ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Here is another thread, looks like NumberDummy isn't their biggest proponent https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1230466-does-lmc-truck-have-good-quality-parts-2.html Hard to believe LMC is a "middle-man". They are at least the best "middle men" I've come across. NumberDummy on FTE, and a the legends on this forum, I've been learning from you guys for many years so not trying to say anything to the contrary!! I am just the "Trust but verify" type You've read what's been written about their customer service, or lack thereof.... And how much they act on important issues like catalog parts that are mis-numbered. The other day I linked a video of a guy cleaning the frame of his f-450 Guess what's going to happen when he goes to put that cab on and has the wrong rear cab mounts, because the number is wrong? They've had this brought to their attention for YEARS, but they can't be bothered to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 on the door edges the hard part is accessing the whole area that you need to. I am about to do one also, the chrome rain guard needs to be removed. sometimes it's the cause of the damage. the felt/rubber glass track needs to be removed, and if its a joining area the vent window also. wire brush all rusty spots paying attention to all paint edges and clean until you are creating a clean edge. treat with rust converter. let dry before sanding and skimming with filler. wire brushing smooths over the steel with a "galling" affect where sanding cuts. sanding is needed to give a bit of mechanical bond to the filler. this is the time to order new glass track gaskets also as they likely will not be worth putting back. many are so brittle that they come out one chip at a time like pulling wallpaper. but if you dont get a 360 seal on a rust spot you are inviting it back. the rear quarter lower edge is much more accessible. that place can be repaired easily with a small sheet of the same gauge sheet and a small wire feed welder. great place to practice. I too am old fashioned as I only repair steel with steel and fiberglass with fiberglass. Thanks Matt, this is a big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 We usually call that 'burnishing'.. Some oil in the pinch welds at the bottom of the door, and making sure the drains are open goes a long way. Thanks Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Here’s pretty much the same deal done on a bullnose. Full disclosure In this case the truck needed to be fixed to be sold. It was in really good shape otherwise. Bought for parts but decided to make her a daily driver as she was too good to be scrapped. I tried to sell it with the rust holes but no one was able to see past these rust spots. Told them it would only cost about $150 and some labor to fix but no one believed me. A guy told me he would buy it if I fixed it so I did. I stand by this job, it will last but Welding body panels is definitely the “by the book” approach. In this case the rust was caused by the “holes” on the bed rail getting filled with debris. For rust from salt there may be other considerations. The most important part was to plug the bed rail "holes" with some harbor freight anchor inserts (you can see them in the pics on the bed rail) after the job was done to prevent more debris from getting in which was done. I used - 3 layers of Bondo fiber glass cloth / resin first to form a skin. I didn't want to use "Bondo Fiber Glass" alone to cover up large hole (both inner and outer wells areas) - cover up holes using the green “Bondo Fiber Glass” - 60 grit sanding using flap disc to Sand above - regular bondo just to contour. The most important part is to ensure the regular bondo never sees water ever. So the fiber glass system should completely encapsulate everything with no holes to be covered up with regular Bondo. - sandable spray primer, sanded smooth to about 800 grit - color matched rattle can paint, matched by a shop from gas cap. Job was too small to bring out the big guns but it would have been a cheaper overall to use a paint gun with 1 quart paint vs 2 rattle cans at $30 each :) - just regular 1K clear coat. I normally use 2K clear coat on a larger paint job. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/604D1FFB-DE90-4718-94A9-DFC9BE893933.png https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/D042D300-8B25-4222-8F0F-FA9B98C97E74.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/050FEA34-643B-4B0B-9B27-29FD87CBC99C.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/B488D4F3-42C6-4893-A4F1-6B4AD8019923.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/EE883F26-C356-4BE6-9975-A4441AC548BA.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/5A42CF83-6A73-4567-880D-AAF90885874E.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/F615D2F6-897B-4E98-A899-CCA6807B7442.jpeg This is excellent, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Here’s pretty much the same deal done on a bullnose. Full disclosure In this case the truck needed to be fixed to be sold. It was in really good shape otherwise. Bought for parts but decided to make her a daily driver as she was too good to be scrapped. I tried to sell it with the rust holes but no one was able to see past these rust spots. Told them it would only cost about $150 and some labor to fix but no one believed me. A guy told me he would buy it if I fixed it so I did. I stand by this job, it will last but Welding body panels is definitely the “by the book” approach. In this case the rust was caused by the “holes” on the bed rail getting filled with debris. For rust from salt there may be other considerations. The most important part was to plug the bed rail "holes" with some harbor freight anchor inserts (you can see them in the pics on the bed rail) after the job was done to prevent more debris from getting in which was done. I used - 3 layers of Bondo fiber glass cloth / resin first to form a skin. I didn't want to use "Bondo Fiber Glass" alone to cover up large hole (both inner and outer wells areas) - cover up holes using the green “Bondo Fiber Glass” - 60 grit sanding using flap disc to Sand above - regular bondo just to contour. The most important part is to ensure the regular bondo never sees water ever. So the fiber glass system should completely encapsulate everything with no holes to be covered up with regular Bondo. - sandable spray primer, sanded smooth to about 800 grit - color matched rattle can paint, matched by a shop from gas cap. Job was too small to bring out the big guns but it would have been a cheaper overall to use a paint gun with 1 quart paint vs 2 rattle cans at $30 each :) - just regular 1K clear coat. I normally use 2K clear coat on a larger paint job. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/604D1FFB-DE90-4718-94A9-DFC9BE893933.png https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/D042D300-8B25-4222-8F0F-FA9B98C97E74.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/050FEA34-643B-4B0B-9B27-29FD87CBC99C.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/B488D4F3-42C6-4893-A4F1-6B4AD8019923.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/EE883F26-C356-4BE6-9975-A4441AC548BA.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/5A42CF83-6A73-4567-880D-AAF90885874E.jpeg https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148116/F615D2F6-897B-4E98-A899-CCA6807B7442.jpeg This is excellent, thank you! Had some time so I descided to work on the paint, Used a 6 inch palm sander wirh bonnets as I figured the paint was thin and didn't want to use a compound pad. Red dleaned up nice, silver has some shine but I may try the compound pad on it> Washed, used leaf blower, drying towel, 2 passes of compound & wax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Had some time so I descided to work on the paint, Used a 6 inch palm sander wirh bonnets as I figured the paint was thin and didn't want to use a compound pad. Red dleaned up nice, silver has some shine but I may try the compound pad on it> Washed, used leaf blower, drying towel, 2 passes of compound & wax. I wish my truck looked that good! I'm sure the effort was worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 I wish my truck looked that good! I'm sure the effort was worth it. Thanks Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 I wish my truck looked that good! I'm sure the effort was worth it. Thanks Jim! Wow! That's a huge difference! Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Wow! That's a huge difference! Well done! Thanks Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerman5K Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 I went to look and immediately got the door slammed by a drill down pop up. 🙄 Never again with them. 😡 I like TABCO panels. Gary's body man said he'd never seen better. 💡 If you are going the panel route, see this thread I posted this summer when I was doing body work. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Body-Panels-tp134284.html Long story short, I bought 2 arch panels (1 from LMC and 1 from Tabco). They both were identical and were stamped from Tabco. LMC sold them cheaper that Tabco direct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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