AmericanSavage Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 Thanks for the share. A good portion of my job involves corrosion prevention in PCBs and substrates used in semiconductors. Over there you deal with Copper, Aluminum, not steel, but the principles are similar. HCL, often in combination with H2O2 is typically used to etch metal. If metal oxides only are to be removed then, other acids like H2SO4, H3PO4, but of course generally we don't deal with pitting etc in copper traces, if there is any pitting at all, the trace is too narrow to still be usable. I can see your approach working well here using muriatic, it will definitely do the best job of etching it and with a good job of neutralize it and rinsing it to remove all resides, and then passivating it with paint, I can see it working well. About Chlorine, in semiconductors we avoid residues of it like the plague, as it is by far the worst catalyst for long-term corrosion even in ppm levels (galvanic or electrochemical or just environmental corrosion which is most applicable for automobiles). Again, with a good rinse (ideally with deionized water like it is done in PCB/substrate manufacturing because it is more likely to attract any ions) I can see it working well especially on something that will be painted well. I wanted to suggest another approach I found recently which involves media blasting to remove all pitting. In your case that would be wonderful as you are only trying to cover a very small area. After that you can simply finish it off with paint and be done. I recently tried that in my post below https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/460-swap-into-a-78-Bronco-tp148376p149892.html This is EXCELLENT viven44. I learned something i did not know from it. I will be checking out your link. Cheers! Read your link: Ospho is fabulous, and I certainly have used it. It can be used after Muriatic on difficult jobs, and that is beneficial. Generally speaking it works great on rusty sheet metal, and it does need to be neutralized as some paints do not like it. Certainly the gooey stuff it sometimes creates, needs cleaning. I thought you did a great job on that cab floor. OK, back to regular programming: Good news and bad news. I think the general turnout of the cover turned out well fabulous. Thank you for all the input and advice. However, I think the paint I worked with and my application to highlight the Ford part stinks. It ran a bit and the imprecision of the lines bothers me. So anyway, 1 thing good, and another not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Thanks for the share. A good portion of my job involves corrosion prevention in PCBs and substrates used in semiconductors. Over there you deal with Copper, Aluminum, not steel, but the principles are similar. HCL, often in combination with H2O2 is typically used to etch metal. If metal oxides only are to be removed then, other acids like H2SO4, H3PO4, but of course generally we don't deal with pitting etc in copper traces, if there is any pitting at all, the trace is too narrow to still be usable. I can see your approach working well here using muriatic, it will definitely do the best job of etching it and with a good job of neutralize it and rinsing it to remove all resides, and then passivating it with paint, I can see it working well. About Chlorine, in semiconductors we avoid residues of it like the plague, as it is by far the worst catalyst for long-term corrosion even in ppm levels (galvanic or electrochemical or just environmental corrosion which is most applicable for automobiles). Again, with a good rinse (ideally with deionized water like it is done in PCB/substrate manufacturing because it is more likely to attract any ions) I can see it working well especially on something that will be painted well. I wanted to suggest another approach I found recently which involves media blasting to remove all pitting. In your case that would be wonderful as you are only trying to cover a very small area. After that you can simply finish it off with paint and be done. I recently tried that in my post below https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/460-swap-into-a-78-Bronco-tp148376p149892.html This is EXCELLENT viven44. I learned something i did not know from it. I will be checking out your link. Cheers! Read your link: Ospho is fabulous, and I certainly have used it. It can be used after Muriatic on difficult jobs, and that is beneficial. Generally speaking it works great on rusty sheet metal, and it does need to be neutralized as some paints do not like it. Certainly the gooey stuff it sometimes creates, needs cleaning. I thought you did a great job on that cab floor. Thank you. Appreciate it. Looks like you have a done a lot of work to your truck as well in the rust department, very nice!! About that ford logo, once I painted the letters on a tailgate with white paint, it didn't turn out well. I then decided to buff it with a 600 grit sandpaper and that made it obtain a whitewash finish and also knocked out the rough paint edges. It worked out super good!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 Thank you. Appreciate it. Looks like you have a done a lot of work to your truck as well in the rust department, very nice!! About that ford logo, once I painted the letters on a tailgate with white paint, it didn't turn out well. I then decided to buff it with a 600 grit sandpaper and that made it obtain a whitewash finish and also knocked out the rough paint edges. It worked out super good!! Oh I am going to consider this....thank you, and thank you for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 On painting cover letters. I think the Ford emblem is too small for this, but, paiting the letters, then taping off and using Xacto knife, can produce things like this on large letters: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 On painting cover letters. I think the Ford emblem is too small for this, but, paiting the letters, then taping off and using Xacto knife, can produce things like this on large letters: Beautiful job! 312 Y-block perchance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Beautiful job! 312 Y-block perchance? That was not me but another talented guy: here is the link! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/painting-those-raised-letter-valve-covers.300930/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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