BigBrother-84 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 It’s probably completely irrelevant and useless, but here is a picture of Big Brother’s clutch slave cylinder. F-350, 351W, T18. I know… Held in place with tie-wraps, cannot find a good clip. shows how he bleeds the slave cylinder. Interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 shows how he bleeds the slave cylinder. Interesting. So "big brother" uses a different (but similar) setup. You have the clips like the f-150 with the metal bracket that bolts to the bell housing,books identical to the video you posted. Mine is retained only by a clip, no bolts or bracket, other then the metal clip. Couple updates, rough eyeball measurements (can't fit the caliper without disassembly and decided I wanted to leave them still assembled) the two I have already replaced (original when I purchased the truck and first one I replaced) seem to be the 1.125" bore. I think the next step is to source a 1" or .750 slave from rock auto and see if they are actually different, or if it's a typo/ bad information. The exedy slave cylinder with the bleed nipple does not seem to be manufactured any longer. I cannot find an in stock listing for it, one Chinese website has a listing for $59, but it is a different part number and a "lead time 2-3 weeks" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Another though I just had, If the master cylinder is .880 bore, and the slave is 1.25" bore, that would mean that the slave would require 125% more fluid, assuming the same length stroke Basically, we know the master is as long as the threaded rod or shorter, and we know the slave is as long as the pushrod that goes from slave to clutch fork, minus what is proud of the slave cylinder. So, theoretically, the master would require 125% more travel stroke to completely extend the slave. As much as I hate measurements and maths, I think I need to start measuring the fully compressed and fully relaxed master and slave cylinders. I can then compare the ratio, and if it doesn't add up to 100%, you would never get full clutch fork actuation.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 It’s probably completely irrelevant and useless, but here is a picture of Big Brother’s clutch slave cylinder. F-350, 351W, T18. I know… Held in place with tie-wraps, cannot find a good clip. Why oh why did you cut the retaining strap? The slave end of the throwout arm only has to move 3/4 at most to fully dose gage the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Why oh why did you cut the retaining strap? Jim, I didn’t. As far as I can remember, Big Bro was as is. Maybe when my wife’s father was the owner? You are teaching me that this strap is supposed to stay there, complete. Listening at the guy’s video, I said to myself «hmm, ok, these little plastic chips were part of a strap in the past… maybe just there for the installation process.» So, I understand that this plastic strap is supposed to stay in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Why oh why did you cut the retaining strap? Jim, I didn’t. As far as I can remember, Big Bro was as is. Maybe when my wife’s father was the owner? You are teaching me that this strap is supposed to stay there, complete. Listening at the guy’s video, I said to myself «hmm, ok, these little plastic chips were part of a strap in the past… maybe just there for the installation process.» So, I understand that this plastic strap is supposed to stay in place? I am pretty sure it is mainly just to make installation easier, then I think the cup is so you don't have metal on metal squeeking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Why oh why did you cut the retaining strap? Jim, I didn’t. As far as I can remember, Big Bro was as is. Maybe when my wife’s father was the owner? You are teaching me that this strap is supposed to stay there, complete. Listening at the guy’s video, I said to myself «hmm, ok, these little plastic chips were part of a strap in the past… maybe just there for the installation process.» So, I understand that this plastic strap is supposed to stay in place? I'm one of those people that think ahead. I can guarantee that you are going to have a hell of a time getting it back together if there comes a day you want to R&R your existing slave (to install the proper clip on it, perhaps?) It's simple enough to push the throwout arm forward, and slip the little tabs out of the notches in the frame. It's plastic, and they will hang out forever, without causing any problems., but remain, for you to use them to hold the spring loaded piston in the slave come your next clutch change. Yes, I do believe the instructions tell to just step on the clutch and break the straps. I'm logical, and my sense of how things fit together makes me acutely aware of why it comes that way to begin with and the struggle id have if I'd actually followed the instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 I am pretty sure it is mainly just to make installation easier, then I think the cup is so you don't have metal on metal squeeking. You are technically correct . The best kind* of correct.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 You are technically correct . The best kind* of correct.... Ok thanks, now it’s clear for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Bumping this up. I lucked out on a local gig, they had me use their truck for a month or two, so mine ended up on the back burner. Unfortunately I seem to have run them out of work for now, so I want to get my truck back up and going for another Oregon adventure. I never did get the hydraulics to operate properly, I have tried every bleeding procedure I could find, but I am going to go through and order the smaller bore slave cylinder. My clutch fork breaking seems to be a deal breaker, it is a 83-86 6.9 and 85-86 460 "over 8500gvwr" t-19 only part apparently. I have been unable to source one, made a post on the wanted section. If I can't get one, I can pull a bellhousing from a t-18 and run the setup like big brother has pictured, I just don't want to spend $250 on a bellhousing or spend a full day on my back at a u-pull it yard and run a different setup over a discontinued clutch fork. So if anyone has a t-19 clutch fork laying around, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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