Gary Lewis Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 I do see I remembered the clutch housing design correctly. Is #5 rod broken? I think I have seen a worse looking piece of scrap metal, but it's been a long time. It was a Chevy 292 ci 6 cyl race engine, aluminum rod in #2 cyl broke and almost sawed the block apart at #2. I don't think #5 is broken. I punched the rod bolt out trying to get the cap off, so maybe that is what you are seeing. And yes, it is scrap and I've seen better. Man, this is toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 I don't think #5 is broken. I punched the rod bolt out trying to get the cap off, so maybe that is what you are seeing. And yes, it is scrap and I've seen better. Man, this is toast. If you have had a chance to go through that article I shared with you, one item he mentions is the oil filter. He suggests going to a remote spin on type with the remote mount where the original bypass filter sat. You could get a remote mount kit for a Ford spin on filter (also same filter fits Roadrunners). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 I'd probably slice that last rod journal with a cutoff disc so I had something to grab in the vise that won't turn while trying to get the flywheel bolts out.... Jim has a way with words. To me "slice" implies "like a hot knife through butter". This is more like a dull knife through cast iron. I first tried a bi-metal sawzall blade and all that happened was the blade turned blue and the teeth departed. Then I remembered that cranks are frequently nitrided to make them hard on the surface, and while I don't know that this one was, it sure is hard. So I then took to the cutoff disc and got about as far as I could reach with it, as shown below. I can get a bit farther with the cutoff wheel, but after I get as far as I can I'll try the sawzall again to get the other half of the crank. But if that doesn't work I'll try a chisel to see if I can break the crank. And yes, you see hammer marks on the rod. I've tried to move it down but everything is frozen. NOTHING is moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 If you have had a chance to go through that article I shared with you, one item he mentions is the oil filter. He suggests going to a remote spin on type with the remote mount where the original bypass filter sat. You could get a remote mount kit for a Ford spin on filter (also same filter fits Roadrunners). Bill - I'll follow up on that oil filter idea. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 I'd probably slice that last rod journal with a cutoff disc so I had something to grab in the vise that won't turn while trying to get the flywheel bolts out.... Jim has a way with words. To me "slice" implies "like a hot knife through butter". This is more like a dull knife through cast iron. I first tried a bi-metal sawzall blade and all that happened was the blade turned blue and the teeth departed. Then I remembered that cranks are frequently nitrided to make them hard on the surface, and while I don't know that this one was, it sure is hard. So I then took to the cutoff disc and got about as far as I could reach with it, as shown below. I can get a bit farther with the cutoff wheel, but after I get as far as I can I'll try the sawzall again to get the other half of the crank. But if that doesn't work I'll try a chisel to see if I can break the crank. And yes, you see hammer marks on the rod. I've tried to move it down but everything is frozen. NOTHING is moving. Pearl abrasives 5" .045 disc.* Cut as deep as you can and smack it with a 4# drilling hammer. It will snap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 Pearl abrasives 5" .045 disc.* Cut as deep as you can and smack it with a 4# drilling hammer. It will snap. I'm almost as deep as I can go. A bit more and I'll be there. As for smacking it, the main part of the crank is well supported so I need the flywheel end to tilt away - and crack off. That's why I'm thinking that using a chisel to wedge it apart is the way to go. That will tilt the flywheel away and, hopefully, break the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 I'm almost as deep as I can go. A bit more and I'll be there. As for smacking it, the main part of the crank is well supported so I need the flywheel end to tilt away - and crack off. That's why I'm thinking that using a chisel to wedge it apart is the way to go. That will tilt the flywheel away and, hopefully, break the crank. The flywheel doesn't look too well supported? Cast cranks are generally pretty brittle, though I know nothing about 1950 Chevrolet's. You'll get it, and have things ready for Ian's return! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 I'm almost as deep as I can go. A bit more and I'll be there. As for smacking it, the main part of the crank is well supported so I need the flywheel end to tilt away - and crack off. That's why I'm thinking that using a chisel to wedge it apart is the way to go. That will tilt the flywheel away and, hopefully, break the crank. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png I would suspect that the crank is probably forged steel. I am pretty sure it is forged steel, no casting lines. Like this one: I believe Ford was the first to seriosly dabble in cast cranks and that was the first Windsor engines (221, 260, 289) The HiPo 289 had a high nodular iron cast crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 3 Author Share Posted August 3 I would suspect that the crank is probably forged steel. I am pretty sure it is forged steel, no casting lines. Like this one: I believe Ford was the first to seriosly dabble in cast cranks and that was the first Windsor engines (221, 260, 289) The HiPo 289 had a high nodular iron cast crank. Well, if it is forged I'm gonna have a problem. It'll probably eat saw blades and I can't get far enough with the little cutoff wheel to get through it. Maybe with a bigger cutoff wheel I can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 Well, if it is forged I'm gonna have a problem. It'll probably eat saw blades and I can't get far enough with the little cutoff wheel to get through it. Maybe with a bigger cutoff wheel I can? If you can get it slightly hot with a torch, then try to work it back and forth with some leverage somewhere... maybe you can create enough plastic deformation to break it... that is if you cannot get a big enough cut off wheel in there... if a 7" angle grinder can get it there, it should make short work of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts