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Big Brother is going 3G


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Now that you mention it, I do have a carbon pile tester - but it doesn't work. Was given to me a couple of years ago when things were hectic and I've not checked it out to see why it doesn't work.

Aren't they pretty simple? Like carbon discs that get pushed together with the pressure from the knob to change the overall resistance? If so, what could go wrong?

Ok, I found

that shows how they work. Pretty simple, so maybe I can get mine to work and use it as the load in testing. Will take that offline for now.

Back to our regularly-scheduled program...

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Now that you mention it, I do have a carbon pile tester - but it doesn't work. Was given to me a couple of years ago when things were hectic and I've not checked it out to see why it doesn't work.

Aren't they pretty simple? Like carbon discs that get pushed together with the pressure from the knob to change the overall resistance? If so, what could go wrong?

I don't know what could go wrong.

I bought mine at Sears in the '70's

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"Plug 'n play"

Plug 'n play, these words are sweet music to my ears. Sounds gooood...

:nabble_smiley_wink:

All joking aside, I am not going that way, since I already sent my ammeter to Bob McMullen (RCCInovations) to modify it as a Voltmeter. And I have a nice harness ready to plug (thanks to Gary).

BUT, maybe some other "Plug 'n Play Aficionados" as I am could find interesting this alternative :nabble_smiley_whistling: method.

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"Plug 'n play"

Plug 'n play, these words are sweet music to my ears. Sounds gooood...

:nabble_smiley_wink:

All joking aside, I am not going that way, since I already sent my ammeter to Bob McMullen (RCCInovations) to modify it as a Voltmeter. And I have a nice harness ready to plug (thanks to Gary).

BUT, maybe some other "Plug 'n Play Aficionados" as I am could find interesting this alternative :nabble_smiley_whistling: method.

PA Performance is another marketing firm....

They've got nothing you couldn't do yourself for 1/3 the cost.

Painless seems to have an exclusive on the distributor connector you've found, for their "DS-II conversion harness"

Back on FTE I was keeping shopping lists for all these "upgrades" that you could pull together for cheap.

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It is interesting that they imply that a shunt type ammeter will be fine but that a direct reading one won't.

I have the shunt that was left over from creating the harness for Big Bro and have been trying to figure out how to test it in a controlled environment. But all I've come up with for a load is a bunch of headlights. Our H6054's are rated at 100W for both bulbs so at 12V they only pull 8.3 amps. I guess I could parallel a bunch of them, but it would take 10 of them to get into what I assume is the danger range of 80 amps.

Anyone with a better idea?

Gary, if your Mopar product has an alternator, it is a direct reading one, but is more of a charge indicator than actual alternator output. As a result when removing the cluster from older Mopars, you definitely need to disconnect the battery.

 

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Gary, if your Mopar product has an alternator, it is a direct reading one, but is more of a charge indicator than actual alternator output. As a result when removing the cluster from older Mopars, you definitely need to disconnect the battery.

Yep, Bill, it does have an alternator. And your comment reminds me that the police package for them bypassed the bukhead connector as it was a weak link to/from the ammeter.

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Haven't found the bit on how much power a v-belt pulley can handle, but have found these:

[…]

We might want to figure out how to actually clone that so it doesn't go away.

Gary, the way I do is quite simple:

• Copy the text+picts from the web page;

• Paste it in a new empty Word doc;

• If I want to get rid of the pictures hyperlink, I download each pict from the web page and use these to replace the “hyperlinked” ones in the Word doc;

• Make some final Word doc touches and layout adjustments;

• Save the Word and make also a PDF of it.

I’ll do it with the Web references you made here ans send the Word and PDF to you.

:nabble_anim_working:

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Haven't found the bit on how much power a v-belt pulley can handle, but have found these:

[…]

We might want to figure out how to actually clone that so it doesn't go away.

Gary, the way I do is quite simple:

• Copy the text+picts from the web page;

• Paste it in a new empty Word doc;

• If I want to get rid of the pictures hyperlink, I download each pict from the web page and use these to replace the “hyperlinked” ones in the Word doc;

• Make some final Word doc touches and layout adjustments;

• Save the Word and make also a PDF of it.

I’ll do it with the Web references you made here ans send the Word and PDF to you.

:nabble_anim_working:

PDF is good, Microsoft links are ABSOLUTELY anenthema to me....

Look at the fun I'm having, finding "a washer"... :nabble_anim_crazy:

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PDF is good, Microsoft links are ABSOLUTELY anenthema to me....

Look at the fun I'm having, finding "a washer"... :nabble_anim_crazy:

Jeff - There should be a way to copy the html and use that to paint the page w/o having to recreate it. But if I were to recreate it I'd just do it in Weebly. Just as you outlined but instead of pasting into Word I'd go straight to Weebly, and then Jim wouldn't have to download the Word doc. The page would open w/o that extra step.

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Jeff - There should be a way to copy the html and use that to paint the page w/o having to recreate it. But if I were to recreate it I'd just do it in Weebly. Just as you outlined but instead of pasting into Word I'd go straight to Weebly, and then Jim wouldn't have to download the Word doc. The page would open w/o that extra step.

Yep, I tried several methods.

But i’m never satisfied about the final layout results, since an html page copy/paste always carry lot of irrelevant things (adds, hyperlinks, strange fonts, etc).

I know my method is a bit complicated, but I have full control, and the Word (and PDF) resulting documents are straight clean.

How do you say… “stubborn”?

:nabble_smiley_wink:

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