ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Very cool. A cheap source of these orifices would be flux core welding contact tips and a rubber hose on either side. I know there's 0.025, 0.030 for sure, Not sure about 0.020 and 0.015. I don't believe a 0.025 tip would have a 0.025 opening though. There should be tolerance built in so its probably a larger opening. https://www.harborfreight.com/0025-in-mig-welding-contact-tips-10-pack-63796.html Most motorcycle jets are expressed in 1/100mm So a 35 jet is close to 0.014" >.35 x 0.040(ish)= 0.014...< Bike jets are everywhere Carburetor Main Nozzles,Carburetor Main Jets Set,25pcs Main Jet Carburetor Carb Main Jet Kit 55?115 M5 Replacement for Dellorto Carburetor PHBG https://a.co/d/4b8MvXb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Most motorcycle jets are expressed in 1/100mm So a 35 jet is close to 0.014" >.35 x 0.040(ish)= 0.014... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Most motorcycle jets are expressed in 1/100mm So a 35 jet is close to 0.014" >.35 x 0.040(ish)= 0.014... But agree these are the best sources. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 While I’m waiting on the water pump I figured I would replace 2 of the long bolts with new grade 8 bolts. Those 2 bolts has signs of plastic deformation about 1 inch in from the head (its hard to see in the pic but there is thinning). The pitting doesn’t bother me as much as the deformation. The cleanest bolt will be the one to enter the water port. I try to always do the right thing for the next guy that has to work on it, hoping I will see the same in return … knock on wood I haven’t had to weld a nut to too many studs down here in TX. I don't think it's plastic deformation , I think it's the ravages of corrosion. Just last week I was discussing how much even a grade "butter" piece or 3/8 threaded rod was rated for. There's just no way any of these things are seeing that tension at 40 #' My ENTIRE engine is held together with the cheapest stainless fasteners I could find, and none of them are like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I don't think it's plastic deformation , I think it's the ravages of corrosion. Just last week I was discussing how much even a grade "butter" piece or 3/8 threaded rod was rated for. There's just no way any of these things are seeing that tension at 40 #' My ENTIRE engine is held together with the cheapest stainless fasteners I could find, and none of them are like that. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart https://www.nfgab.com/technology-quality/technical-pages/tensile-strength/unc-threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 I don't think it's plastic deformation , I think it's the ravages of corrosion. Just last week I was discussing how much even a grade "butter" piece or 3/8 threaded rod was rated for. There's just no way any of these things are seeing that tension at 40 #' My ENTIRE engine is held together with the cheapest stainless fasteners I could find, and none of them are like that. That 5/16 bolt in the pic is clean else-where.. just that one thin spot. It could be corrosion but it could also be a case of "I have a leak I'm going to torque things until it doesn't leak". After what I saw in the water pump, paranoia has kicked in. With it being thinner, and if it is corrosion, that is a weak point. Agree. Grade 8 is overkill- price delta was probably $1 per bolt so why not :) Torque spec is only 15-21 ft lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I tried to look up charts, there is no standard Jet size anywhere But agree these are the best sources. I'm not sure what you mean "standard jet sizes" I used to use Sudco for Mikuni & Kehin. https://www.sudco.com/carburetors.html Euro Moto for Bing & Dellorto. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2249.htm Now you can get Chinese garbage at your door by 6am from the jungle/river market.... It's all the same. A simple hole in a piece of brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 That 5/16 bolt in the pic is clean else-where.. just that one thin spot. It could be corrosion but it could also be a case of "I have a leak I'm going to torque things until it doesn't leak". After what I saw in the water pump, paranoia has kicked in. With it being thinner, and if it is corrosion, that is a weak point. Agree. Grade 8 is overkill- price delta was probably $1 per bolt so why not :) Torque spec is only 15-21 ft lbs. Look at the chart 5/16_18 = 33.8mm x 393Nm/mm =133000 Nm for gr5 /1.356 = 9,808 pounds EACH, tension minimum UTS. You could literally hang your entire truck from a tree by one of those 5/16 grade 5 bolts. And there are like seven of them in a water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Look at the chart 5/16_18 = 33.8mm x 393Nm/mm =133000 Nm for gr5 /1.356 = 9,808 pounds EACH, tension minimum UTS. You could literally hang your entire truck from a tree by one of those 5/16 grade 5 bolts. And there are like seven of them in a water pump. I'm not worried about the holding power, just the ability to withstand torsional shear stresses while removing after years of use. I'm going to use PST per your recommendation on a couple of those bolts so we should be good. I know a lot of people who break these bolts while removing, they are clearly exceeding grade 5 shear stress limits. I have my method and knock on wood I always get them out intact, even exhaust bolts most of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I'm not worried about the holding power, just the ability to withstand torsional shear stresses while removing after years of use. I'm going to use PST per your recommendation on a couple of those bolts so we should be good. I know a lot of people who break these bolts while removing, they are clearly exceeding grade 5 shear stress limits. I have my method and knock on wood I always get them out intact, even exhaust bolts most of the time. Edit: it's not shear. It's torsion.... Those bolts are corroded AND seized. Corrosion provides beach head nucleation sites for cracks. You're going to put Teflon on and in the threaded holes. This will seal water in the pump where it belongs. I used stainless because it doesn't corrode and seize in the threads,and the shanks CAN'T corrode when there's a less noble metal like aluminum or iron available. They come out much smoother when the shanks are smooth as well.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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