Gary Lewis Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 I was covered head to toe since I had some warning from you!! I found a bunch in my ears still. My goal is to use the POR-15 system which has a metal prep to help neutralize any remaining rust. The process works extremely fast for stripping paint as paint molecules are weak. The difficult part which took a lot of blasting was actually smoothing down the pitted areas. That is actual physical bombardment to remove metal atoms. But hard to strip hopefully means whatever is remaining is very sound and will last. I now have a gameplan to strip paint from the old hood in areas with surface rust Be VERY careful with things like hoods. You can easily heat the metal and cause waves in it, which you cannot get out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Be VERY careful with things like hoods. You can easily heat the metal and cause waves in it, which you cannot get out. Noted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 If everything looked like in the blue circle it would be ideal. There is a lot of roughness still there. The area in the purple circle is very rough. If I blasted it enough it becomes like the area in the red circle. The area in the purple circle, if that is considered bare metal, I would go to paint but I’m afraid it’s partly oxidized. The whole pan is still very solid though. I could have spent more time blasting, but with my eye protection fogging up and all that dust I kind of had to pause. Which is why I said I'd use phosphoric acid. Or citric or oxcylic acid, but these don't change rust into iron phosphate which is inert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Which is why I said I'd use phosphoric acid. Or citric or oxcylic acid, but these don't change rust into iron phosphate which is inert. The black rust is the good variety.. Iron 2 oxide Fe3O4 and more stable. I think if I do an etch using the POR-15 metal etch chemistry it will remove any low-level iron 3 oxide and promote adhesion of POR-15 to Iron 2 oxide. Iron phosphate. Now thats something. The famous Iron pillar of delhi has it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_pillar_of_Delhi I'm going to look into phosphoric acid!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 The black rust is the good variety.. Iron 2 oxide Fe3O4 and more stable. I think if I do an etch using the POR-15 metal etch chemistry it will remove any low-level iron 3 oxide and promote adhesion of POR-15 to Iron 2 oxide. Iron phosphate. Now thats something. The famous Iron pillar of delhi has it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_pillar_of_Delhi I'm going to look into phosphoric acid!!! It's STILL iron oxide, not iron phosphate or iron tannate.(from oak and other things with high tannic acid) IMHO no rust is "good" rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 It's STILL iron oxide, not iron phosphate or iron tannate.(from oak and other things with high tannic acid) IMHO no rust is "good" rust. I'm looking into phosphoric acid now!! Sounds like after phosphoric acid application, you don't rinse off. Just remove any residue and its ready for primer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 I'm looking into phosphoric acid now!! Sounds like after phosphoric acid application, you don't rinse off. Just remove any residue and its ready for primer ? I've mentioned this stuff multiple times, as a far less expensive alternative to Ospho. You can easily get the instructions and SDS online. (correct run-on word) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 I've mentioned this stuff multiple times, as a far less expensive alternative to Ospho. You can easily get the instructions and SDS online. (correct run-on word) OK cool You know your stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 OK cool You know your stuff I'm wrangling the kids this weekend with wife in a church camp. I went to Home depot and ace hardware and no one had phosphoric acid. Another home depot location had 3 Klean strips in stock but it was a drive. Just decided to pick up the POR-15 kit from Autozone that comes with degreaser, metal prep (phosphoric acid mainly) and about 4oz POR-15. Kit says it will cover two coats up to 6 sq ft so it should be sufficient. I understand what you meant Jim. I have to find time to do 2-3 coats of POR-15 and then a final top coat, all about 3-4 hours spaced apart. Its going to be a pain. Its just the pans to be really well sealed so decided to take the proven POR-15 approach as the kit comes with phosphoric acid. Just about everyone including project farm has come out with POR-15 on top in their testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I'm wrangling the kids this weekend with wife in a church camp. I went to Home depot and ace hardware and no one had phosphoric acid. Another home depot location had 3 Klean strips in stock but it was a drive. Just decided to pick up the POR-15 kit from Autozone that comes with degreaser, metal prep (phosphoric acid mainly) and about 4oz POR-15. Kit says it will cover two coats up to 6 sq ft so it should be sufficient. I understand what you meant Jim. I have to find time to do 2-3 coats of POR-15 and then a final top coat, all about 3-4 hours spaced apart. Its going to be a pain. Its just the pans to be really well sealed so decided to take the proven POR-15 approach as the kit comes with phosphoric acid. Just about everyone including project farm has come out with POR-15 on top in their testing. I bought it....once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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