viven44 Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 There are three orifices available (coded Red, White and Blue!) 40, 60 & 90 thou I believe. Depending on how much recirculation you need. The in-tank pump is pressure limited. Thought I knew this system, but apparently not well enough If original poster comes back, hopefully he finds things to follow upon. He seems to know his system well already as he has tried several things. I have been on forums where I posed a question only to never show up again yes I have been that person... I had a discussion on that one topic... but then those were vehicles I didn't care much for as well so I was done after that one issue was resolved..., so I think if we want bullnose nuts here, it will naturally work itself out. The nuts will stay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 This nonsense is why I went with a mechanical pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 This nonsense is why I went with a mechanical pump. I still use the in-tank pumps and haven't had issues since going to the manual selector valve. I believe the one pump that died only died because of the bad selector valve. This is the replacement pump I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGFUNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Currently, I have ahead of the vapor separator a metal in-line fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge. I always see ~4-5 PSI pressure. I do agree a mechanical fuel pump further reduces variables however there is more redundancy built in the system with 2 in-tank pumps that's why I haven't deleted them. I did have my doubts though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 I still use the in-tank pumps and haven't had issues since going to the manual selector valve. I believe the one pump that died only died because of the bad selector valve. This is the replacement pump I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGFUNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Currently, I have ahead of the vapor separator a metal in-line fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge. I always see ~4-5 PSI pressure. I do agree a mechanical fuel pump further reduces variables however there is more redundancy built in the system with 2 in-tank pumps that's why I haven't deleted them. I did have my doubts though. Mechanical pumps can't prime the carb, and they suck if you let one tank run out(remember my gauges didn't work at all with Metermatch) But I am adept at noticing fuel starvation and very quick to flip the switch! Electric pumps worked in millions of trucks for billions of miles. Don't mess with success... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Mechanical pumps can't prime the carb, and they suck if you let one tank run out(remember my gauges didn't work at all with Metermatch) But I am adept at noticing fuel starvation and very quick to flip the switch! Electric pumps worked in millions of trucks for billions of miles. Don't mess with success... Why can't they prime the carb? It pumps fuel while the engine is turning over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Why can't they prime the carb? It pumps fuel while the engine is turning over. It doesn't really function the same way a pump submerged in the fuel does. It takes a LONG time for a mechanical pump with no prime to suck from 16' away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 It doesn't really function the same way a pump submerged in the fuel does. It takes a LONG time for a mechanical pump with no prime to suck from 16' away they are designed to keep up and not really to catch up. you can run a battery down trying to get a dry line set full again. this is why we fill carbs manually on new startups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 they are designed to keep up and not really to catch up. you can run a battery down trying to get a dry line set full again. this is why we fill carbs manually on new startups. A horse syringe into the vent tube works every time! Jeff in Quebec doesn't understand the difference between winter and summer gasoline. (at least they don't have some corn farmer -read BIG AGRA- subsidy up there) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 they are designed to keep up and not really to catch up. you can run a battery down trying to get a dry line set full again. this is why we fill carbs manually on new startups. I like the little tip I learned from my father-in-law. I used to remove the air cleaner and pour fuel down into the carb to start my sitting truck. He told me to just loosen the wing nut a couple turns and pour the fuel on the threaded stud, which of course is going to guide fuel down where it needs to go. I wondered why I didn't think of that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 I like the little tip I learned from my father-in-law. I used to remove the air cleaner and pour fuel down into the carb to start my sitting truck. He told me to just loosen the wing nut a couple turns and pour the fuel on the threaded stud, which of course is going to guide fuel down where it needs to go. I wondered why I didn't think of that before. My air cleaner lid is domed (to shed water) Maybe I'm not reading this right, but the rubber washer under the wingnut usually sticks to the lid. I pull the (non-existent) A.I.R. Pump inlet plug from the passenger side and spray a shot of ether onto the filter element. Or, I take the lid off and fill the bowl through the vent tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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