Gary Lewis Posted July 28 Author Share Posted July 28 If you have to change the timing cover it needs to come off. Description I found is use the two holes for a puller. I don't know on the 235s, but our 216 had a phenolic cam gear which it ate on dad coming around Norfolk and Portsmouth on Military Highway. He was able to coast into a gas station. I think the mount goes on the outside of the timing cover so the cover doesn't need to come off. I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 29 Author Share Posted July 29 I think the mount goes on the outside of the timing cover so the cover doesn't need to come off. I hope. Got to spend a little bit of time today trying to turn the 216 over to get to the other 4 pressure plate bolts. I had it leaning to the driver's side so I poured a bunch of PB Blaster in each cylinder - which then ran out of the cylinder(s) with the crack(s) in the bore. Then I layed it down on its side on the shop crane's legs and put the pry bar on it. Nada. So I used the shop crane and a ratchet strap to put more force on the pry bar than I could myself, and shown below. Again nada, but I'm leaving it overnight to see if it might creep. And you can see the force via the bend of the pry bar. And, by the way, this is trying to rotate it backwards to the normal rotation so I can't use the "ears" in the harmonic balancer to put more twist on it as the pry bar comes out of the "ears". So I wondered if I could put air in a cylinder via the spark plug hole to help the situation. But these plugs are a lot bigger than modern plugs and I don't have an adapter that fits. So I tried to make one. I put a plug in the lathe and turned the crimp off that holds the porcelain insulator in. But the fitting that would go in is 3/8 NPT and there's just not enough meat in the spark plug shell to create threads. When I drilled it 37/64" the bit took the threads off, as shown below. So, nada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 29 Share Posted July 29 Got to spend a little bit of time today trying to turn the 216 over to get to the other 4 pressure plate bolts. I had it leaning to the driver's side so I poured a bunch of PB Blaster in each cylinder - which then ran out of the cylinder(s) with the crack(s) in the bore. Then I layed it down on its side on the shop crane's legs and put the pry bar on it. Nada. So I used the shop crane and a ratchet strap to put more force on the pry bar than I could myself, and shown below. Again nada, but I'm leaving it overnight to see if it might creep. And you can see the force via the bend of the pry bar. And, by the way, this is trying to rotate it backwards to the normal rotation so I can't use the "ears" in the harmonic balancer to put more twist on it as the pry bar comes out of the "ears". So I wondered if I could put air in a cylinder via the spark plug hole to help the situation. But these plugs are a lot bigger than modern plugs and I don't have an adapter that fits. So I tried to make one. I put a plug in the lathe and turned the crimp off that holds the porcelain insulator in. But the fitting that would go in is 3/8 NPT and there's just not enough meat in the spark plug shell to create threads. When I drilled it 37/64" the bit took the threads off, as shown below. So, nada. Gary, that is interesting on the plugs. The 1947 dad had used 10mm plugs, little bitty looking plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 29 Author Share Posted July 29 Gary, that is interesting on the plugs. The 1947 dad had used 10mm plugs, little bitty looking plugs. Bill - These are 14mm plugs. The 37 Chevy I had used the 10mm plugs, so I know what you are talking about. 14mm is 0.551". The tap drill for 3/8 NPT is 37/64ths which is .578". So you can see why I drilled the threads right off that plug. The plug shell is too big to allow 1/4" NPT connections and not big enough to take 1/2" NPT. If I really thought it would help I'd put the 1/4" connection in with a bunch of JB Weld. Or maybe solder it in. But I really doubt that 120 PSI is going to make a big difference since I don't know if any piston is near TDC with the valves closed. And if it is the wall may be cracked. So if I can't get it to move tomorrow I'll turn it upside down and start disassembling the bottom end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 Bill - These are 14mm plugs. The 37 Chevy I had used the 10mm plugs, so I know what you are talking about. 