Phillip G. Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 stop and consider this. first off was the truck originally an efi? I know you already said so but I'm playing Matlock for a minute. did the truck have an in-tank pump matched with a high-pressure rail pump? if so, you can use the in tank (low pressure) pump to feed a carburetor. I have done many this way and it works perfectly. in some cases, you may need to add a fuel pressure regulator. but not always. this has a couple benefits. one is that all of the wiring stays as is except for the deletion of the rail pump. next is that you keep the return line compatibility which is very similar to fords "hot fuel" circuit on the 460. third, why buy a pump when you already have one? and you keep the safety switch intact under the glove box to shut off the pump in the case of a hard impact. Hey Matt! Yes, originally I considered using the tank pump. However it reads the resistance backwards which of course gives a false reading at the gauge. So, I'd have to buy a pump regardless but I do like that idea. I assume you're saying to just keep the wiring as it is in case I ever wanted to go back to the EFI setup. If so, that's not a bad idea either. I would like to use the original fuel lines as you pointed out too. I was just thinking that a mechanical pump would put the psi where it needed to be. The guy that started this has all the engine bay wiring harness out of the loom and it's literally a spider web... lol. I've also got to put an inline ballast resistor going to the ignition coil. It has the old cylinder ignition coil and points distributor. I need to see where he's getting the coil power from because it's burned up a coil already that he installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Hey Matt! Yes, originally I considered using the tank pump. However it reads the resistance backwards which of course gives a false reading at the gauge. So, I'd have to buy a pump regardless but I do like that idea. I assume you're saying to just keep the wiring as it is in case I ever wanted to go back to the EFI setup. If so, that's not a bad idea either. I would like to use the original fuel lines as you pointed out too. I was just thinking that a mechanical pump would put the psi where it needed to be. The guy that started this has all the engine bay wiring harness out of the loom and it's literally a spider web... lol. I've also got to put an inline ballast resistor going to the ignition coil. It has the old cylinder ignition coil and points distributor. I need to see where he's getting the coil power from because it's burned up a coil already that he installed. There is a solution to the backwards reading on the fuel gauge - MeterMatch. It supposedly converts any sender to any gauge, but I'm using one to convert a 96 sender to a Bullnose gauge. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Hey Matt! Yes, originally I considered using the tank pump. However it reads the resistance backwards which of course gives a false reading at the gauge. So, I'd have to buy a pump regardless but I do like that idea. I assume you're saying to just keep the wiring as it is in case I ever wanted to go back to the EFI setup. If so, that's not a bad idea either. I would like to use the original fuel lines as you pointed out too. I was just thinking that a mechanical pump would put the psi where it needed to be. The guy that started this has all the engine bay wiring harness out of the loom and it's literally a spider web... lol. I've also got to put an inline ballast resistor going to the ignition coil. It has the old cylinder ignition coil and points distributor. I need to see where he's getting the coil power from because it's burned up a coil already that he installed. Because the way EFI coils are wired they get full power all the time, instead of just while cranking. There's too much dwell for a DS-II coil, instead of the little square coil the FI trucks have.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Hey Matt! Yes, originally I considered using the tank pump. However it reads the resistance backwards which of course gives a false reading at the gauge. So, I'd have to buy a pump regardless but I do like that idea. I assume you're saying to just keep the wiring as it is in case I ever wanted to go back to the EFI setup. If so, that's not a bad idea either. I would like to use the original fuel lines as you pointed out too. I was just thinking that a mechanical pump would put the psi where it needed to be. The guy that started this has all the engine bay wiring harness out of the loom and it's literally a spider web... lol. I've also got to put an inline ballast resistor going to the ignition coil. It has the old cylinder ignition coil and points distributor. I need to see where he's getting the coil power from because it's burned up a coil already that he installed. I'm not sure about something. is the truck not an 86? is the fuel pump not an 86? the sender for the gauge is not affected if it has all original wiring. then you are just using the pump that you already have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip G. Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 I'm not sure about something. is the truck not an 86? is the fuel pump not an 86? the sender for the gauge is not affected if it has all original wiring. then you are just using the pump that you already have. Yes, 5/1986 production date. It has original wiring to the tank pump that of course is a pump/sender combination. I removed the tank pump and manually raised the float upwards and it went to E at the gauge. Manually move the float down all the way and it goes to F at the gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Yes, 5/1986 production date. It has original wiring to the tank pump that of course is a pump/sender combination. I removed the tank pump and manually raised the float upwards and it went to E at the gauge. Manually move the float down all the way and it goes to F at the gauge. So someone put a later sending unit in a Bullnose. That's where the MeterMatch comes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip G. Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 Because the way EFI coils are wired they get full power all the time, instead of just while cranking. There's too much dwell for a DS-II coil, instead of the little square coil the FI trucks have.. Yes Jim. The truck doesn't even have an ignition control module. The wiring is hacked and someone is feeding a cylinder DS II coil & points distributor from somewhere which I'll trace down when I have time. By the way, I do have an '82 F250HD with the heavy rear axle. It was a 351M truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Yes Jim. The truck doesn't even have an ignition control module. The wiring is hacked and someone is feeding a cylinder DS II coil & points distributor from somewhere which I'll trace down when I have time. By the way, I do have an '82 F250HD with the heavy rear axle. It was a 351M truck. Just FYI, an '82 F250 should have come with a 400, not a 351M. The M was last used in '81 and the 351W was introduced for '82. But the 400 was retained for '82 and then replaced by the re-introduced 460 in '83. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip G. Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 So someone put a later sending unit in a Bullnose. That's where the MeterMatch comes in. I guess so Gary. Just another reason to go back all mechanical and older ignition system with this hack mess. Thanks for letting me know that '82 was a 400cid. I've been a '67 thru '71 Ford truck guy for 42 years. Anymore, I get the later years mixed up. But, I'm here to learn the Bullnose trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I guess so Gary. Just another reason to go back all mechanical and older ignition system with this hack mess. Thanks for letting me know that '82 was a 400cid. I've been a '67 thru '71 Ford truck guy for 42 years. Anymore, I get the later years mixed up. But, I'm here to learn the Bullnose trucks. so, you have more of a mixed bag already. that can muddy the waters a bit. even still, getting a fuel pump module for an efi 1986 should be a clean option. or getting a sending unit for an 86 with the 4.9 will give you the correct readings and allow an external pump whether mechanical or electric. staying with an 85/86 year should fit the tank as earlier tanks had a smaller hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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