CDLong Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 I intend to start fiberglass repairs now that it's warming up. I have done a lot on our boats thru the years. What should I do with the rust over the window? On the lower panel, I intend to cut the rust out witj a Dremel tool. I know I need to indent the edges and clean the inside of the repair areas to get a good bond. I have been told to use a rust preventative on the bare metal before repairing. An idea what I should use? Repair panela aren't an option at this time. I'm referring to this video: https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=best+material+to+repair+large+pickup+truck+rust+holes&&mid=836ADADBB7F62C9AA182836ADADBB7F62C9AA182&&FORM=VRDGAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters. If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill. Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Mort* for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. It will be cheaper than the fiberglass cloth and resin you need. Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's Lakeside Autobody channel. I can go find the specific video, if you can't ..... https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1986-Ford-Truck-Cab-Corner-LH/productinfo/34022/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters. If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill. Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Moet for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's I can go find the specific video if you can't ..... Use a wire wheel in a drill to remove the rust over the door? No sanding? Found this: SEM's Rust-Moet Got these, Lakeside Autobody channel videos. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Hole is in the lower panel near the rear bumper. Thanks for your help Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Over the windows you should get on a stepladder and carefully inspect the caulking in the rain gutters. If you see any hint of cracks or peeling scrape it out with a hook and use a wire wheel in a drill. Some kind of rust treatment (SEM's Rust-Moet for example). then re caulk the seams, A pillar to back window if need be. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Id suggest panel bonding adhesive, or even JB Weld, as shown by Jerry on YouTube's I can go find the specific video if you can't ..... Use a wire wheel in a drill to remove the rust over the door? No sanding? Found this: SEM's Rust-Moet Got these, Lakeside Autobody channel videos. The cab corner you can get a patch panel easily. Hole is in the lower panel near the rear bumper. Thanks for your help Jim. Ooop! Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱 I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back. It wasn't expensive. Hang on, BRB .. ........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Ooop! Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱 I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back. It wasn't expensive. Hang on, BRB .. ........ Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters! Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there..... The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow.... $4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Ooop! Sorry I'm on my phone and have been on shift since 7:00. 🥱 I replaced the rear bed corner on my truck a few years back. It wasn't expensive. Hang on, BRB .. ........ It's all good, I appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters! Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there..... The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow.... $4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148095/1279556.jpg Great parts site, Thanks Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Use a drill to remove the caulk in the gutters! Doesn't have to make Pebble Beach up in there..... The only difference is that '87 has rounded wheel wells, and you don't need that end anyhow.... $4x~ ... So I can't really do the math, but probably still cheaper than fiddling around trying to shape fiberglass https://www.partsgeek.com/4fgcg8j-ford-f150-pickup-bed-panel.html https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n148095/1279556.jpg Great parts site, Thanks Jim. Hope this helps. I'm sure you'll get other opinions. Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things. Jerry's old school 'git er done' type of body man. Lots of people criticize, but you can see the results. None of them are putting out videos showing their work. 🧐 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Hope this helps. I'm sure you'll get other opinions. Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things. I understand, I can be the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Hope this helps. I'm sure you'll get other opinions. Don't discount them either. I'm a weird bird, and have my own ways of doing things. I understand, I can be the same way. on the door edges the hard part is accessing the whole area that you need to. I am about to do one also, the chrome rain guard needs to be removed. sometimes it's the cause of the damage. the felt/rubber glass track needs to be removed, and if its a joining area the vent window also. wire brush all rusty spots paying attention to all paint edges and clean until you are creating a clean edge. treat with rust converter. let dry before sanding and skimming with filler. wire brushing smooths over the steel with a "galling" affect where sanding cuts. sanding is needed to give a bit of mechanical bond to the filler. this is the time to order new glass track gaskets also as they likely will not be worth putting back. many are so brittle that they come out one chip at a time like pulling wallpaper. but if you dont get a 360 seal on a rust spot you are inviting it back. the rear quarter lower edge is much more accessible. that place can be repaired easily with a small sheet of the same gauge sheet and a small wire feed welder. great place to practice. I too am old fashioned as I only repair steel with steel and fiberglass with fiberglass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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