viven44 Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 I have a nice vacuum diagram in color for a 1986 carbureted 460 with C6. That would be nice to see! The one below from my other 84 460 truck is what I’ve used as a reference so far. I had it routed in a similar way however the VDV is not present at the moment, but I have a couple of spares that could be used. So far with my distributor it appears there isn't sufficient advance to use EGR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 22" is very good vacuum at idle. But I think there's something wrong if you are getting exhaust gas into the intake at idle. I'm pretty sure that you are only supposed to get exhaust gas when under partial load, meaning cruise but not idle nor WOT. However, if you aren't getting pinging then your distributor may be set up for a non-EGR system, although that would be surprising. Still, if it is running when w/o EGR then I'd leave EGR off. You are correct. Looking at the vacuum diagram, I assume the E port on the carburetor is ported vacuum... so I didn't run the vacuum lines correctly the first time and thats why EGR was open at idle. I did try another test case where the vacuum was sourced from the ported vacuum port of the carburetor. Again there, at around 1500 rpm (Still parked) things were not very smooth, both in vacuum gauge and also I could tell the engine wasn't very happy (minor vibrations and such from maybe low-level misfires....). I assume this would also be the case while actually cruising in gear ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 You are correct. Looking at the vacuum diagram, I assume the E port on the carburetor is ported vacuum... so I didn't run the vacuum lines correctly the first time and thats why EGR was open at idle. I did try another test case where the vacuum was sourced from the ported vacuum port of the carburetor. Again there, at around 1500 rpm (Still parked) things were not very smooth, both in vacuum gauge and also I could tell the engine wasn't very happy (minor vibrations and such from maybe low-level misfires....). I assume this would also be the case while actually cruising in gear ??? Another piece of info for 460 swap into 78 Bronco to document. 78 vs 79 Broncos. The 79 is more bull-nosey in that it uses a throttle cable with spring. The 78 is old school throttle rod. Thankful I found a 60s mustang throttle rod that worked finally. Part# C5ZZ-9A702D Found also differences in emissions. No EVAP system in 78, while 79 had similar EVAP system as Bullnose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Another piece of info for 460 swap into 78 Bronco to document. 78 vs 79 Broncos. The 79 is more bull-nosey in that it uses a throttle cable with spring. The 78 is old school throttle rod. Thankful I found a 60s mustang throttle rod that worked finally. Part# C5ZZ-9A702D Found also differences in emissions. No EVAP system in 78, while 79 had similar EVAP system as Bullnose. Moving onto the part that I hoped I would get to one day The rear half floors are perfect. Just needs a good cleaning. The driver and passenger side floor pans are also very solid and sturdy, except for surface rust and pitting in some areas. I am not sure if Dentside sheet metal was thicker or what but it is really sturdy even in the pitted areas. I used a wire wheel to go over them pretty hard and no surprises. Passes the screw driver test as well. Thinking of - using wire wheel to remove anything thats loose off the floor, - and then 3 step POR-15 (Gray), - and then primer, and yellow color matched paint. Once this is done I'm going to do an ACC carpet set with sound proofing and water proof mass backing. What do y'all think of that plan ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Moving onto the part that I hoped I would get to one day The rear half floors are perfect. Just needs a good cleaning. The driver and passenger side floor pans are also very solid and sturdy, except for surface rust and pitting in some areas. I am not sure if Dentside sheet metal was thicker or what but it is really sturdy even in the pitted areas. I used a wire wheel to go over them pretty hard and no surprises. Passes the screw driver test as well. Thinking of - using wire wheel to remove anything thats loose off the floor, - and then 3 step POR-15 (Gray), - and then primer, and yellow color matched paint. Once this is done I'm going to do an ACC carpet set with sound proofing and water proof mass backing. What do y'all think of that plan ? if you are going with a floor covering then once it is fully sealed with the por15 I would stop there. why prime and paint when its already sealed? and por15 might not hold the other anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 if you are going with a floor covering then once it is fully sealed with the por15 I would stop there. why prime and paint when its already sealed? and por15 might not hold the other anyway. Good question. I am planning on using POR-15 only in areas where there is surface rust, and my plan is to get things all blended in after POR-15 is done. I am buying a lot of paint (Bulk primer, Base coat - Wimbledon white and Bright Yellow) from my favorite local paint shop. I will need to paint the hood and do touch ups on the body, there will be a lot of leftovers. Per POR-15 FAQs "You may apply most coatings over POR-15 when it has just dried and still has a slight friction/resistance while dragging your finger along the surface (dry but slightly tacky) or has completely dried and has been sanded and cleaned with our Cleaner Degreaser." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Moving onto the part that I hoped I would get to one day The rear half floors are perfect. Just needs a good cleaning. The driver and passenger side floor pans are also very solid and sturdy, except for surface rust and pitting in some areas. I am not sure if Dentside sheet metal was thicker or what but it is really sturdy even in the pitted areas. I used a wire wheel to go over them pretty hard and no surprises. Passes the screw driver test as well. Thinking of - using wire wheel to remove anything thats loose off the floor, - and then 3 step POR-15 (Gray), - and then primer, and yellow color matched paint. Once this is done I'm going to do an ACC carpet set with sound proofing and water proof mass backing. What do y'all think of that plan ? I'm not a fan of manual abrasion (or POR 15 ) myself. Not to say you can't get a good enough job, but if you're paying actual money at a physical auto body supply... Strip or media blast it. Use an acid etching DTM epoxy primer/sealer and the topcoat of your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 I'm not a fan of manual abrasion (or POR 15 ) myself. Not to say you can't get a good enough job, but if you're paying actual money at a physical auto body supply... Strip or media blast it. Use an acid etching DTM epoxy primer/sealer and the topcoat of your choice. I like POR15. But it is the pits trying to get something to adhere to it when it dries. So I put my topcoat on when it is tacky, and it sticks well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 I'm not a fan of manual abrasion (or POR 15 ) myself. Not to say you can't get a good enough job, but if you're paying actual money at a physical auto body supply... Strip or media blast it. Use an acid etching DTM epoxy primer/sealer and the topcoat of your choice. I will be painting it myself. I'm going for an overall patina look so it won't need to be perfect (I need to consciously ensure I get a patina finish on the hood and not make it look too nice). I will color match the hood and some minor touch ups, that's about the only goal I have paint wise. I have thought about media blasting. I probably will end up doing that, is there a good portable setup available ? This one looks like a decent starter option in combination with glass beads... Just need respirators I suppose and a good cover and clean up. https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 I like POR15. But it is the pits trying to get something to adhere to it when it dries. So I put my topcoat on when it is tacky, and it sticks well. Noted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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