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1986 F-250 build/rebuild progress thread.


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You know its funny you mention the valve depth. They have the intake and exhaust valves set up at different installed heights. Not that far off from each other, looks like its intentional as they're all the same for intake and exhaust. The push rods are close enough, exhaust valve stem pattern is dead on in the middle, thin line. Intakes are also in the middle but the contact pattern is a little wider. I can't make it any better without having a custom set of push rods made, or using two lengths but they're plenty acceptable for this low lift cam I'd say. Haven't tried the orange loctite yet, I really don't want those bolts coming loose. I've been gravitating to the Permatex super 300 for a gasket dressing/sealant where I don't want to use silicone. It's especially made for use with high detergent fluids such as coolant and ATF, and it has worked fantastic on everything I've used it on. It also works well on the outside of shaft seals. I plan on using ultra grey for the china walls and coolant ports. Just realize I didn't upload a pic of what I was talking about. This absolutely stupid design.

The orange has been working for me & Gary.

It's plenty strong but doesn't require heat to remove.

Breakaway data is available on the website, and being a gel, it doesn't run.

Don't we all love the sweet and acrid taste of Loctite! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

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The orange has been working for me & Gary.

It's plenty strong but doesn't require heat to remove.

Breakaway data is available on the website, and being a gel, it doesn't run.

Don't we all love the sweet and acrid taste of Loctite! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

The loctite 545 has an interesting smell to it.

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The loctite 545 has an interesting smell to it.

Got the engine all buttoned up today and ready to go, tore the transmission apart. The forward clutches have some wear and the seals are pretty hard but everything overall looks great for a 254,000 mile transmission thats never been rebuilt. 448393689_1835138113694975_7448051483571405367_n.jpg.9e9b64523118c5e5cac1ce39aeb289d4.jpg448414806_448751024533796_2997330630851483614_n.jpg.7f9f0b5c90632e5aeb96627770ccbc8d.jpg448746162_934644618347831_680218382967506243_n.jpg.8aae594aa13fd728f8718984bd0ec0e3.jpg448684249_2168374293512941_4463266427464863601_n.jpg.aefb613a052130c8058182524677f77d.jpg447905325_1841995439612220_7745602265338735907_n.jpg.87ad93c790b80c9176ee7a622f3897a8.jpg448502318_1254178485558644_8799936196313670185_n.jpg.58c64bef3fa83d9602bbf229ef135f06.jpg448412674_429027896672932_5870403732664097552_n.jpg.4e0b6e30a797ffab736a6a4fab21df1e.jpg448843123_1472734653374119_5678913972742012761_n.jpg.cade6754beaf358ae940ae9c16c94261.jpg448495522_503026615630900_2759414175879246211_n.jpg.6efdd6c8a1af66f8f9c66ed8caf3a497.jpg

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Got the engine all buttoned up today and ready to go, tore the transmission apart. The forward clutches have some wear and the seals are pretty hard but everything overall looks great for a 254,000 mile transmission thats never been rebuilt.

Better you than I. To me an auto tranny is like a clock - way too many parts to get back together in the proper order.

Perhaps my comfort with building engines is because I started on model airplane and lawnmower engines with a single cylinder. Then graduated to auto engines that just add a distributor and a water pump. So it was gradual.

Anyway, good luck to you! I'm sure you'll do fine. :nabble_anim_claps:

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Got the engine all buttoned up today and ready to go, tore the transmission apart. The forward clutches have some wear and the seals are pretty hard but everything overall looks great for a 254,000 mile transmission thats never been rebuilt.

Check the hub for the 1st gear sprag clutch (piece at the back of the case) primarily the bolts and holes in the case. When I changed to the E4OD in Darth, I gave the C6 to a friend's transmission shop. They tore it down and found the case was toast due to that. Apparently the thermal cycles over the years had allowed the bolts and aluminum of the case to develop just enough play for the hub and bolts to move. Ford apparently used a thread locker on the bolts as they were not loose in the hub.

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Better you than I. To me an auto tranny is like a clock - way too many parts to get back together in the proper order.

Perhaps my comfort with building engines is because I started on model airplane and lawnmower engines with a single cylinder. Then graduated to auto engines that just add a distributor and a water pump. So it was gradual.

Anyway, good luck to you! I'm sure you'll do fine. :nabble_anim_claps:

Much easier to work on than a big manual transmission. Try getting the countershaft in a ford Toploader, 3 or 4 speed. Thrust washers, needle bearings and a shaft that is a press fit in the front of the case.

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Much easier to work on than a big manual transmission. Try getting the countershaft in a ford Toploader, 3 or 4 speed. Thrust washers, needle bearings and a shaft that is a press fit in the front of the case.

???? :nabble_anim_confused:

The Allison's in the 550-650's are always SO much fun! :nabble_smiley_whistling:

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???? :nabble_anim_confused:

The Allison's in the 550-650's are always SO much fun! :nabble_smiley_whistling:

I would imagine, never had the experience of rebuilding an Allison, but have worked on lots of smaller ones, including the old 4 speed single and dual coupling Hydra-Matics and both versions of the Roto-Hydramatic. TH400, TH350, TH200, Ford 2 speed Ford-O-Matic, 3 speed and early Cruise-O-Matic, C4, C6, Chrysler Torqueflites and even a Detroit Gear automatic as used by Studebaker and Jaguar.

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Check the hub for the 1st gear sprag clutch (piece at the back of the case) primarily the bolts and holes in the case. When I changed to the E4OD in Darth, I gave the C6 to a friend's transmission shop. They tore it down and found the case was toast due to that. Apparently the thermal cycles over the years had allowed the bolts and aluminum of the case to develop just enough play for the hub and bolts to move. Ford apparently used a thread locker on the bolts as they were not loose in the hub.

I looked it over taking the bolts out last night all seems well but the springs in the sprag are definitely wasted, I have a new upgraded sprag with the nylon cage. The C6 we did for my dads galaxie years back was the same way also with the sprag springs, think that trans had about 220,000 on it also. What really surprises me with this one is how clean it was inside and how excellent the bushings all look. I bought the full bushing kit but I think I'm just gonna change the front pump and tail shaft bushings and leave the rest alone because I think it would be a total waste of time messing with them.

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Better you than I. To me an auto tranny is like a clock - way too many parts to get back together in the proper order.

Perhaps my comfort with building engines is because I started on model airplane and lawnmower engines with a single cylinder. Then graduated to auto engines that just add a distributor and a water pump. So it was gradual.

Anyway, good luck to you! I'm sure you'll do fine. :nabble_anim_claps:

Gary honestly this is the third auto trans rebuild I'm going through and the second C6, at this point I'd much rather do the transmission than the engine I find it a lot more enjoyable actually.

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