2 Body repair questions

[mat in tn]

my 2 cents. years ago, when I was only fixing up my old truck on the weekend as just taking care of it. I had one fender with a rust spot and the other where someone had backed into it. I was happy to find at the time that I could get a pr shipped to me instead of scrounging junkyards. when I got them and got them painted and put on, I was not as happy. maybe imports, maybe not. I don't remember paying as much attention way back then. but the fit is just not as good. I may be the only one who can pick out the differences, but I always see them. as a result, I scour junkyards and accept more repair challenges now. to each his own as we all must chose our own tolerance due to funds, skill, and weigh the importance of the results. the number one focus in restoring these trucks for me is rust remediation and prevention. the paint is only as good as what you put it on!

Great info, I appreciate it. Patch panels it is.

keep the patch as small as you can while getting all rust cut out. the wheel arch patch panels should come a bit longer than needed and be as tall as the style line and have square corners at the tops. some may just mount the panel and trace its outline and cut the quarter on that line. I do not! I cut out what is needed only. and then cut the patch to fit the puzzle. the old ford steel is better! and most importantly. a smaller patch adds less heat to the whole piece and deforms less and will resist flex stress bias more so it will show less wrinkle after a few thousand miles. yes, repairs show up after time. minimize this all that you can.

one thought about the rust through issue at the wheel arch. the folded seam always gets wet, dirty, and can hold grit, salt etc. it all can get worked into the seam. if water can get there than a seal theoretically can also. but I don't think it does on day one. spraying a sealer/primer mechanically in a timely and thorough manner is naturally hit or miss in a mass production setting, especially on a farm implement that you want the buyer to replace in a certain amount of time anyway. and every truck lives a different life and sees different care or neglect. and why does one side rust out while the other side does not?

do your best is the point. seal all that you can but if you cannot seal it perfectly keep a low point drain that can be washed out. and any seam that can wick up water can wick up a "water thin" paint or even fluid film can also. flood the seam from the inside out and don't worry about drips or runs. those can be sanded off once cured and then sealed easily.

 

[CDLong]

keep the patch as small as you can while getting all rust cut out. the wheel arch patch panels should come a bit longer than needed and be as tall as the style line and have square corners at the tops. some may just mount the panel and trace its outline and cut the quarter on that line. I do not! I cut out what is needed only. and then cut the patch to fit the puzzle. the old ford steel is better! and most importantly. a smaller patch adds less heat to the whole piece and deforms less and will resist flex stress bias more so it will show less wrinkle after a few thousand miles. yes, repairs show up after time. minimize this all that you can.

one thought about the rust through issue at the wheel arch. the folded seam always gets wet, dirty, and can hold grit, salt etc. it all can get worked into the seam. if water can get there than a seal theoretically can also. but I don't think it does on day one. spraying a sealer/primer mechanically in a timely and thorough manner is naturally hit or miss in a mass production setting, especially on a farm implement that you want the buyer to replace in a certain amount of time anyway. and every truck lives a different life and sees different care or neglect. and why does one side rust out while the other side does not?

do your best is the point. seal all that you can but if you cannot seal it perfectly keep a low point drain that can be washed out. and any seam that can wick up water can wick up a "water thin" paint or even fluid film can also. flood the seam from the inside out and don't worry about drips or runs. those can be sanded off once cured and then sealed easily.

Thanks Matt. The welder I found says he has done this typerepair on several Chevys and he gave me references. I'll check em out.

[CDLong]

keep the patch as small as you can while getting all rust cut out. the wheel arch patch panels should come a bit longer than needed and be as tall as the style line and have square corners at the tops. some may just mount the panel and trace its outline and cut the quarter on that line. I do not! I cut out what is needed only. and then cut the patch to fit the puzzle. the old ford steel is better! and most importantly. a smaller patch adds less heat to the whole piece and deforms less and will resist flex stress bias more so it will show less wrinkle after a few thousand miles. yes, repairs show up after time. minimize this all that you can.

one thought about the rust through issue at the wheel arch. the folded seam always gets wet, dirty, and can hold grit, salt etc. it all can get worked into the seam. if water can get there than a seal theoretically can also. but I don't think it does on day one. spraying a sealer/primer mechanically in a timely and thorough manner is naturally hit or miss in a mass production setting, especially on a farm implement that you want the buyer to replace in a certain amount of time anyway. and every truck lives a different life and sees different care or neglect. and why does one side rust out while the other side does not?

do your best is the point. seal all that you can but if you cannot seal it perfectly keep a low point drain that can be washed out. and any seam that can wick up water can wick up a "water thin" paint or even fluid film can also. flood the seam from the inside out and don't worry about drips or runs. those can be sanded off once cured and then sealed easily.

Thanks Matt. The welder I found says he has done this typerepair on several Chevys and he gave me references. I'll check em out.

So, I have been searchin' for repair panels. I have found them for the cab & bed but not for the front fenders. Anyone have a supplier? Both fenders need patch panels.

[ArdWrknTrk]

keep the patch as small as you can while getting all rust cut out. the wheel arch patch panels should come a bit longer than needed and be as tall as the style line and have square corners at the tops. some may just mount the panel and trace its outline and cut the quarter on that line. I do not! I cut out what is needed only. and then cut the patch to fit the puzzle. the old ford steel is better! and most importantly. a smaller patch adds less heat to the whole piece and deforms less and will resist flex stress bias more so it will show less wrinkle after a few thousand miles. yes, repairs show up after time. minimize this all that you can.

one thought about the rust through issue at the wheel arch. the folded seam always gets wet, dirty, and can hold grit, salt etc. it all can get worked into the seam. if water can get there than a seal theoretically can also. but I don't think it does on day one. spraying a sealer/primer mechanically in a timely and thorough manner is naturally hit or miss in a mass production setting, especially on a farm implement that you want the buyer to replace in a certain amount of time anyway. and every truck lives a different life and sees different care or neglect. and why does one side rust out while the other side does not?

do your best is the point. seal all that you can but if you cannot seal it perfectly keep a low point drain that can be washed out. and any seam that can wick up water can wick up a "water thin" paint or even fluid film can also. flood the seam from the inside out and don't worry about drips or runs. those can be sanded off once cured and then sealed easily.

Thanks Matt. The welder I found says he has done this typerepair on several Chevys and he gave me references. I'll check em out.

By minimizing the size of the patch you minimize the panel distortion.

I don't think anyone makes front wheel arches, just complete fenders

A good body man can fit some metal and make it almost good as new.

Then use a waterproof filler (I use West System epoxy) so it won't hold water, like Bondo does

That guy Jerry shows it done (on a Chevy pickup)

[mat in tn]

By minimizing the size of the patch you minimize the panel distortion.

I don't think anyone makes front wheel arches, just complete fenders

A good body man can fit some metal and make it almost good as new.

Then use a waterproof filler (I use West System epoxy) so it won't hold water, like Bondo does

That guy Jerry shows it done (on a Chevy pickup)

generally, I make patches from sheet for the front fenders if I don't have a panel to cut a patch from. a few times I have sourced dented fenders at a yard for use as a patch panel.

[CDLong]

By minimizing the size of the patch you minimize the panel distortion.

I don't think anyone makes front wheel arches, just complete fenders

A good body man can fit some metal and make it almost good as new.

Then use a waterproof filler (I use West System epoxy) so it won't hold water, like Bondo does

That guy Jerry shows it done (on a Chevy pickup)

Worse case, I'll et fenders and make patches.