14mm is 0.551". The tap drill for 3/8 NPT is 37/64ths which is .578". So you can see why I drilled the threads right off that plug. The plug shell is too big to allow 1/4" NPT connections and not big enough to take 1/2" NPT. If I really thought it would help I'd put the 1/4" connection in with a bunch of JB Weld. Or maybe solder it in. But I really doubt that 120 PSI is going to make a big difference since I don't know if any piston is near TDC with the valves closed. And if it is the wall may be cracked. So if I can't get it to move tomorrow I'll turn it upside down and start disassembling the bottom end. Does the clutch housing have a slot below the crank flange so the crank could be removed in situ as the Brits say? I suspect it might as bearing technology in the 40s was frequently poured babbit main and rod bearings. If it does and you can get the inside bolts out with an open end wrench, it might make the clutch/flywheel removal easier. That pan will, in all probobility have oil dipper troughs and spray nozzles, and you will probably need to use it for the truck to clear the front axle. The 235 is probably a full pressure lube model as that was one of the improvements on the 235 car engine. It may still have main and rod caps that use shims to set bearing clearances even with insert bearings. Any machine shop that has been in business a long time probably has a shim kit for a 235. Too bad you couldn't find an early Hydramatic from a pre-63 Chevy 6 cyl truck. it was what the panel delivery 6 cyl models used. One of them and you could put a good highway gear in it due to the 3.84:1 first. Here is a Chevy 235 resource I just found: http://www.devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 Does the clutch housing have a slot below the crank flange so the crank could be removed in situ as the Brits say? I suspect it might as bearing technology in the 40s was frequently poured babbit main and rod bearings. If it does and you can get the inside bolts out with an open end wrench, it might make the clutch/flywheel removal easier. That pan will, in all probobility have oil dipper troughs and spray nozzles, and you will probably need to use it for the truck to clear the front axle. The 235 is probably a full pressure lube model as that was one of the improvements on the 235 car engine. It may still have main and rod caps that use shims to set bearing clearances even with insert bearings. Any machine shop that has been in business a long time probably has a shim kit for a 235. Too bad you couldn't find an early Hydramatic from a pre-63 Chevy 6 cyl truck. it was what the panel delivery 6 cyl models used. One of them and you could put a good highway gear in it due to the 3.84:1 first. Here is a Chevy 235 resource I just found: http://www.devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235 I don't know if the clutch housing has a slot, but I'll look tomorrow. Sure hope the pan on the 235 doesn't hit as I want to put it in w/o modification. I guess I'd better take some measurements. I'll follow up on that resource. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 I don't know if the clutch housing has a slot, but I'll look tomorrow. Sure hope the pan on the 235 doesn't hit as I want to put it in w/o modification. I guess I'd better take some measurements. I'll follow up on that resource. Thanks! Got the engine turned over and the pan off. Can't figure out why the engine won't rotate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 Got the engine turned over and the pan off. Can't figure out why the engine won't rotate. I'd probably slice that last rod journal with a cutoff disc so I had something to grab in the vise that won't turn while trying to get the flywheel bolts out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 I'd probably slice that last rod journal with a cutoff disc so I had something to grab in the vise that won't turn while trying to get the flywheel bolts out.... That's an idea, Jim. I've not really thought through what to do next, but I'm certainly not against cutting that crank. Everything in there is toast. I was hoping to get the back end of the crank to come up with a pry bar, but it won't wiggle. So I'm going to spend a bit more time trying to dislodge the crank before I start cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 That's an idea, Jim. I've not really thought through what to do next, but I'm certainly not against cutting that crank. Everything in there is toast. I was hoping to get the back end of the crank to come up with a pry bar, but it won't wiggle. So I'm going to spend a bit more time trying to dislodge the crank before I start cutting. I do see I remembered the clutch housing design correctly. Is #5 rod broken? I think I have seen a worse looking piece of scrap metal, but it's been a long time. It was a Chevy 292 ci 6 cyl race engine, aluminum rod in #2 cyl broke and almost sawed the block apart at #2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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