Haystack Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Thank you, I have tried various parts numbers (it's nice to know I have the correct ones), but none of them have pulled up anything on eBay. I am sure I have searched the same ones previously, and no dice. Also, both of the links that you show, are out of stock, and the za-126, I called two different "OEM suppliers". One said the za-124 (the 87 zf fork) was a direct replacement, the other said that the za-126 was discontinued. I also called my local "heavy duty truck center" Ford center, where I used to take my dump truck back in the day, and the guy laughed at me, and said I would never find one in stock for a truck over 10 years old. He then gave me a list of random first dealerships who "may have old stock", one if which was in Tennessee, and none of them had any either. AutoZone, O'Reilly's and Napa all show the za-124 zf style clutch fork as a "1983-1997" part direct replacement. So did car quest and the commercial Napa when searching by VIN number. I don't think that the manufacturers realize that the 83-87 t-19 specific fork is unavailable and believe that the newer zfs style clutch fork will work. My plan if I didn't find the clutch fork was to steal that bellhousing and clutch fork for the 85 460 4wd if I couldn't find the proper clutch fork, but now that this semi local guy got back to me with a complete t-19, that is the way I am going to go. Definitely not the cheapest option, bur I don't mind spare parts. Here are the three styles of clutch forks. As you can see, it is angled differently and has a cut out for bellhousing clearance for the t-19 fork. Last image shows the forks, zf top, t-19 middle, and t-18 bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Here are the three styles of clutch forks. As you can see, it is angled differently and has a cut out for bellhousing clearance for the t-19 fork. Last image shows the forks, zf top, t-19 middle, and t-18 bottom. Now for my actual issue... Put the clutch fork in, it fits, appears to be the right part. Now I need to figure out the hydraulics. The greedy style slave with the bleeder nipple has suddenly become available when ordered for a 5.8 t-18 transmission. No information on bore size. However, looking at the diagrams Obviously I have the lower 420/460 setup, not the 5.8 setup at the top. Now, if I run the greedy style slave, it does not use the metal clip? The part number is shown as the same slave in the Ford diagram, but there are several differences, and I do not have any plastic clip, and I am not sure where it could even go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Now for my actual issue... Put the clutch fork in, it fits, appears to be the right part. Now I need to figure out the hydraulics. The greedy style slave with the bleeder nipple has suddenly become available when ordered for a 5.8 t-18 transmission. No information on bore size. However, looking at the diagrams Obviously I have the lower 420/460 setup, not the 5.8 setup at the top. Now, if I run the greedy style slave, it does not use the metal clip? The part number is shown as the same slave in the Ford diagram, but there are several differences, and I do not have any plastic clip, and I am not sure where it could even go? That's the one I use. (both T-19 & Zf5) 7A603 is just a plastic filler bushing. You use your existing metal clip, as shown for IDI & 460 Edit: I have that slave on my truck right now. If it weren't pouring I'd go outside and take a picture..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Last image shows the forks, zf top, t-19 middle, and t-18 bottom. The T-19 & T-18 use the SAME transmission 'butterfly" pattern, but T-18 is a Windsor block side bell while the T-19 only came behind IDI & 460's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Last image shows the forks, zf top, t-19 middle, and t-18 bottom. The T-19 & T-18 use the SAME transmission 'butterfly" pattern, but T-18 is a Windsor block side bell while the T-19 only came behind IDI & 460's Here's the bellhousing page from the parts book. You're looking at '84 on, as that's when hydraulic clutches took over from mechanical Z-bar design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 That's the one I use. (both T-19 & Zf5) 7A603 is just a plastic filler bushing. You use your existing metal clip, as shown for IDI & 460 Edit: I have that slave on my truck right now. If it weren't pouring I'd go outside and take a picture..... No more hospital? Knowing the slave is the same (or at least compatible l) between zf and t-19 bellhousing.... I may just order a pre bled setup for a newer truck, and just be done with it once and for all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 No more hospital? Knowing the slave is the same (or at least compatible l) between zf and t-19 bellhousing.... I may just order a pre bled setup for a newer truck, and just be done with it once and for all... Nevermind, looks like all the pre bled ones are from 92 and newer and the master cylinder mount is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Nevermind, looks like all the pre bled ones are from 92 and newer and the master cylinder mount is different. The mounting holes are diagonal, to help with firewall tearing, and the clutch safety mounts on the pushrod. This doesn't preclude you from using one, if you're willing to drill the holes, and use the existing pedal block safety (not rewiring) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted June 5 Author Share Posted June 5 I am ready to burn this truck to the ground. 3 months I've been messing with it on and off as I have had time. I have spent over $1k on parts, and still can't get anything to work. I am 100% sure it is a hydraulic issue, and I think there must still be air in the lines..I am at my breaking point. I ordered the nipple style slave cylinder, I bought a power bleeder, I reverse bled it, I bench bled it, I gravity bleed it. I'd bleed it in a bath full of brake fluid if I thought it would work. I am getting nowhere. I have taken the truck to 9 different shops, everyone one has either refused to work on it, or broken something that was already working. I have rebuilt the bushings in the pedal, I have replaced the arm on the end of the pedal shaft, I have even bought another transmission and swapped that in, just to make sure there wasn't something wrong with the other transmission. No matter what I do, I never get more then about half solid pedal and the pedal has never returned fully. Today, I spent 5 hours bench bleeding. I got a 5 gallon bucket, a giant c-clamp, submerged the line until no bubbles came out. I then connected it to the master cylinder and the slave. I bench bled it until my hands litterly started bleeding, and nothing is working. This isn't rocket science, I know that. But I am about ready to give up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 I am ready to burn this truck to the ground. 3 months I've been messing with it on and off as I have had time. I have spent over $1k on parts, and still can't get anything to work. I am 100% sure it is a hydraulic issue, and I think there must still be air in the lines..I am at my breaking point. I ordered the nipple style slave cylinder, I bought a power bleeder, I reverse bled it, I bench bled it, I gravity bleed it. I'd bleed it in a bath full of brake fluid if I thought it would work. I am getting nowhere. I have taken the truck to 9 different shops, everyone one has either refused to work on it, or broken something that was already working. I have rebuilt the bushings in the pedal, I have replaced the arm on the end of the pedal shaft, I have even bought another transmission and swapped that in, just to make sure there wasn't something wrong with the other transmission. No matter what I do, I never get more then about half solid pedal and the pedal has never returned fully. Today, I spent 5 hours bench bleeding. I got a 5 gallon bucket, a giant c-clamp, submerged the line until no bubbles came out. I then connected it to the master cylinder and the slave. I bench bled it until my hands litterly started bleeding, and nothing is working. This isn't rocket science, I know that. But I am about ready to give up. I wish I was there to help! With my nipple bleeder slave I just run a clear hose up into the master reservoir and pump the fluid in a circle. Something is definitely going on if you can't get the over-center spring to bring the pedal back to the rubber stop with authority. It's extremely difficult to diagnose, and get your point across over the Internet, but I've got to say -like you- I'm about out of fresh ideas. You've already gone way farther than I've ever had to. Usually you get it 60-65% and drive it, it fixes itself in just a mile or 2. The dealer service bay would only install a complete, pre bled system (slave, line & master) We used to joke that the factory assembled these in a swimming pool of brake fluid. Have you tried a sealed, complete unit yet? I'm sorry. 🙁 I'm usually on point with advice, but it seems you're doing EVERYTHING right and still can't get positive results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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