in West Jordan Utah when last heard from. I'm terribly sorry to hear that. Certainly hope he's okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootybandit Posted May 29 Author Share Posted May 29 I'm terribly sorry to hear that. Certainly hope he's okay. "accelerator pump check weight" I don't have one nor is one shown on the schematic?? Ok in this view it says #75 is the weight but deosnt show it. I also have a rubber check valve on mine I wonder if its the wrong way? https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_4150_4160_exploded_view.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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