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Big Brother is going 3G


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So, you're going with the small diameter (135mm)95A 3G, that fits the same as your 1G?

Well, Jim, I’ve not make my choice yet.

In fact, the main goal is to keep the V-Belt layout, with the higher amperage it can support.

I read couple of testimonials here and there about guys who upgraded to 130A (!) and single v-belt.

Majority of them has belt slipping at startup, no more issue.

There was a guy who installed a custom tensioner:

So, I am wondering if this higher AMP squealing can be controlled only with LRC Voltage Regulator.

Or maybe LRC combined with a high quality single V-belt?

If not enough, can a double V-belt pulley be installed? If so, what is the belt routing, longer water pump/power steering belt going around the first V-belt notch, and the second one same routing as the original 1G?

:nabble_anim_confused:

A) if you decide 130A (148 mm diameter) you're going to want the additional adjustment range afforded by the 8.25" pivot length.

Also, I don't know anything about belt slip, except for the first couple of seconds from a tired battery.

Using a double belt means that you have to find a crank pulley with two adjacent sheaves the exact same diameter.

I haven't bothered to look for this unicorn yet, because I don't have any problems

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A) if you decide 130A (148 mm diameter) you're going to want the additional adjustment range afforded by the 8.25" pivot length.

Also, I don't know anything about belt slip, except for the first couple of seconds from a tired battery.

Using a double belt means that you have to find a crank pulley with two adjacent sheaves the exact same diameter.

I haven't bothered to look for this unicorn yet, because I don't have any problems

I think I found such a crankshaft pulley for Dad's truck. I say "think" because I've not mounted it yet to find out if the sheaves line up with the alternator's pulley - which I had to make.

The issue is that the vast majority of pulley's have different sized grooves for the belt driving the alternator vs the belt driving whatever else was installed. Apparently there are very few crank pulleys with the same sized grooves. Ditto the alternator pulley, but since those are made of aluminum and I have a lathe, I modified one. But that's not possible with the stamped crankshaft pulley.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it, at least not initially. If you have a good wrap of the belt on the pulley and an LRC regulator I think you'll be fine.

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I think I found such a crankshaft pulley for Dad's truck. I say "think" because I've not mounted it yet to find out if the sheaves line up with the alternator's pulley - which I had to make.

The issue is that the vast majority of pulley's have different sized grooves for the belt driving the alternator vs the belt driving whatever else was installed. Apparently there are very few crank pulleys with the same sized grooves. Ditto the alternator pulley, but since those are made of aluminum and I have a lathe, I modified one. But that's not possible with the stamped crankshaft pulley.

Personally I wouldn't worry about it, at least not initially. If you have a good wrap of the belt on the pulley and an LRC regulator I think you'll be fine.

Quality Power sells Small Case High Output replacement units.

Any advice about the WAI brand?

I think this is what Quality Power sells.

IMG_9645.thumb.jpeg.f7c9b3d8dcadebebe756c4f5627a2005.jpeg

IMG_9647.thumb.jpeg.3df7942b6086800c6ea77ff59b06c047.jpeg

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Quality Power sells Small Case High Output replacement units.

Any advice about the WAI brand?

I think this is what Quality Power sells.

You don't need it.

Stay with a stock 95A 3G.

The GOOD reason that the small body is limited is that the fans and heat sink are smaller and can't shed heat fast enough for more than 130 (maxed out)

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Just to be sure I understand correctly, since my main concern is the amp at idle, the different stock Ford alternators offer these values:

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

• Big Bro's 1G = 15 Amp ±

• 3G 95A = 64 Amp ±

• 3G 130A = 80 Amp ±

Jeff - I'm not sure where those curves come from, but our page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators shows that DB Electrical's tests found that Jim's 130A 3G put out 106A at ~550 engine RPM, assuming a 3:1 pulley ratio.

And that page also has the chart below from Ford's documentation on a 60A 1G. It says a 460 would have a 3:1 pulley but doesn't show that curve. But I'd guess the output would be about 30A at 550 RPM.

Using the 130A 3G ratio of 106A/130A I'd guess a 95A 3G would put out about 77A at 550 RPM. More than twice that of a 1G.

60A_Altenator_Output.thumb.jpg.2497deba3673aeb4c7b18139b859becf.jpg

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Just to be sure I understand correctly, since my main concern is the amp at idle, the different stock Ford alternators offer these values:

:nabble_thinking-26_orig:

• Big Bro's 1G = 15 Amp ±

• 3G 95A = 64 Amp ±

• 3G 130A = 80 Amp ±

What are you looking to drive at idle?

If you're concerned about output, find yourself a 200A Mitsubishi or Leece-Neville ambulance alternator.

They were made for that...

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What are you looking to drive at idle?

Jim, I use Big Bro once a month during winter time, just hauling manure trailer on the farm. And get him back in his garage.

I have a maintenance charger plugged in, but I would feel better to know that while idling there is a sufficient amperage.

That’s why I call it my “main concern”. This doesn’t mean I would not be happy with more amperage at higher rpm.

😉

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