ArdWrknTrk Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 strategic drains are well worth doing. an example for this can easily be the rear shock mounts. these are mounted inside the frame channels pointing up at a 45-degree angle and are cupped. they are like catchers' mitts for dirt, road salt and water. they are riveted in tight and don't drain well if at all. this creates the perfect storm for rust jacking and even a perforated frame. when replacing these I grind a drain slot at the low point then re paint the whole part before install. if I'm saving a frame that does not need new mounts, I drill a hole in the frame at basically the same spot. 3/8" seems to be big enough to be able to fully paint/seal and stay clear and that's big enough to be able to flush it out with a hose occasionally. this same theory can help many areas on the body and frame. key point is to avoid holding water. i have seen many with rubber floor liners just hose out their cabs to clean them oblivious to all of the place's water gets and gets trapped. rust happens! odors happen! mold happens! and even insects. The Dorman replacements come with drain holes (as do the rear spring mounts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 The Dorman replacements come with drain holes (as do the rear spring mounts) they do but I open them up a bit also. and I've drilled a few rear shackle hangers drains too. the hardest place for me to be thorough is the closed in point where the steering box mounts to the frame. being a blind spot with crush supports inside also makes it difficult. just because I have a hard time getting in there does not mean it's impossible for road salt. it needs doing or I might not sleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 they do but I open them up a bit also. and I've drilled a few rear shackle hangers drains too. the hardest place for me to be thorough is the closed in point where the steering box mounts to the frame. being a blind spot with crush supports inside also makes it difficult. just because I have a hard time getting in there does not mean it's impossible for road salt. it needs doing or I might not sleep. I wonder if hitting that spot with some cavity wax before bolting up the steering box would help, by keeping any moisture from possibly getting trapped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 I wonder if hitting that spot with some cavity wax before bolting up the steering box would help, by keeping any moisture from possibly getting trapped? I was going to start sanding the fiberglass repairs one of the POs did. When I looked closely, there are brown spots in the repairs. I am assuming that the PO didn't properly prepare the metal before glassing it. Your thoughts about the spots? If it is rust coming thru the repair, what's the best way to tackle it, sanding, Dremel tool with cutting wheel and cut the patch out? Replace panels aren't an option at this time, but I want to stop the rust before further damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I was going to start sanding the fiberglass repairs one of the POs did. When I looked closely, there are brown spots in the repairs. I am assuming that the PO didn't properly prepare the metal before glassing it. Your thoughts about the spots? If it is rust coming thru the repair, what's the best way to tackle it, sanding, Dremel tool with cutting wheel and cut the patch out? Replace panels aren't an option at this time, but I want to stop the rust before further damage. I wasn't aware that it already had fiberglass repairs. If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it ? Unfortunately, all those brown areas are rust. You need to use a flap disc (40 or 60 grit) to expose bare metal in those areas. In the process some of the fiberglass will be damaged (Which is fine). You can fiber glass over that. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinding-cutting-wheels/flap-discs.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 I wasn't aware that it already had fiberglass repairs. If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it ? Unfortunately, all those brown areas are rust. You need to use a flap disc (40 or 60 grit) to expose bare metal in those areas. In the process some of the fiberglass will be damaged (Which is fine). You can fiber glass over that. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinding-cutting-wheels/flap-discs.html If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it? The truck has been in PA. since it was new. My neighbor thinks PA. has laws about rust. One of the POs may have just covered over the rust to pass state inspection which makes sense because the fiberglass has high and low spots like it was just slapped on. I appreciate the info on the flap discs. It's supposed the get cold for a few days, then I'll attack it. I'll have an "everything must go" job. I don't like doin; things twice so I may wait 'til after taxes and do the replacement panels. uess I have too much time on my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I wasn't aware that it already had fiberglass repairs. If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it ? Unfortunately, all those brown areas are rust. You need to use a flap disc (40 or 60 grit) to expose bare metal in those areas. In the process some of the fiberglass will be damaged (Which is fine). You can fiber glass over that. https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinding-cutting-wheels/flap-discs.html If the PO started the fiber glass repair, why didn't he finish it? The truck has been in PA. since it was new. My neighbor thinks PA. has laws about rust. One of the POs may have just covered over the rust to pass state inspection which makes sense because the fiberglass has high and low spots like it was just slapped on. I appreciate the info on the flap discs. It's supposed the get cold for a few days, then I'll attack it. I'll have an "everything must go" job. I don't like doin; things twice so I may wait 'til after taxes and do the replacement panels. uess I have too much time on my hands. At least some parts of PA requires an annual safety inspection. You can't have any jagged holes in Delco, for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 At least some parts of PA requires an annual safety inspection. You can't have any jagged holes in Delco, for sure. Thanks Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 At least some parts of PA requires an annual safety inspection. You can't have any jagged holes in Delco, for sure. Don't y'all have a 'guy' for state inspections I am the safety inspector on my trucks . My 'guy' will pass just about anything that moves under its own power. From 2025 it doesn't even matter as Texas is getting rid of state inspections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Don't y'all have a 'guy' for state inspections I am the safety inspector on my trucks . My 'guy' will pass just about anything that moves under its own power. From 2025 it doesn't even matter as Texas is getting rid of state inspections. Just because you "can" doesn't mean you should.... Watch "Just Rolled In" on YouTube and realize the dangerous you're sharing the roads with! Your wife, kids, parents are out there with these crackheads rolling in their :nabble_poo-23_orig:boxes, waiting for a gas tank to fall off in an accident and immolate everyone involved. I have to tow these wrecks (every day!) Jagged metal on a vehicle will slice you in half at 30... Laugh all you want. You're the problem not the solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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