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Big Brother is going 3G


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It was dafynition #1- Two birthdays that occur two dates very “near” on the calendar. Bill turned 78 on the 12th and his son, Matt, had a birthday yesterday, the 23rd.

As for #2, your birthday is July 1st? And the whole of Canada celebrates it? Cool!

And we don't seem to be worried about "s". It comes and goes w/o concern.

While on the birthday game, Dad's was May 21st along with my uncle who was married to dad's sister. Matt's is May 23rd (47) My best friend's is May 19th, also 78. He owns a 1995 F350 CC DRW truck, but his is a Powerstroke Diesel.

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As for #2, your birthday is July 1st? And the whole of Canada celebrates it? Cool!

Yep! I am still humbly wondering if it’s the whole country celebrating me each year.

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

Just got an email from Bob (Rocketman’s CCInnovations), he’ll ship my voltmeter next week.

So, my 1G-3G swap will be a summer vacations project, somewhere between July 22nd and August 8th.

In the meanwhile, should I right now order a Voltage Regulator with LRC, or should I wait and see if I’ll have belt slipping?

Thoughts?

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Just got an email from Bob (Rocketman’s CCInnovations), he’ll ship my voltmeter next week.

So, my 1G-3G swap will be a summer vacations project, somewhere between July 22nd and August 8th.

In the meanwhile, should I right now order a Voltage Regulator with LRC, or should I wait and see if I’ll have belt slipping?

Thoughts?

I'd go ahead and order the LRC and install it with the alternator off. I'm pretty sure you'll have belt squeal at times w/o it.

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I'd go ahead and order the LRC and install it with the alternator off. I'm pretty sure you'll have belt squeal at times w/o it.

Ok, thanks Gary for the advice.

Are there different models of LRC, I mean does my 3G needs specific type?

Or, are they all the same kind?

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Ok, thanks Gary for the advice.

Are there different models of LRC, I mean does my 3G needs specific type?

Or, are they all the same kind?

I think the regulators were the same for a long time but the brush carriers changes at some point.

This page from Quick Start shows a number of regulators, but I think this F795 might be what you want with a 2.5 second LRC.

Amazon lists a lot of regulators and most of theirs have the brushes with them. But since you are getting a new alternator you should already have new brushes. On the other hand, if you get the brushes with the regulator you don't have to make sure you get the thermal grease between the regulator and the brush carrier.

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I think the regulators were the same for a long time but the brush carriers changes at some point.

This page from Quick Start shows a number of regulators, but I think this F795 might be what you want with a 2.5 second LRC.

Amazon lists a lot of regulators and most of theirs have the brushes with them. But since you are getting a new alternator you should already have new brushes. On the other hand, if you get the brushes with the regulator you don't have to make sure you get the thermal grease between the regulator and the brush carrier.

Thanks Gary, clear and precise, as usual.

:nabble_anim_handshake:

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I think the regulators were the same for a long time but the brush carriers changes at some point.

This page from Quick Start shows a number of regulators, but I think this F795 might be what you want with a 2.5 second LRC.

Amazon lists a lot of regulators and most of theirs have the brushes with them. But since you are getting a new alternator you should already have new brushes. On the other hand, if you get the brushes with the regulator you don't have to make sure you get the thermal grease between the regulator and the brush carrier.

I know the regulator plug went from oval to D shape at some point.

We all know if you try to make something idiot-proof, humanity will make a better idiot. :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I like Maniac Electric Motors.

They can fill your starter & alternator needs.

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Jeff - It is on its way. And, by the way, here's a revised drawing from Will's thread called Alternator Upgrade Related Questions (was One-Wire Alternator Questions). He pointed out the lack of the w/bk wire wrapping from the 3-wire connector to the stator lug, so I changed that. And he asked about the big yellow wire going to the starter relay or the megafuse, so I show it can go either place.

Does that make sense?

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n152812/Finished_C610_%26_Charge_Cable_-_with_Stator_%26_Callout.jpg

One more change I would suggest is that the yellow/white sense wire from the 3G should be connected to the starter solenoid on the battery lug. The distance that sense wire is from the battery could result in a decent change in voltage and a decent change in alternator output.

Another thing is from what I remember reading is that if the sense wire is on the alternator side of the fuse, if that fuse goes, the alternator will still see voltage that changes via the regulator. On the battery side of the fuse if the fuse goes the alternator wont sense a change in voltage when the regulator commands it and will essentially shut down output from the alternator.

Many people short cut this wire looping it right back to the battery lug at the alternator, while this is cleaner it doesn't take into account what the voltage actually is at or near the battery. I saw a diagram that went with a Remy alternator post that stated that with a sense wire fleet companies reported 50% reduction in battery charge time and a 30% reduction in battery warranty claim over alternators they had before without the sense wire. Remy also states the sense wire for vehicles that don't have them should be fused and mounted directly to the positive terminal or the nearest positive common junction. All the 1990s 3G wiring diagrams I looked up also showed this sense wire terminated close to the battery in a common junction lug no different than the 1G externally regulated sense wire was terminated close to the battery at the common junction lug on the starter solenoid.

For mine I am personally leaning towards using a male spade on this sense wire on mine and plug it into the sense terminal on the OE fender mounted regulator this way I am reusing the OE sense wire and fusible link to the solenoid. I might change my mind however and just connect it directly to the solenoid with its own fuse, but I think it minimizes clutter on the battery lug at the solenoid to reuse that terminal.

I know the regulator plug went from oval to D shape at some point.

We all know if you try to make something idiot-proof, humanity will make a better idiot. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif

I like Maniac Electric Motors.

They can fill your starter & alternator needs.

The plug did change and if you get the one with the changed plug it poses a pro and a con. The pro is the newer plug is easier to unplug with a wire fuel injector style clip you depress over the older tab you have to lift that faces the alternator itself. The con is that connector is a bit of a pain to locate as I had to locate one for mine.

Regulator I went with on mine is a Motorcraft NOS unit under the number F5RU-10316-AA. Has a 14.6v set point and has a LRC from what I could find of 6 seconds.

This regulator uses a pigtail found on the following vehicles.

Crown Victoria Police Interceptor : 1993 - 1995

Lincoln Town Car : 1993 - 1995

Mercury Grand Marquis : 1993 - 1994

Mercury Mystique : 1995 - 1999

Ford Contour : 1995 - 2000

Not to be confused with the D-shaped connector found on the 1992 - 2002 Crown Victoria's without the police interceptor package.

The all too common D-shaped connector for the 3G regulator typically found on many Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles in the 1990s

17659_o-Z.thumb.jpg.49e43cbf2edec496c20045e964cc0ef7.jpg

The hard to find but I believe superior connector.

s-l500.png.55daa3635311aff9ef9bfca660637536.png

I don't know how many connectors there are, but I do know there's like four different regulator connectors when I was trying to find the one, I needed for my LRC regulator.

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