460 Straight up Timing Chain upgrade

[ratdude747]

Completed the timing chain/water pump install

View with the old chain off

Comparing the old and new cam sprocket, the old one had a protrusion to where a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric can be installed properly. I could not reuse the old eccentric as-is because the outer ring would not spin freely since the new cam sprocket has a flat surface. A new 1 piece fuel pump eccentric is ridiculously expensive unless you went with a Chinese one which I didn't want to and also the dowel pins needed changing out etc.. Just adds complexity for something I have Zero plans to use. So this will be a strictly electric only 460. I will stamp "ONLY ELECTRIC" on the fuel pump blocking cover.

New chain installed dot to dot-keyway. Cam sprocket retaining bolt torqued to 45 ft lbs.

Pic below shown without the oil slinger. I saw somewhere random that the oil slinger didn't need to be installed for double rollers and they were only meant for nylon gears, but I installed it anyway.

A nice tip I got from the factory manual is to install the counterweight before torquing the timing cover bolts any. This will ensure proper centering inside the front seal. I have observed front seal leaks on Bullnose 460s. They sell a sleeve kit to fix that but i'm hoping I won't need it.

I gave the water pump a coat of engine primer. I've been told a painted water pump adds roughly 50hp

But really, I am tired of looking at water pumps with surface rust.

Other notes -- only 3 bolts truly need thread sealant, 1 long bolt that goes through the water port, one long bolt that goes into the intake manifold and one small water pump bolt that goes into the timing cover.

Agreed on painting cast iron water pumps. Pretty sure I painted the one I put on mine when I rebuilt the engine. I also was using an aftermarket iron water neck, which I also painted (stock is Al, but I broke mine and the aftermarket Al one wouldn't seal).

[ArdWrknTrk]

Agreed on painting cast iron water pumps. Pretty sure I painted the one I put on mine when I rebuilt the engine. I also was using an aftermarket iron water neck, which I also painted (stock is Al, but I broke mine and the aftermarket Al one wouldn't seal).

Glypthal is TWTG here....😉

[viven44]

That's a very nice install!

I'm trying to understand what's different between the 9-1122 that I used to use (which fit my pump eccentric fine) and the set you've used.

I could see the C-3207 not having provision, given that it's a chain for EFI trucks, but the top gears look the same to me.

Maybe the photos I find online are "representative" and not real?

This circles back to Gary's AI discussion, where nothing is to be believed....

I see you've found a hose barb for your water pump.

Does this mean you can use an automotive alternator bracket and adjuster in the 70's Bronco frame?

Thanks! I hadn't considered 9-1122, but from what I can tell it has a built-in spacer to space out the inner eccentric. It is out of stock though.

I reused the barb from the old water pump, and I have all the brackets from the 1986 pickup for alternator/PS/AC that should hopefully fit!!

I always worry about the cam bolt. I've typically never used any threadlocker because the factory manuals don't ask for it. I try to stick as close to factory instructions as possible as there must be a reason for it (or at least a reason why its redundant). I just make sure the threads are oily (just like they came out) and torque the bolt to spec (triple checked). I am always nervous on these old cams because there is only 1 bolt and a non-structural locating dowel. I understant it is the friction that holds things together, so the torque achieved is critical as it will cause bolt stretching, etc etc. I worry about threadlocker and torque adjustment with use of it. I am not enough of an expert of any of this so I just blindly follow instructions when it comes to bolts :) :)

 

[viven44]

You just described my 1986 factory system. The only changes have been, changed front pipes to set from a 1990 to match the heads and manifolds, replace the extension pipes (168" wheelbase) with a set to connect from the catalyst inlet flange (no cat) to the muffler inlet. Tailpipe screens were deleted in 1994. Darth still has his factory muffler and tailpipe.

I was slightly off. I had assumed it was 2-1/4 because my other bullnose 460 has 2-1/4 single pipe exhaust which I always thought was under sized.

I went and looked at the donor truck that came with a factory 2-1/2 dual setup that runs into a catalytic converter and then a single 3” exhaust. I could reuse a portion of it (it won't clear the skid plate and transmission subframe) but I’m planning to move this factory setup into my other 460 truck as it’s a perfect bolt-on.

[viven44]

Agreed on painting cast iron water pumps. Pretty sure I painted the one I put on mine when I rebuilt the engine. I also was using an aftermarket iron water neck, which I also painted (stock is Al, but I broke mine and the aftermarket Al one wouldn't seal).

Thankfully the water neck on this one has a nice patina that matches the intake. The upper hose will cover up the part with surface rust.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks! I hadn't considered 9-1122, but from what I can tell it has a built-in spacer to space out the inner eccentric. It is out of stock though.

I reused the barb from the old water pump, and I have all the brackets from the 1986 pickup for alternator/PS/AC that should hopefully fit!!

I always worry about the cam bolt. I've typically never used any threadlocker because the factory manuals don't ask for it. I try to stick as close to factory instructions as possible as there must be a reason for it (or at least a reason why its redundant). I just make sure the threads are oily (just like they came out) and torque the bolt to spec (triple checked). I am always nervous on these old cams because there is only 1 bolt and a non-structural locating dowel. I understant it is the friction that holds things together, so the torque achieved is critical as it will cause bolt stretching, etc etc. I worry about threadlocker and torque adjustment with use of it. I am not enough of an expert of any of this so I just blindly follow instructions when it comes to bolts :) :)

It's been NLA for 10 years or more...

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I reused the barb from the old water pump, and I have all the brackets from the 1986 pickup for alternator/PS/AC that should hopefully fit!!

The timing chain photos I see online are all the same.

The '86 had a tube that came out of the water pump and had a tab that bolted to the front of the ps head.

The heater hose came from there. (go look at the diagrams)

Somehow the PO made it work. But I've used an L&L bracket to get rid of the A.I.R. pumps.

I cannot get a '70's 429 bracket to fit a 1980's 4x4 truck but it might work with your Bronco.

[Gary Lewis]

Today’s vacuum. Guess there is a slight leak as we’ve dropped maybe 5” in a couple of days. 😎

Started to move the dizzy, but then I thought I ought to capture this. I pumped it up to 22" of vacuum on Feb 22nd and today, 8 days later, it is on 14". Let me do the math ... I think we have a reject here.

[viven44]

Started to move the dizzy, but then I thought I ought to capture this. I pumped it up to 22" of vacuum on Feb 22nd and today, 8 days later, it is on 14". Let me do the math ... I think we have a reject here.

That holds better vacuum than some AC compressors I've dealt with