mat in tn Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Condensation in the cylinder is from moist air reaching cool aluminum and iron inside the cylinder. This is entirely separate from condensation in the oil, which needs extended periods at operating temp to evaporate, and get sucked out the PCV.... certainly broken rings are caused by other things but when full of rust upon removal I can accept that I'm starting over entirely. as is the expectation when taking it apart initially. in this case of the 460 I believe the owner bought a truck which had a much older engine thrown in for the sale/disposal. I'm STILL waiting on parts for it. freshly machined block, heads, crank all painted along with pan, covers etc. wrapped and waiting. wd40 is well used here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 certainly broken rings are caused by other things but when full of rust upon removal I can accept that I'm starting over entirely. as is the expectation when taking it apart initially. in this case of the 460 I believe the owner bought a truck which had a much older engine thrown in for the sale/disposal. I'm STILL waiting on parts for it. freshly machined block, heads, crank all painted along with pan, covers etc. wrapped and waiting. wd40 is well used here! Nooo! You mean that WD-40 can be used for something -other than- removing old stickers and silencing squeaky hinges?!?!? This is a bizarre world where cats and dogs sleep together, and frogs rain from the sky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Nooo! You mean that WD-40 can be used for something -other than- removing old stickers and silencing squeaky hinges?!?!? This is a bizarre world where cats and dogs sleep together, and frogs rain from the sky! it was either that or super 77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 it was either that or super 77 WD makes it move Gorilla snot keeps it in place! 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 WD makes it move Gorilla snot keeps it in place! 🤣 when I put something somewhere. that's where I want it to stay. like the damn tv remote. anybody seen my damn tv remote? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 when I put something somewhere. that's where I want it to stay. like the damn tv remote. anybody seen my damn tv remote? "Anyone seen my glasses?" Yes, they're on your damn head! 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 "Anyone seen my glasses?" Yes, they're on your damn head! 🤣 worse if you are looking:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: through them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 But you do need to keep the rings and valves free. If it makes you feel better, use MMO or Rislone. If you're like me, add 1/2 qt/l of ATF with each oil change. It will help prevent sludge and keep all the internals free and clear. Although, best is to just keep the juices flowing. Drive it -at least around the block- every week. Don’t want to highjack this thread, but seems the good place to ask. Regular Big Brother’s year mileage doesn’t exceed 2000 miles. And in winter-salted-roads-time I move Big Bro about once a month (for the manure duty on the farm, so the engine will run no more than 30 minutes). Quetions: 1- Oil change frequency: Is yearly a good practice or too often? 2- Best time to do it: Do you suggest to flush oil and pour new at each spring (after a year + static winter), or fall (just before the static winter period)? 3- Should I always put this additive in engine oil, as a good practice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 Quetions: 1- Oil change frequency: Is yearly a good practice or too often? 2- Best time to do it: Do you suggest to flush oil and pour new at each spring (after a year + static winter), or fall (just before the static winter period)? 3- Should I always put this additive in engine oil, as a good practice? Best practice would be to run the engine up to operating temperature and let the PCV system do it's job of sucking moisture vapor out of the engine so it doesn't become acid. Even if you just let it idle for 45 minutes or more, not driving it around, will help get condensation out of the crankcase. To answer your questions (from MY perspective only) 1) If I knew I was using good high detergent oil and the truck got started weekly, I wouldn't change the oil until it's due on mileage. -I use a 5k OCI with diesel oil- 2) Seasons mean nothing to me, but I don't live in Canada. I run a heavier oil in summer, but I change more than twice a year due to me actually using my truck. Last year I tried 10w60 in summer and it got rid of my low pressure at hot idle. If I were in Canada and periodically started a dead cold engine I would probably use 5 (or even 0!) W 30 in winter. 3) I don't feel there's any need for snake oil today. I have no cats so I can use diesel oil intended for very high oil change intervals that has a lot of detergent to keep sludge from settling out, inside my engine. This is what ATF or Rislone do. But I'd rather spend my $ on oil I trust than try to doctor up some cheap oil I don't trust. (Don't get me wrong, even Supertech oil from Walmart is GOOD oil) I hope that answers your questions. Other members are going to have other opinions, swearing by Lucas or some other marketing firm. Caveat Emptor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Quetions: 1- Oil change frequency: Is yearly a good practice or too often? 2- Best time to do it: Do you suggest to flush oil and pour new at each spring (after a year + static winter), or fall (just before the static winter period)? 3- Should I always put this additive in engine oil, as a good practice? Best practice would be to run the engine up to operating temperature and let the PCV system do it's job of sucking moisture vapor out of the engine so it doesn't become acid. Even if you just let it idle for 45 minutes or more, not driving it around, will help get condensation out of the crankcase. To answer your questions (from MY perspective only) 1) If I knew I was using good high detergent oil and the truck got started weekly, I wouldn't change the oil until it's due on mileage. -I use a 5k OCI with diesel oil- 2) Seasons mean nothing to me, but I don't live in Canada. I run a heavier oil in summer, but I change more than twice a year due to me actually using my truck. Last year I tried 10w60 in summer and it got rid of my low pressure at hot idle. If I were in Canada and periodically started a dead cold engine I would probably use 5 (or even 0!) W 30 in winter. 3) I don't feel there's any need for snake oil today. I have no cats so I can use diesel oil intended for very high oil change intervals that has a lot of detergent to keep sludge from settling out, inside my engine. This is what ATF or Rislone do. But I'd rather spend my $ on oil I trust than try to doctor up some cheap oil I don't trust. (Don't get me wrong, even Supertech oil from Walmart is GOOD oil) I hope that answers your questions. Other members are going to have other opinions, swearing by Lucas or some other marketing firm. Caveat Emptor! Why diesel ? 15W-40 or 20W-50 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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