Mekerek Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Hello, I am trying to clean up a 1984 Ford F350 that I recently purchased. Unfortunately I am a few years behind where parts are easily available. One such case is that I need a vacuum hose, I believe the part number is E1AZ-19C827-C but I can't find this anywhere for purchase. I can find other 19C827 as it appears Ford used this for vacuum hoses forever. First of all I think the ID is 1/16" and the OD is 1/8" if my eyesight is good enough. This appears to be the connection that goes from the engine into the cab into one of the 3 port white plastic adapters. I am not sure of the length, but I seem to see several references for 22" or so. I have attached below pictures, one of the attaching end of the cable that goes into a 3way T, and the other is where it's broken off and goes down and into the cab through the firewall. I need to know either how to get a replacement of this hose for engine to cabin use, or at least a way to patch it sealed. (Yes I plan to replace the rusted actuator shown in the picture.) (Assuming the above are correct, if it's wrong let me know) Thanks a million if anyone has ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Yes, that's Ford's basic number for any and all vacuum lines. If there's anything left, I make a repair using a bit of small engine (weed whacker, chainsaw) Tygon fuel line. That fresh air door below the passenger hinge tends to get broken, and of course the line from the vacuum splitter/manifold on the cowl going into the cab for the climate control. Some people report up sizing and using nylon air brake line from a heavy duty truck, but I haven't tried that yet, so can't say how well it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Yes, that's Ford's basic number for any and all vacuum lines. If there's anything left, I make a repair using a bit of small engine (weed whacker, chainsaw) Tygon fuel line. That fresh air door below the passenger hinge tends to get broken, and of course the line from the vacuum splitter/manifold on the cowl going into the cab for the climate control. Some people report up sizing and using nylon air brake line from a heavy duty truck, but I haven't tried that yet, so can't say how well it works. I've used really small brass tubing to act as a joint between pieces of vacuum tubing. And even used it to go through the grommet in the firewall. Not sure if I drilled a new hole in the grommet and pushed it through or pushed the old hose out of the grommet with it, but it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekerek Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 I've used really small brass tubing to act as a joint between pieces of vacuum tubing. And even used it to go through the grommet in the firewall. Not sure if I drilled a new hole in the grommet and pushed it through or pushed the old hose out of the grommet with it, but it worked. Do either you happen to know, does it need to be 1/16" ID? If I have to replace some of this in the future, is it ok to use 1/8" or 3MM ID hose line (assuming I can get it to connect where it needs)? Most all of the line that I am finding in engine and under dash is really stiff and I expect during my replacement of the radio and fixing the AC, something is going to get broken. I have also found one of the 3 outlet white plastic connectors under the dash has 2 connected and 1 open, so I probably need to figure out where this went or at least plug it. I started this because I am chasing that the AC is only hot and only defrost, so first I am trying to retrace all the lines and found this situation. I have already discovered the pull line that sets temp cold to hot is not mounted so the hold cable in the plastic tube is just bending behind in the dash and not actually pulling the cable. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Do either you happen to know, does it need to be 1/16" ID? If I have to replace some of this in the future, is it ok to use 1/8" or 3MM ID hose line (assuming I can get it to connect where it needs)? Most all of the line that I am finding in engine and under dash is really stiff and I expect during my replacement of the radio and fixing the AC, something is going to get broken. I have also found one of the 3 outlet white plastic connectors under the dash has 2 connected and 1 open, so I probably need to figure out where this went or at least plug it. I started this because I am chasing that the AC is only hot and only defrost, so first I am trying to retrace all the lines and found this situation. I have already discovered the pull line that sets temp cold to hot is not mounted so the hold cable in the plastic tube is just bending behind in the dash and not actually pulling the cable. Thanks. 1/16 is too small. 3/32 is about right for a tight seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Do either you happen to know, does it need to be 1/16" ID? If I have to replace some of this in the future, is it ok to use 1/8" or 3MM ID hose line (assuming I can get it to connect where it needs)? Most all of the line that I am finding in engine and under dash is really stiff and I expect during my replacement of the radio and fixing the AC, something is going to get broken. I have also found one of the 3 outlet white plastic connectors under the dash has 2 connected and 1 open, so I probably need to figure out where this went or at least plug it. I started this because I am chasing that the AC is only hot and only defrost, so first I am trying to retrace all the lines and found this situation. I have already discovered the pull line that sets temp cold to hot is not mounted so the hold cable in the plastic tube is just bending behind in the dash and not actually pulling the cable. Thanks. The diagram below is from the 1985 EVTM but should be the same as yours if you have factory A/C. But if your line under the hood was broken you'll only have Defrost. However, you shouldn't have open ports under the dash either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Do either you happen to know, does it need to be 1/16" ID? If I have to replace some of this in the future, is it ok to use 1/8" or 3MM ID hose line (assuming I can get it to connect where it needs)? Most all of the line that I am finding in engine and under dash is really stiff and I expect during my replacement of the radio and fixing the AC, something is going to get broken. I have also found one of the 3 outlet white plastic connectors under the dash has 2 connected and 1 open, so I probably need to figure out where this went or at least plug it. I started this because I am chasing that the AC is only hot and only defrost, so first I am trying to retrace all the lines and found this situation. I have already discovered the pull line that sets temp cold to hot is not mounted so the hold cable in the plastic tube is just bending behind in the dash and not actually pulling the cable. Thanks. My 78 Bronco uses the same vacuum switch on the dash and they used a bulky 3/16 or 1/4 inch vacuum hose which still looks almost new. I have never understood why the Bullnose trucks used a delicate vacuum hose in that area. I have never seen that hose in good shape on any of the bullnoses I've had. Anyways.. I don't think the hose diameter matters .... I learned not too long ago here that vacuum is vacuum.. orifices don't reduce the vacuum level but they can definitely filter out fluctuations in vacuum from the manifold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 My 78 Bronco uses the same vacuum switch on the dash and they used a bulky 3/16 or 1/4 inch vacuum hose which still looks almost new. I have never understood why the Bullnose trucks used a delicate vacuum hose in that area. I have never seen that hose in good shape on any of the bullnoses I've had. Anyways.. I don't think the hose diameter matters .... I learned not too long ago here that vacuum is vacuum.. orifices don't reduce the vacuum level but they can definitely filter out fluctuations in vacuum from the manifold... Vacuum is all about potential (restrictions just add hysteresis to the system) But diameter is VERY important if you're trying to get a good seal where you slip your splice over the plastic hard line....💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekerek Posted May 12 Author Share Posted May 12 Vacuum is all about potential (restrictions just add hysteresis to the system) But diameter is VERY important if you're trying to get a good seal where you slip your splice over the plastic hard line....💡 For anyone else, just as an update. I got some 1/8" vacuum hose ID, silicon automotive hose and it fits perfectly over the previous hose, and fits over the ends, so I just replaced from break to fitting and it sealed great. That along with a plug over the missing opening on one of the white connections (tbd where that went) and I have working AC instead of default defrost heated air blowing. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 For anyone else, just as an update. I got some 1/8" vacuum hose ID, silicon automotive hose and it fits perfectly over the previous hose, and fits over the ends, so I just replaced from break to fitting and it sealed great. That along with a plug over the missing opening on one of the white connections (tbd where that went) and I have working AC instead of default defrost heated air blowing. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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