ArdWrknTrk Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 Well, if it is forged I'm gonna have a problem. It'll probably eat saw blades and I can't get far enough with the little cutoff wheel to get through it. Maybe with a bigger cutoff wheel I can? Try the Diablo carbide sawzall blade for thick metal. When I had to cut through the forged suspension components of my brother's car it was astounding how easy it went after hours of instantly dulling and overheating conventional bi-metal blades.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Try the Diablo carbide sawzall blade for thick metal. When I had to cut through the forged suspension components of my brother's car it was astounding how easy it went after hours of instantly dulling and overheating conventional bi-metal blades.. Vivek - I only have a MAPP gas torch, and that's not going to get it warm, much less HOT. Jim - I may have to resort to that blade. But I have a few more things to try first. Yesterday I had a few minutes so I tried my battery-powered grinder with a 5" cutoff wheel on it. But since the cut from the smaller wheel was narrow the larger, thicker wheel kept binding. So I took a wide chisel and drove it into the gap and was able to get the gap wide enough that I could get the larger wheel in. That worked for a while but I finally overheated the battery and since I was essentially out of time I quit at that point. The next thing will be to put that wheel on the 110V grinder and see what I can do. I'm probably about 2/3 of the way through the crank and with the oil pump off I have good access so hope to be able to get most, if not all the way, through. But there is NO flex yet. The rear main doesn't wiggle. Hitting the flywheel doesn't cause any movement, although I have to be very careful as the whole thing is resting on two jack stands & a 2/x4 so I can't hit too hard. Maybe when I get as much cut as I can I'll be able to rotate the flywheel with a pry bar and get the crank to let go. But, there are no parting lines on the crank so I think Bill is right - it is forged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Vivek - I only have a MAPP gas torch, and that's not going to get it warm, much less HOT. Jim - I may have to resort to that blade. But I have a few more things to try first. Yesterday I had a few minutes so I tried my battery-powered grinder with a 5" cutoff wheel on it. But since the cut from the smaller wheel was narrow the larger, thicker wheel kept binding. So I took a wide chisel and drove it into the gap and was able to get the gap wide enough that I could get the larger wheel in. That worked for a while but I finally overheated the battery and since I was essentially out of time I quit at that point. The next thing will be to put that wheel on the 110V grinder and see what I can do. I'm probably about 2/3 of the way through the crank and with the oil pump off I have good access so hope to be able to get most, if not all the way, through. But there is NO flex yet. The rear main doesn't wiggle. Hitting the flywheel doesn't cause any movement, although I have to be very careful as the whole thing is resting on two jack stands & a 2/x4 so I can't hit too hard. Maybe when I get as much cut as I can I'll be able to rotate the flywheel with a pry bar and get the crank to let go. But, there are no parting lines on the crank so I think Bill is right - it is forged. Forging should still leave a line.... So, your 5" cutoff disc is thicker than.045"??? I've got a 7 & a 9" grinder and a gas powered 14" Stihl, you might remember when I cut The Giving Truck to pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Forging should still leave a line.... So, your 5" cutoff disc is thicker than.045"??? I've got a 7 & a 9" grinder and a gas powered 14" Stihl, you might remember when I cut The Giving Truck to pieces. Found this online.. Interesting. I just assumed all cranks were forged.. or maybe I never gave it any thought.... Once tooling is setup, I don't imagine it being really difficult to forge all the time There would be an extra manufacturing step.. sure... but still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Found this online.. Interesting. I just assumed all cranks were forged.. or maybe I never gave it any thought.... Once tooling is setup, I don't imagine it being really difficult to forge all the time http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg There would be an extra manufacturing step.. sure... but still. I don't know if this one is forged or cast, but it is in two parts. Here are some pics to prove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 I don't know if this one is forged or cast, but it is in two parts. Here are some pics to prove it. Progress is Gooooood! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 I don't know if this one is forged or cast, but it is in two parts. Here are some pics to prove it. Yay that's great!! Looks like Jim's idea of slicing turned out to be the solution after all! I wouldn't have thought of that. (Looks like forged because the edges are rounded.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 I don't know if this one is forged or cast, but it is in two parts. Here are some pics to prove it. Nice pile of scrap metal! Glad you finally got it off. How does the flywheel look? As Jim would say "progress is good". If you find that the later pan and the front axle have too close a relationship and you end up using that pan, you will probably have to remove all of the splash lube system for clearance 216 = 3.5 X 3.75, 235 = 3.5625 X 3.9375 but the rod caps on the 235 might clear, but the feed pipe for the jets will need to be cut as I do not believe the feed hole is there (not that you would want to use it anyway). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Nice pile of scrap metal! Glad you finally got it off. How does the flywheel look? As Jim would say "progress is good". If you find that the later pan and the front axle have too close a relationship and you end up using that pan, you will probably have to remove all of the splash lube system for clearance 216 = 3.5 X 3.75, 235 = 3.5625 X 3.9375 but the rod caps on the 235 might clear, but the feed pipe for the jets will need to be cut as I do not believe the feed hole is there (not that you would want to use it anyway). Yes, it is a lot of scrap metal. I still need to check the pans, and there I'm thinking I'll cut a piece of cardboard to profile the 216 pan and see if it fits the 235 pan. Then I'll know if it'll clear. And I still need to pull the front mount off the timing cover on the 216, although I think it has seen better days an may need to be repaired or replaced. Plus I need to replace the rear mounts as they are toast - literally on one as I caught it on fire with the welding. Then a HUGE cleanup of the shop. Tools are everywhere and so is dirt and rust. EVERYWHERE, like . And I have to get rid of the 216. As for the flywheel, it looks fine. But I can't use it as Chevy changed the tooth count on the ring gear between a 216 and a 235. So 6 volt starters work on a 216 and 12 volt starters on a 235. So I have to get a new flywheel and I want to get a new clutch and pressure plate as well so it doesn't have to come back apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Yes, it is a lot of scrap metal. I still need to check the pans, and there I'm thinking I'll cut a piece of cardboard to profile the 216 pan and see if it fits the 235 pan. Then I'll know if it'll clear. And I still need to pull the front mount off the timing cover on the 216, although I think it has seen better days an may need to be repaired or replaced. Plus I need to replace the rear mounts as they are toast - literally on one as I caught it on fire with the welding. Then a HUGE cleanup of the shop. Tools are everywhere and so is dirt and rust. EVERYWHERE, like . And I have to get rid of the 216. As for the flywheel, it looks fine. But I can't use it as Chevy changed the tooth count on the ring gear between a 216 and a 235. So 6 volt starters work on a 216 and 12 volt starters on a 235. So I have to get a new flywheel and I want to get a new clutch and pressure plate as well so it doesn't have to come back apart. Look up the pan gaskets and see if they are different. On the flywheel, I thought you were going to change the ring gear anyway. FWIW, 1953-54 and maybe even 1955 were 6 volt and the Powerglide cars got the 235 engine to make up for the serious loss of pep with a Powerglide. As near as I can tell, all 235s are full pressure oiling, so if the rods and troughs get too friendly the troughs can be eliminated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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