viven44 Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 I have never used an electric fan before but that seems to be the hip thing to do so I wanted to see a path to potentially doing it. This Bronco is new to me overall, I don't know the condition of the transmission but I know it was running and used by a 'kid' for mudding a couple of times. It is in too nice a shape to be used for mudding, but hey I'm glad he did otherwise I wouldn't have acquired it as a 'project'. Last time it ran was when he went mudding deep at "rednecks with paychecks" and I think the engine (400) had got a big hot potentially and it was in the process of being rebuilt but the rebuild stopped due to his personal circumstances. It was parked for about 3 years and then I acquired it. I sold the never-started/non-running long block for a good chunk with all the fancy heads since my plan was to do a 460 swap anyway. Also when I had acquired it the Bronco had sat for approx 3 years and when I got it, the transmission dipstick wasn't in all the way and it wouldn't even go in all the way even with force so I have always been concerned about rain water and debris from being parked out for 3 years. Long story short, transmission is my biggest worry, not to mention the additional stress that the 460 will be placing on it. I would assume it was good before the engine work had commenced. I went ahead and decided to do a pan / filter change today. Had no idea that I would be getting out ~7 quarts from the pan only. The 4WDs use a deep pan I guess. Found a lot of black sediment at the bottom but fluid was clean and red. Also wanted to report that the bullnose radiator hoses did not work, not even close. No surprise there. I did a gamble with the hoses meant for a 78 Bronco 400 and wanted to report that they worked really well. The lower hose fits really good, no kinks or anything. Straight as can be. The upper hose needed about 1.5 inches trimming and kind of has a minor kink where it does a 45 degree, but I've seen that level of minor kink even on stock hoses. I need to see if I take out the spring from the old hose and use it on this to address this. Part numbers for a 460 swap with a super cooling radiator Gates 21045 - Upper Radiator Hose Gates 21053 - Lower Radiator Hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I have never used an electric fan before but that seems to be the hip thing to do so I wanted to see a path to potentially doing it. This Bronco is new to me overall, I don't know the condition of the transmission but I know it was running and used by a 'kid' for mudding a couple of times. It is in too nice a shape to be used for mudding, but hey I'm glad he did otherwise I wouldn't have acquired it as a 'project'. Last time it ran was when he went mudding deep at "rednecks with paychecks" and I think the engine (400) had got a big hot potentially and it was in the process of being rebuilt but the rebuild stopped due to his personal circumstances. It was parked for about 3 years and then I acquired it. I sold the never-started/non-running long block for a good chunk with all the fancy heads since my plan was to do a 460 swap anyway. Also when I had acquired it the Bronco had sat for approx 3 years and when I got it, the transmission dipstick wasn't in all the way and it wouldn't even go in all the way even with force so I have always been concerned about rain water and debris from being parked out for 3 years. Long story short, transmission is my biggest worry, not to mention the additional stress that the 460 will be placing on it. I would assume it was good before the engine work had commenced. I went ahead and decided to do a pan / filter change today. Had no idea that I would be getting out ~7 quarts from the pan only. The 4WDs use a deep pan I guess. Found a lot of black sediment at the bottom but fluid was clean and red. If you only dropped the pan you did less than half the job. There's another 8 - 9 quarts in the torque converter, and while you are doing it you should drain that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 If you only dropped the pan you did less than half the job. There's another 8 - 9 quarts in the torque converter, and while you are doing it you should drain that. Already did that while the engine was out. Forgot to mention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Already did that while the engine was out. Forgot to mention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 I do have a leak near the shift linkage/kickdown rod. There is a "Throttle Control Outer Lever Oil Seal" which leaks very often. It is not a typical o-ring but a Ford special seal. Bad part is most people replace it with the closest O-ring they can find. The only other way to replace it is by getting a full rebuild kit. I luckily came across the very last NOS I could find on eBay and ordered it and its a 10 pack which should last a lifetime! Hoping it fixes it. Getting tricky to keep these old trucks!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/235338407330?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ew9F7E03R0S&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=nUjJ1bE2RVS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 If my understanding is correct the stock Bullnose gauge will go full scale when 70A is conducted through the shunt, it either direction. I don't have an easy way to create that amount of current as most of my loads would be way under that, and my winch and inverter would be way over it. But if you want to run a test then figure out how to put a load like that on the system and you should see the ammeter swing. We have ways.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I'm intrigued though. If the stock shunt wire isn't making the ammeter go full scale, would that mean not much voltage drop is occurring through that shunt wire i.e. is the stock shunt wire oversized ? I think I'm missing something... The stock shunt wire supplies ALL power to the cab, switched and non-switched (2 fuselinks) Do you want it heating up when you have the blower and wipers on? What about XLT trucks with power windows and clearance lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 We have ways.... Nice instruments, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 I'm intrigued though. If the stock shunt wire isn't making the ammeter go full scale, would that mean not much voltage drop is occurring through that shunt wire i.e. is the stock shunt wire oversized ? I think I'm missing something... The stock shunt wire supplies ALL power to the cab, switched and non-switched (2 fuselinks) Do you want it heating up when you have the blower and wipers on? What about XLT trucks with power windows and clearance lights? Yes I’m glad it’s oversized. I always go down 2 AWG in life I was wondering if it was oversized adequately to handle a 3G alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Yes I’m glad it’s oversized. I always go down 2 AWG in life I was wondering if it was oversized adequately to handle a 3G alternator. What loads do you intend to put on the existing cab harness, that would exceed 70A? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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